setting trusses with only 2?

Glenn9643 · Mar 12, 2004

Chad,

You said "i then will nail the facia board to the sticking out purlins and then start the roof metal even with the facia board". Are you planning to nail this facia board into the end grain of your purlin? You should be aware that there is very little holding strength nailing into end grain. I've always made "show-rafters" from a 2x4 and put them underneath the purlin edge and attached with screws (my preference). This piece will reach from the peak of the roof to the dripline at the edge and angles at the peak must be cut to match for looks. Metal roofing dealers usually offer flashing patterns in 10 to 12' lengths. Around here you can get this flashing to go in the gables that will cover most of the show-rafter and protect it from the elements.
I usually nail a 2x4 across the dripline of the trusses the length of the building and when I put down my first run of purlin I let it cover this 2x4 edge. If you plan to enclose the soffits let this 2x4 drop down 1/4" or so below the truss menbers. Then nail this run of purlin into the trusses as well as into the 2x4. I realize that I started out saying that there was little strength by nailing into the end grain but in this case you've also got nails from the purlin from above.

mopower440 · Mar 12, 2004

Glenn, let me tell you what i got so far..and remember, im going by this pole barn book i have, did it just like it says to, on the dripline, or truss tails, it is 3 1/2" obviously because the trusses are made from 2x4's, the book says to nail the eave purlins to the truss tails 2" up, that way you have 1 1/2" sticking up, then measure 24" up and start your normal perlins layed flat, wich layed flat would also be 1 1/2", so thats how i did it, he shows how to enclose them using the soffits, but he does not show how to do gable end overhangs, so anyways, i did mine already just the way he showed, so its too late to do it like you describe, but on the gables, i let the purlins stick out 10 1/2" to do an overhang, so, according to how i already have the eaves done, how do you think i need to do the facia board and stuff for the gable end overhangs?

Glenn9643 · Mar 13, 2004

I would do it as I described in the above post and since the purlins are cut at 10-1/2" overhang that's what the overhang would be. It's your building and you might find a better way or one that you like better.
Disregard the last paragraph in my previous post, as you already have dealt with this issue. If I understand your post correctly, your first row of purlin is on edge nailed into the tails of the trusses? Personally I like to have more width to put the screws into than 1-1/2"; that'll be easy to miss.
You'd better hurry and finish up because spring's almost here and you'll want to be on the tractor!

mopower440 · Mar 13, 2004

Glenn, you are correct, the first row of purlins is on edge and nailed into the truss tails, in my book, he shows how to take the soffit and nail it to the last row of purlins and it fully encloses the purlins and truss tails where you cant see any of it if you stand next to the building under the overhang, i want to fully enclose the gable overhangs also, so is it still ok to do it the way you describe above where you screw the show rafter to the BOTTOMS of the purlins? if so, when i start my metal roofing, do i let it overhang the show rafter at all or start it even with it? I know as far as the eaves, he has the metal roofing overhganging the soffit by about 2", but im not sure about the gables though..? I really wish he would have covered that in the book.

Glenn9643 · Mar 14, 2004

If I was planning to enclose the gable overhang I would do it as I said above, but cut a dado in the show rafter to accept the plywood or whatever panels you're using to enclose it. You'll also need to nail a 2x2 strip on the outside of the gable wall to nail the panels to. Get the picture?? Hope so.
I generally let the metal overhang about an inch, more or less, at the gables. Then I use gable edge flashing (may not be the correct name) that is bent on a "90" to keep weather off the show rafter. The side that's on the roof is wide enough to go over one of the ridges in the roof metal to keep water out.
Before you start putting up your metal go back and read those threads again telling you how to square it. If you try to start it based on your gable edges you'll have problems.

mopower440 · Mar 14, 2004

in this book i have, on the eave overhangs, he is showing this soffit that actually covers the last purlins and truss tails, then bends at around the edge like this 'L' and nails to the top plate, in other words, the metal soffit encloses everything underneath and the purlin, meaning, it starts right beneath the metal roofing, so there is no wood whatsoever showing, now, keep in mind i have never dealt with this stuff before, so i dont know whats available, but if the stuff is available, i would like to do the gable overhangs the same way, meaning, the soffit actually covers the facia board and then does a 'L' and nails to the wall, do you see what im trying to say? wich i could scan these pics from the book on here..do you know if i can indeed do it the way im describing?

Glenn9643 · Mar 14, 2004

I understand what you're saying. I would check with my metal supplier to be sure they have it available before I planned on using it. I've seen similar on metal buildings that had very little or no overhang at the eaves. Depending on your overhang it might be a problem. If the supplier has what you want for the eaves he'll probably have what you need for the gable ends. Some metal roofing suppliers will bend the flashing to your specifications in 10' lengths, so you might be able to go that route.

mopower440 · Mar 15, 2004

well, after a much discouraging weekend and studying the gable overhang deal, as bad as i hate to do it, i think im going to have to forget about the gable overhangs and cut the purlins off, and i hate it..heres whats up, i found that soffit metal i was looking for, its a one piece fascia and soffit, it will work perfect for the eaves, it starts at the metal roofing and covers the whole fascia board, then bends in and covers for a 1' overhang, covers the bottoms of the trusses, then bends down about 2" and nails to the top plate or truss support, whatever you like to call them..lol..ok, the part that covers the fascia is 5 1/2", good for the eaves but not for the gable because with a 2x4 or 2x6 fascia on the gables and using this same one piece fascia/soffit metal, the fascia cover is 5 1/2" and then bends in, there will be nothing to nail it to because the truss is only 3 1/2" plus the thickness of the purlin is 1 1/2", so there's nothing to nail the soffit part to unless i just screw it to the outside of the metal sheathing, but its supposed to be behind it, now if the top chord of the truss would have been 2x6 instead of 2x4, there would have been enough wood to screw the soffit part to, but theres not, this sucks, i really wanted a gable overhang, but...

rambler · Mar 15, 2004

So, add a 2x4 nailer along each end? 4 2x4's arent that expensive....

--->Paul

mopower440 · Mar 15, 2004

how would i attach the 2x4 nailers? like i said, if the top chord of the trusses were 2x6, they would be enough wood to attach the soffit to, so you are saying to use 2x4 nailers, they would have to go below the top chord of the truss, almost like widening the top chord, how? only way i know to make it work would be to put up the metal siding first, securing the siding to the top chord of the truss like it would be with no overhang, and then screwing the metal soffit straight to the metal siding..but that would look corny as heck, the soffit is supposed to be screwed to the wood underneath and then the metal siding covering it..boy oh boy, this is getting frusterating..lol..