Shaver post pounder

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

I recently bought a shaver post pounder and it has a 550 valve (open center). The tractor im using it on is an older john deere with a closed center hydraulic system. I was told the open center pounder would work, but when i push the handle, nothing happens. The ram on the pounder doesnt even begin to budge. Any thoughts on this?
If i were to have to put a new valve on this pounder what kind of valve would i be looking for? I called Shaver and was quoted 2500 for one of their valves! This is an old used pounder that will not see much use...theres got to be a $100 solution out there!

kennyd · May 21, 2018

If the tractor is a CC system (what model is it?) then you need a CC valve, it's just that simple. Some valves can be converted, I'm not sure if Shaver uses a proprietary valve or not. Can you post pics and any numbers on it?

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

The tractor is a 2240. The only casting marks on the pounder valve is "550".

Would this work?

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

....Or maybe this one? This one does say it can be converted to closed center, but is it the right type of valve to just dump all that fluid for dropping the pounder?

LouNY · May 21, 2018

Are you plugging into one of your existing remotes to feed the valve on the post driver?
If so have you held your remote on and tried using your pounders valve?
If you are looping from your closed center valve thru an open center the open center should be fed flow
with your valve activated ( may have to use a bungee cord or rope to hold your valve open ).

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

LouNY said:
Are you plugging into one of your existing remotes to feed the valve on the post driver?
If so have you held your remote on and tried using your pounders valve?
If you are looping from your closed center valve thru an open center the open center should be fed flow
with your valve activated ( may have to use a bungee cord or rope to hold your valve open ).

Yes, i have had the remote on my tractor open and tried to open the valve on the pounder. Nothing... Fluid just flows through. Into a bucket at first to flush the pounder out then into the fill port on the tractor. The cylinder did not move. Could trapped air cause this?
I did notice , after i bought it, that 3 screws are missing from the valve...like someone had worked on the valve in the past. That was what made me suspect that something was wrong with the valve.

LouNY · May 21, 2018

So when you activate your tractor valve you are getting fluid thru the pounder valve and returning to the tractor?
So the feed is coming in the pressure port and leaving to return from the valve tank port?
If so when you activate the pounders valve it should interrupt the return flow and operate the pounder.

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

LouNY said:
So when you activate your tractor valve you are getting fluid thru the pounder valve and returning to the tractor?
So the feed is coming in the pressure port and leaving to return from the valve tank port?
If so when you activate the pounders valve it should interrupt the return flow and operate the pounder.

Yes, fluid is flowing through the valve back into my tractor.

I agree, it should. I sure wish it did too! If it did, i wouldnt be on here trying to figure out what kind of valve i need!
One other thing i noticed is that when i operated the valve on the pounder the PTO started turning on the tractor?!?

LouNY · May 21, 2018

Was the pounder all plumbed up with two quick connects?
Is it possible that the pressure feed and returns are switched?
Or a bad valve from Shaver

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

The pounder was plumbed with 1 quick connect on a high pressure hose and one larger 1" non-high pressure return hose.
I dont know if the valve was bad from shaver, but 30 some years of use could have caused it to go bad?

LouNY · May 21, 2018

THEPARTYHOUND said:
The pounder was plumbed with 1 quick connect on a high pressure hose and one larger 1" non-high pressure return hose.
I dont know if the valve was bad from shaver, but 30 some years of use could have caused it to go bad?

:thumbsup:

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

So, back to my original question, would either of the valves i linked to above work?

LouNY · May 21, 2018

I am not sure I would be tempted to use a 25-30 gpm valve so it could dump fast,
I am assuming hydraulic power up stretching the springs, then the other way the springs drive it down compressing the cylinder
and exhausting the fluid.

THEPARTYHOUND · May 21, 2018

In this link there is a pdf spec sheet to open. If im reading it right, for the 2500 series valves, the max flow rate from either work port a or b to outlet is 54 gpm. Would that be sufficient for the pounder to drop quickly as it should? The specific valve i *think* that i need is Model# RD-2575-T3-ESA1. A 3 way, 3 position valve...

LouNY · May 22, 2018

It specs like it should work,
With your closed center system this would work also;
1" NPT Carbon Steel 5145 PSI 3-Way Ball Valve | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Out of curiosity are you going to be mounting your post driver on your 3 pt. or on a front end loader?
We find it much easier to use mounted on the loader, it is easier to reach into hedgerows and corners then a 3 pt mount would be,
also the curl function helps in getting everything square.

Good Luck

THEPARTYHOUND · May 22, 2018

Actually, I dont think that one would work. I had to search out the company name and visit their website to find a spec sheet. Its an "L" flow pattern. It would flow from the high pressure side to the cylinder, but no way for it to flow from the cylinder to the discharge hose. I couldnt find any flow rates listed, although with 1" ports i would suspect it would move plenty of fluid.

ETA: HERE is where I found the spec sheet for the ball valve you listed above.

THEPARTYHOUND · May 22, 2018

As of now i have it going on my 3 point hitch. Was thinking it was going to be plug-n-play! Not so much... I can see what you mean with the advantages of having it mounted on the FEL. My thought on that was that it would be handy to have my forks on the FEL and carry my posts up there. I wont be pounding miles of posts...just a few here and there. Ill try it this way for now and see how it goes.

LouNY · May 22, 2018

THEPARTYHOUND said:
Actually, I dont think that one would work. I had to search out the company name and visit their website to find a spec sheet. Its an "L" flow pattern. It would flow from the high pressure side to the cylinder, but no way for it to flow from the cylinder to the discharge hose. I couldnt find any flow rates listed, although with 1" ports i would suspect it would move plenty of fluid.

ETA: HERE is where I found the spec sheet for the ball valve you listed above.

Yes it's an L pattern, but you are correct when you read the full specs it would not work, I was thinking the cylinder on port 1 however according to the notes
it would not be shutoff in that configuration.

PS, we have always found that it's a 2 person job to drive the posts, trying to get centered up and squared up to drive

Birdhunter1 · May 22, 2018

I used an open center log splitter valve on my Shaver post driver. Yes if there is air in the cylinder it can act like it doesn't get pressurized oil flow and it won't go up, you could have a line that is internally collapsed or the ram could be stuck. The cylinder does not have alot of force to raise the ram, it really is not a very strong cylinder, but it is very fast flowing on the downstroke and will drive posts... but to go up it doesn't have much more lift capacity than the ram/chute itself.

Crack the line loose at the cylinder and see if oil sprays or seeps out when you try and lift it, or use a floor jack to see if the ram goes up..

FYI>>> DO NOT TRY TO DEMO/OPERATE THE DRIVER ON A CONCRETE FLOOR... IT WILL HIT THE FLOOR AND CRACK IT.