"Sharpened" the bush hog blades

   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #31  
I would never even think about crawling underneath to sharpen or remove blades.

I leave the cutter on the ground, approach it at right angles, chain the far side to the loader bucket, and raise and tilt it a little past vertical. I can then work on it standing up, with easy access. I double chain it for security and have it leaning a little past the vertical balance point so it would tend to fall away from me if it managed to come loose.

Mine has the gearbox vent on the side. I lift it so that side is on top when I stand it up.

Bruce
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I've no rotator cuff in my right shoulder. Cannot lift very high. Could not work an angle grinder working underneath the tractor and certainly cannot do it without going underneath (with jack stands in back and floor jack under the front).

Just safer and easier to remove the blades and to use the bench grinder. Loosening and torquing with 6 foot breaker bar works fine.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #33  
Why does it matter what manufacturers use? The poster is doing this at home. I still use my bench grinder and it works fine.


There's still people that pick cotton by hand too.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #34  
Given the harsh environment of the blade bolts, this is a good example where the application of anti-seize or CorrosionX during assembly has been especially beneficial.

Had my wife help me with some particular hard to remove factory installed blade bolts from a newer bush hog. 1” IR impact wrench from her under the Christmas tree that year. Use a 1/2” pneumatic hose just for that tool. Something going to move when you pull the trigger, the fastener or you.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #35  
I use anti seize on my cutter bolts. Have no problem taking them off with my HF impact.
To me its easier to take them off and sharpen.
Lots of rocks here also.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #36  
Don't have an angle grinder and would not want to be underneath there trying to hold one of those up to grind the blades.
You NEED to get an angle grinder. They are indispendable around here.

Oxy/acetylene torch will help loosen stuck bolts very well, if you insist on taking 'em off.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #37  
You must have better luck with HF angle grinders that I do. I can 'find the smoke' in them real quick. Never had one last more than 10 minutes and they all stink when they die. Smell like smoldering rice paper...lol
I've had good luck with the HF ones. My "go-to" one is an "Industrial" Black & Decker, but the HF ones hold up well as back ups and I keep one loaded with a wire brush wheel.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #38  
I've had good luck with the HF ones. My "go-to" one is an "Industrial" Black & Decker, but the HF ones hold up well as back ups and I keep one loaded with a wire brush wheel.
I have a friend who is a professional welder/fabricator. He buys the HF angle grinders. He says they last half as long as the better brands, but are only 25% of the cost so he’s ahead. He keeps a few backups. He said that no brand lasts him more than a year.
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #39  
The blades only have one cutting edge so balancing is not an option with the traditional blade balancer. What is typically done is you weigh each blade to be sure they weigh the same. If they don’t take additional metal from the cutting edge of the heaviest blade
 
   / "Sharpened" the bush hog blades #40  
My only comment about the cheap HF angle grinders, I buy more than one at a time so as they expire I have a backup. Far as a long lasting 4.5. I have one of the Chief 4.5 air powered grinders which is an exact copy of the IR grinder and it's bullet proof. I use the hell out of it but then I prefer air tools anyway. HF Chief 4.5 grinder = 100 bucks. IR 4.5 angle grinder = 190 bucks. Easy choice for me. I own a weld and fab shop and they get used HARD and used everyday.
 

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