have_blue
Veteran Member
EddieWalker said:
Ditto on the dirt ramps.
It takes just 1 or 2 scoops of dirt to make a quick ramp. With the rear wheels on the dirt and the front wheels on the ground, the mower will be pretty high off the ground.
Rear Finish Mower Sharpening blades on RFM
- Thread starter tld
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Ditto on the dirt ramps.
It takes just 1 or 2 scoops of dirt to make a quick ramp. With the rear wheels on the dirt and the front wheels on the ground, the mower will be pretty high off the ground.
wedge40
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2007
- Messages
- 2,196
tld said:
Being a home owner, jack stands are like 2x4's you can never have enough of them. When I did my blades on the bushog I used the 3pt and jack stands. I also use them to hold up attachments so I can hook them up easier.
Wedge
sandman2234
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 6,073
- Location
- Jacksonville, Florida
- Tractor
- JD2555 and a few Allis Chalmers and now one Kubota
PAB,
Your right, concrete blocks are great! My home and shop are both made of them and I prefer them to wood. However, most people that use concrete blocks either stand them on end for extra height, and/or set the steel piece directly onto the block. Either way becomes a serious liability, so I figured the best thing was just to advise against it, in the interest of a long life.
David from jax
Your right, concrete blocks are great! My home and shop are both made of them and I prefer them to wood. However, most people that use concrete blocks either stand them on end for extra height, and/or set the steel piece directly onto the block. Either way becomes a serious liability, so I figured the best thing was just to advise against it, in the interest of a long life.
David from jax
MarkLeininger
Platinum Member
They were thinking that when blocks are installed as part of a wall, with mortar to completely distribute the load uniformly, and the weight of the whole house applied vertically so no part of the wall can go into tension, then blocks are really strong and safe. When you pile them individually on the ground and apply a load that allows them to go into tension, or apply any transverse loading, or subject them to point loading, then they perform very poorly, and can easily break. Brick layers can break a single concrete block with a few strikes with the edge of their trowel. Once the blocks are installed as part of a wall, it takes a bulldozer to break it up.PAB_OH said:
The safety police can make you crazy, but don't let them drive you so crazy that you put yourself at risk to prove them wrong.
I saw something on TV where they were testing the strength of concrete blocks. However, they were testing the force needed to break the block that was standing normally (as in a wall) and distributing the pressure evenly on the entire block. The block held very well.
Resting the pressure of 1/4 inch steel in one spot would probably be like a knife going thru it.
Mow I'll have to decide on which jackstands to buy!
Resting the pressure of 1/4 inch steel in one spot would probably be like a knife going thru it.
Mow I'll have to decide on which jackstands to buy!
PAB_OH
Platinum Member
Mark,
I understand your point but you seem to be missing mine. If you apply a load to a single block in the way it was designed to carry a load it's safe. Putting them in to a wall system with offset CL's and putting mortar between them is great for increasing rigidity of the wall. Regardless though the blocks must be capable of carrying a certain load. You'll get that same strength (not rigidity) if you properly load one block or ten thousand stacked in a wall system.
I agree with the safety comment but there's no reason to imply concrete block are inherently dangerous as it seemed some people were doing. It's simply not the case. Also, as I stated, if you don't know how to properly distribute a load then those people should stick to solid steel chunks to be safe.
Sandman,
I figured that was what you were implying. I'm just trying to make the point that the block is not evil, LOL. It won't grab a gun and kill you. Seriously though, using concrete block carries more risk than solid steel block but if you know how to use them they are as capable of performing the task at hand.
I understand your point but you seem to be missing mine. If you apply a load to a single block in the way it was designed to carry a load it's safe. Putting them in to a wall system with offset CL's and putting mortar between them is great for increasing rigidity of the wall. Regardless though the blocks must be capable of carrying a certain load. You'll get that same strength (not rigidity) if you properly load one block or ten thousand stacked in a wall system.
I agree with the safety comment but there's no reason to imply concrete block are inherently dangerous as it seemed some people were doing. It's simply not the case. Also, as I stated, if you don't know how to properly distribute a load then those people should stick to solid steel chunks to be safe.
Sandman,
I figured that was what you were implying. I'm just trying to make the point that the block is not evil, LOL. It won't grab a gun and kill you. Seriously though, using concrete block carries more risk than solid steel block but if you know how to use them they are as capable of performing the task at hand.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I unbolt mine and sharpen on a grinder.
When you dangle the mower off the trailer, a meteor could hit one of the tires and blow it up. With you underneath, it could mash your head if the meteor doesn't kill you first.
Throw a floor jack under the dam thing, block it up with 4 by 4s and put a wrench on it. Biggest problem to deal with will be the tendency for the spindles to rotate when you wrench it. The reaction torque could knock it off the blocks if you remove it from the tractor.
I suppose you could also sharpen it "on the fly" by spinning it under full power and holding a sharpening stone near the blades. Wear gloves to protect your fingernails. Sure saves a lot of time, though...
Good grief. Be sure to get a permission slip from the local township hall.
Throw a floor jack under the dam thing, block it up with 4 by 4s and put a wrench on it. Biggest problem to deal with will be the tendency for the spindles to rotate when you wrench it. The reaction torque could knock it off the blocks if you remove it from the tractor.
I suppose you could also sharpen it "on the fly" by spinning it under full power and holding a sharpening stone near the blades. Wear gloves to protect your fingernails. Sure saves a lot of time, though...
Good grief. Be sure to get a permission slip from the local township hall.
WH401
Platinum Member
Impact wrench for on and off, jack stands & wood blocks for support, and a 4" angle grinder for sharpening, I won't even mess with a bench grinder anymore, its horribly slow and can know where near give you the long, sloping edge needed for a nice cut and the strength of the edge.
RobJ
Elite Member
You mean yall don't just raise the 3pt, stick my...errr your long skinny arm under there with an impact and zip them off in 10 seconds? And them vice them and grind them with an angle grinder?
Me neither. Far to dangerous!!!
Actually I only sharpen them once then replace. We have some ore around the place and it can do a number on the blades. Plus I tend to mow places with the RFM that I should use the bushhog.
Rob
Me neither. Far to dangerous!!!
Actually I only sharpen them once then replace. We have some ore around the place and it can do a number on the blades. Plus I tend to mow places with the RFM that I should use the bushhog.
Rob
