Shear Bolts, What do you Use?

[jinman]

Grade 2...too many to count. They work great!

 

[PineRidge]

My vote is for grade 2

 

[CharlieTR]

I have 6' medium duty cutter. I only use grade 5 since after the first day I used it. I think the bolt must match the hole size, so not a choice there.
I also think the type of cutter matters (Light, medium, heavy duty). My medium duty is rated to cut trees up to 2". If I cut more than than 2" that grade 5 will shear. With gr 2 I got same results as Fireman (break while engaging) and it would break just looking at a two inch tree.

 

[MrJimi]

I just made a phone call to Howse and left a message, still waiting for a reply and the best I can tell from their parts list online? it shows a grade 5
Jim

 

[Neophyte]

Good luck with Howse. Ordering parts through them has been a nightmare. The other part that annoys me about Howse is that they don't even offer their manuals online like most of the other companies. I think having manuals available online is a matter of safety. You shouldn't have to call and order them for $10 each and then wait for several days or weeks.

 

[Soundguy]

You can get gr2 and gr5 in the same sizes.

I've cut plenty of 2" material with my 5' kk and gr2 bolts.

For the original poster.. my vote is for gr2.. unless you have a slip clutch.

Soundguy

I have 6' medium duty cutter. I only use grade 5 since after the first day I used it. I think the bolt must match the hole size, so not a choice there.
I also think the type of cutter matters (Light, medium, heavy duty). My medium duty is rated to cut trees up to 2". If I cut more than than 2" that grade 5 will shear. With gr 2 I got same results as Fireman (break while engaging) and it would break just looking at a two inch tree.

 

[Dargo]

...unless you have a slip clutch.

Soundguy

Ah, ha!! There is my vote!!! I got so sick of carrying a toolbox full of grade 2 shear bolts for my 6' cutter that it drove me nuts. I have a 70 hp gear box and I'll mow anything I can push over. There is a guy named Darryl Harris in central KY somewhere (you can find him on eBay by harrisfarmequipment or something like that, and it cost me less than $100 to put on a slip clutch. I adjusted it for a 40-50 hp gear box and I've not had a problem since.

I'd hate to count the wasted hours trying to get the darn little piece of the broken bolt out of a hot shaft sticking out of the gear box and screwing around with trying to line up the new bolts. Grrr!!! Heck, if you have a splined gear box, I'll sell you a 40 hp slip clutch for $50. I bought it to put on my rototiller before I got my tiller delivered. When my tiller was delivered it had a slip clutch on it which I didn't order. When I called to tell them, they just told me to keep it; thus the extra.

 

[sandman2234]

Mr Jimi,
I guess this post reinforces my phone conversation of last night. Suggested a slip clutch and shear pins as a dual insurance policy for that hydraulic motor. I would try the grade 2 and if they break too frequently, go to something a little stronger.
David from jax

 

[MrJimi]

Mr Jimi,
I guess this post reinforces my phone conversation of last night. Suggested a slip clutch and shear pins as a dual insurance policy for that hydraulic motor. I would try the grade 2 and if they break too frequently, go to something a little stronger.
David from jax

David, in the hydraulic world there is a different approach to this, its called a relief valve in-line.
No its not installed yet and I am drilling holes in beam to bolt trusses to beam, 66 to go

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not sure the relief would function fast enough to be the sole source of driveline protection.

Soundguy