Shear Bolts

   / Shear Bolts #11  
Here is an interesting page that give the characteristics of the various grades of bolts, both SAE and metric.

bolt grade characteristics

I am not a mechanical engineer but it would appear that a grade 8 bolt would take a lot more pressure to shear than a grade 5. Both grades are medium carbon steel and both are hardened but probably to a different Rockwell hardness.
 
   / Shear Bolts
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I don't know what the difference is, but my manual actually refers to them as "Hex Cap Screws" and not Bolts.

Anyone know the difference ????

Tim
 
   / Shear Bolts #13  
On my 8n.. half the bolts are identified as cap screws as well, in the parts manual.

Soundguy
 
   / Shear Bolts #14  
As I remember it, a bolt is designed to go thru somethng with a nut on the opposite side. It would generally have a smooth shank down to where the threads start. A screw is designed to go into something that has a tapped hole. It would be threaded all the way to the head.
 
   / Shear Bolts
  • Thread Starter
#15  
BB TX,

That makes sense. I think I remember when I did a google search for "Cap Screws", the pipctures did show what looked like a "Bolt" but was threaded all the way up to the Hex Head.

By George... I think you've got it !

Thanks, Tim
 
   / Shear Bolts #16  
Very close, but not entirely correct. The difference is a bolt is intended to be inserted through a hole(s) and tightened or released by torquing a nut, a screw is intended to either be inserted into a preformed thread or by creating it's own thread and then be tighened or released by torquing it's head. There are fasteners that only qualify as bolts (round heads, plow bolts, track bolts) and ones that only qualify as screws (wood screws, self tapping screws). There are also some standards which fasters must meet to qualify for certain designations, ie there are actual diameter differences between ASME bolts and ASME hex cap screws. The length of the shoulder is actually a function of the specific size/length combination and the type of fastener. All that being said, as far as the hardware store is concerned, as long as you have the right grade and size they are basically interchangable. The Gr8 are almost for sure technically going to be cap screws.
As far as Gr8 shearing before Gr5, that's an interesting theory. The shear strength for a material is generally accepted as 1/2 tensile strength. That would make Gr8 about 25% stronger in shear than Gr5. (roughly 75ksi vs 60ksi) The only possible explanation at that point would be based on Gr8 being brittle ve Gr5 being ductile and in an high load instantaneous impact the Gr8 fracturing while the Gr5 yielded. At a quick glance, the problem I see with this theory is that the ultimate tensile strength for a Gr5 is less than the yield strength of a Gr8. ie the Gr5 fails at before a Gr8 would start to permanently deform. Ok, enough engineerspeak: In practice, I suppose that if just the right joint configuration existed, just the right load were applied, and you had a Gr5 on the high end of it's strength and a Gr8 at the low end of it's strength that it might be possible to achieve a condition where the Gr8 sheared and the Gr5 permanently deformed INTO the joint (ie jammed between the two halves thus locking itself in). Personally, if it were even possible, I'll take the failed Gr8 'cause that Gr5 is going to take a lot of blood, sweat, and tears to get out.
 
   / Shear Bolts #17  
Villengineer,

Thanks for that interesting analysis. I had already just decided that the guy in the hardware store didn't know what he was talking about.

I guess maybe you could say that it's better to use a smaller grade 8 instead of a larger grade 5. Make sense?

Best,
Jim
 
   / Shear Bolts #18  
If you are wondering about an existing shear bolt system I would strongly suggest that you either use the exact size and type that the manufacturer call for or if you don't know what it is supposed to be use Grade 2 bolts of the same size as the original.
If you are refering to designing a shear bolt system, I always try to utilize Grade 2 if possible. The cost difference and availability make Gr2 a great choice for a "disposable" part.
 
 

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