LouNY
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Shaver post pounder
- Thread starter THEPARTYHOUND
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THEPARTYHOUND
Gold Member
So, back to my original question, would either of the valves i linked to above work?
LouNY
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I am not sure I would be tempted to use a 25-30 gpm valve so it could dump fast,
I am assuming hydraulic power up stretching the springs, then the other way the springs drive it down compressing the cylinder
and exhausting the fluid.
I am assuming hydraulic power up stretching the springs, then the other way the springs drive it down compressing the cylinder
and exhausting the fluid.
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THEPARTYHOUND
Gold Member
In this link there is a pdf spec sheet to open. If im reading it right, for the 2500 series valves, the max flow rate from either work port a or b to outlet is 54 gpm. Would that be sufficient for the pounder to drop quickly as it should? The specific valve i *think* that i need is Model# RD-2575-T3-ESA1. A 3 way, 3 position valve...
LouNY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
It specs like it should work,
With your closed center system this would work also;
1" NPT Carbon Steel 5145 PSI 3-Way Ball Valve | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
Out of curiosity are you going to be mounting your post driver on your 3 pt. or on a front end loader?
We find it much easier to use mounted on the loader, it is easier to reach into hedgerows and corners then a 3 pt mount would be,
also the curl function helps in getting everything square.
Good Luck
With your closed center system this would work also;
1" NPT Carbon Steel 5145 PSI 3-Way Ball Valve | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
Out of curiosity are you going to be mounting your post driver on your 3 pt. or on a front end loader?
We find it much easier to use mounted on the loader, it is easier to reach into hedgerows and corners then a 3 pt mount would be,
also the curl function helps in getting everything square.
Good Luck
OP
THEPARTYHOUND
Gold Member
Actually, I dont think that one would work. I had to search out the company name and visit their website to find a spec sheet. Its an "L" flow pattern. It would flow from the high pressure side to the cylinder, but no way for it to flow from the cylinder to the discharge hose. I couldnt find any flow rates listed, although with 1" ports i would suspect it would move plenty of fluid.
ETA: HERE is where I found the spec sheet for the ball valve you listed above.
ETA: HERE is where I found the spec sheet for the ball valve you listed above.
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THEPARTYHOUND
Gold Member
As of now i have it going on my 3 point hitch. Was thinking it was going to be plug-n-play! Not so much... I can see what you mean with the advantages of having it mounted on the FEL. My thought on that was that it would be handy to have my forks on the FEL and carry my posts up there. I wont be pounding miles of posts...just a few here and there. Ill try it this way for now and see how it goes.
LouNY
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Yes it's an L pattern, but you are correct when you read the full specs it would not work, I was thinking the cylinder on port 1 however according to the notes
it would not be shutoff in that configuration.
PS, we have always found that it's a 2 person job to drive the posts, trying to get centered up and squared up to drive
Birdhunter1
Veteran Member
I used an open center log splitter valve on my Shaver post driver. Yes if there is air in the cylinder it can act like it doesn't get pressurized oil flow and it won't go up, you could have a line that is internally collapsed or the ram could be stuck. The cylinder does not have alot of force to raise the ram, it really is not a very strong cylinder, but it is very fast flowing on the downstroke and will drive posts... but to go up it doesn't have much more lift capacity than the ram/chute itself.
Crack the line loose at the cylinder and see if oil sprays or seeps out when you try and lift it, or use a floor jack to see if the ram goes up..
FYI>>> DO NOT TRY TO DEMO/OPERATE THE DRIVER ON A CONCRETE FLOOR... IT WILL HIT THE FLOOR AND CRACK IT.
Crack the line loose at the cylinder and see if oil sprays or seeps out when you try and lift it, or use a floor jack to see if the ram goes up..
FYI>>> DO NOT TRY TO DEMO/OPERATE THE DRIVER ON A CONCRETE FLOOR... IT WILL HIT THE FLOOR AND CRACK IT.
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THEPARTYHOUND
Gold Member
Great, thanks Birdhunter! If there were air in the ram what would be the best way of going about getting it out of there?
