Setting Up 60 inch MMM BX2200

NY_Yankees_Fan · May 8, 2003

What procedure did you use to get your 60 inch MMM on your BX2200 to match the set up in the manual? I am not sure what to measure first and what to move so I do not move one setting and throw another out of whack. It looks like the left front is lower then the rest of the deck, causing a scalp on the left side. I want to make sure everything is level and meets the manual, but do not want to make a tons of mistakes. SOOOOO folks who did this, what did you do and how and what would you change, if you did it again?? Manual as usual is not very clear, well at least not to me. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Thanks

Anonymous Poster · May 8, 2003

My deck was WAY out of adjustment when I received the tractor. I just followed the adjustment procedure in the manual and it cuts perfectly now. The trickiest part was measuring the height of the blade from the floor; you can't see or measure under the deck to measure accurately. I cut a block of soft pine wood and pushed the blade into the block to make a mark. Then I pulled the block out and measured distance from the mark to the end of the block. Worked fine for me. I read in another thread that a guy used a bolt and nut to make the measurement. I think I will use the bolt technique next time I adjust my mower.

I am very please with the quality of cut from my 60 inch mmm. My property is on a hillside and I was woried that I would get an uneven cut. Not the case!

John

surfran · May 8, 2003

Tom,

I couldn't agree with you more about the manual being difficult to understand. I can tell you I did a couple of them more than once and in the end, I got the blades parallel and the height of them to agree with the deck setting knob, but I did not get the 4 anti-scalp wheels to all be the same distance from the ground. My front left (while in seat) is about a 1/4" higher that the other 3. I also ended up with my front parallel linkage about 1/4" lower on the left to get the blades parallel.

I decided after much adjustment and re-adjustment that I would just concentrate on the blades being parallel at the 2" setting on the control knob as that is where I figured I would do most of my mowing.

By the way, the 2" is a pain in the @!! to measure on the left side without the chute to lift up. I ended up breaking a small ruler off so I could fit it under and then could still barely see the measurement for the back of the blade.

You would think that you could do all your measuring from the deck anti-scalp wheels, but apparently they aren't necessarily set the same (I was clued into this by another thread which is how I started looking at it in the first place).

OK what would I do different.............My first recommendation would be to check the blades front/back and side/side at the 2" like discussed in the book to see if the dealer set it up. It didn't seem that they had with mine at first, but I realized that they also had the 1/4" difference in my parallel linkage (which of course I started out by putting back when following the manual) so it did appear that they at least went through a set up. Since mine shipped from NC to NY it could have very well been knocked out of whack.

Anyhow, if the blades are parallel both front/rear and side/side AND you want this at 2", then I say LEAVE IT!!!

If not, then decide at what height you think you will do your mowing and set up the deck blades for parallel to that height.

I would concentrate on the adjustments required to get the blades to the desired spot not any other ones such as the front parallel bracket or the lift stops (as these ended up being about 1mm on right side and 5 mm on left for me).

Depending on how much it is out of whack in which direction, depends on which adjustments to do first. Side to Side is the rear links and front parallel. Front to back and blade height vs. knob position is the front parallel and the rear lift adjustment.

I ended up spending about 3 hours because I tried really hard to make the front right wheel even with the rest and just couldn't do it, so finally I just ended up going to making sure the blades are parallel.

Well that is my story, I don't know if others have had this much fun, but I know I sure did. Good thing is I did mow this past weekend finally and it did provide an apparent even cut for my first mowing. Grass is still kinda ratty here at the house still, so I am not entirely sure yet. I will know better this weekend when I take it to my lake property where the grass is thick and high already.....should give her a good test including the grass catcher. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good Luck,

Anonymous Poster · May 8, 2003

Agreed. I spent some time trying to get the left rear link to match the right so the deck wouldn't bang against the left upper stop. No joy, though. I ended using some scrap from the bandsaw bin to use as a height marker. 'Tis a pain to set up the first time (48MM, A=Y-X, HUH?????) but the results are nice once its done /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif.
DaveL

sandyc · May 8, 2003

Reaching under the left side of the deck and using a nut and bolt to get the measurement is a fantastic idea! At my age I am affraid I will forget the tip before I set up my blade. Maybe I'll write it on the housing using a marker....hey once you get to 60 you got to use all the tricks there are!

NY_Yankees_Fan · May 9, 2003

Surfran

Thanks for the tips, I have a few questions.

On page 10 adjusting the parallel linkage

It says adjust L so A is 0-3/16 A=Y-X

What is the measurement of L? Are they to be the same? Not sure where to measure, the length of L or X & Y?

Adjusting the Mower Links

No 5 adjust the right side links with double nuts so that the clearance is from 1-2 mm

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN????????????

Where is the clearance measured? Is it in figure G-5623A? Between 1 &2? When do you measure when the deck is down or up?

This manual is clear as mud /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

surfran · May 9, 2003

(
On page 10 adjusting the parallel linkage

It says adjust L so A is 0-3/16 A=Y-X

What is the measurement of L? Are they to be the same? Not sure where to measure, the length of L or X & Y? )

I cannot remember exactly about this one, so I will have to wait until I can look at the manual again to be sure, but I think it is as follows.

Measure front and back of the blade and adjust the parallel linkage nuts until the difference is less than 3/16"

( Adjusting the Mower Links

No 5 adjust the right side links with double nuts so that the clearance is from 1-2 mm

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN????????????

Where is the clearance measured? Is it in figure G-5623A? Between 1 &2? When do you measure when the deck is down or up?

This manual is clear as mud /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif )

This refers to the measurement between the deck stops and the lift arms of the deck. It is designated by a small cursive L in the picture. The adjustment is from the rear of the unit behind the right rear tire. You will see a rod with two nuts that is hooked to the 3-pt lift arms on the lower side of a pivot point (this is why the deck and 3-pt operate together unless deck is pinned up). Anyhow, you use this adjustment to raise or lower the lift of the mower deck so that it achieves maximum height (allowing you to pin in place I guess).

You measure this on both sides of the unit and they should be within 3/16" (5mm). As noted above, my left side was 3/16" down and right was 1 mm when I finished.

Good luck, and in my mind it is more important the get the blades parallel at the height you expect to mow that it is to try and make the others perfect (of course perfect was my initial goal, but after failiing misserably and cussing a lot I settled for functional). I have decided that is why they have the 3/16" tolerances........

Anonymous Poster · May 9, 2003

Here is my understanding of the parallel linkage adjustment:

The purpose is to level the deck from front to rear. To do this set the height control to 2; position the right blade so that it is parallel to the tractor frame. Measure the distance from the rear blade tip to the floor (Y) and the distance of the front blade tip to the floor (X). Subtract Y from X. If the difference is more than 3/16 inch, adjust the nuts on the front linkage until the front to back level is within spec. By adjusting the nuts you are increasing or decreasing the effective length of the linkage (L) which controls the front to back level of the deck.

The front to back and side-to-side level was way out on my deck. After I made the side-to-side adjustment I went back and re-checked the parallel linkage adjustment. It was still in adjustment, it did not change.

John