Shifting issue on CaseIH 685

Puffdaddy · Jan 7, 2025

Hey Everyone, I am new to this forum and hoping someone might help me out. I grew up on a farm and have owned a hobby farm now for 35 yrs so I've been around but have an issue with my new to me Case 685. My tractor has a conventional 4 speed transmission with R/L/H on one shifter and 1-4 on the second shifter. When using the front end loader I would shift from R to L on the one shifter but recently ran into an issue where I cannot shift in our out of gear with this shifter but have to put the 1-4 selector into N first. One thing I noted when I do this is that the tractor will "roll" slightly when its put into Neutral and then I can put either shifter into the gear I choose. This tells me that the gears are loaded, not allowing me to shift gears, but with the clutch fully engaged the tractor should be free to roll on its own, but this doesnt seem to be happening. Its as if the brake is applied when the clutch is engaged, but I also dont think this is happening because when I put the 1-4 selector into Neutral the tractor rolls freely so its not a case of a brake pedal or parking brake adjustment IMO. Otherwise the clutch seems to be in good condition with a respectable amount of range and good engagement so I dont feel like its a clutch issue either but I could be wrong.

I also noticed that my Hydraulic/transmission fluid had gone milky white recently. When I first got the tractor around 3 mos ago the fluid was clear. I topped it up as it was low and now it has gone white. Not sure if its a result of mixing Hyraulic fluids but I used good quality fluid albeit not Case HyTran as I did not have any. I dont think this is related to the shifting issue but wanted to mention it in case its relevant.

Appreciate any thoughts you might have as I'm stumped at this point.

Puff

jonsstihl · Jan 7, 2025

not familiar with that model but if the fluid is milky, that indicates water in the oil, and it is cold up here this time of year so water freezes so I would get the oil nice and warmed up and drain it first as a trouble shooting measure. any moisture in the bell housing as well that would cause the clutch to drag. are the shifter boots cracked, that would let water into the case.

Puffdaddy · Jan 7, 2025

Thanks for the feedback James. I considered water in the hydraulic to turn it white but what threw me was the fact that the hydraulic fluid was clear when I brought the tractor home and now it is white. The boots are worn out...basically gone so I didnt consider that as a potential entry point, thanks for that although having said that, I keep the tractor inside so shouldnt allow rain into the system. I am going to replace all the fluids and filters come spring but will tackle the hydraulics this weekend. Just hope I can get most/all of the old fluid out to eliminate the water or whatever the contamination is. Thanks again.

Farmer495 · Jan 7, 2025

Sounds like your clutch is not releasing fully....time for clutch job.

LouNY · Jan 7, 2025

Reduce the free play a bit and see if that helps. If the clutch is dragging that may help. Also if you can get the low reverse into neutral while you are rolling it will help.

Farmer495 · Jan 8, 2025

Cracked shifter boots won't hurt a thing on a 685. The shifters aren't on the transhousing, they are linkage on top of sheet metal. I have a 95 series that didn't even come with shifter boots from new.

Puffdaddy · Jan 8, 2025

Thanks Farmer and Louny. I checked the hydraulic fluid again last night and it was clear so I suspect my issue on the weekend was that it was foaming. I checked it Saturday while using it and it was white and a bit low so added some fluid. On Sunday I checked it again before using it and level was good but it was still white, but I guess it just didnt have enough time for the entrained air to escape, likely as it was quite cold as well. After 3 days level is good and oil is nice and clear, so I guess that was just a red herring and seems my only issue at this point is my clutch. I will do some adjustments to see if I can improve the situation. I got a new clutch with the tractor when I bought it but installing it is not something I would attempt to take on. I consider myself pretty handy but think replacing a clutch is beyond my capabilities, especially if I need to split the tractor.
Thanks all for your feedback, it certainly helps.

jonsstihl · Jan 8, 2025

the water in the oil will still settle out if given enough time. but it could be air also. the water will settle to the bottom and come out first when the drain plug is pulled. but I would run it to stir everything up before draining to make sure water is not pooled somewhere in the bottom of the case.

rScotty · Jan 8, 2025

Puffdaddy said:
Thanks Farmer and Louny. I checked the hydraulic fluid again last night and it was clear so I suspect my issue on the weekend was that it was foaming. I checked it Saturday while using it and it was white and a bit low so added some fluid. On Sunday I checked it again before using it and level was good but it was still white, but I guess it just didnt have enough time for the entrained air to escape, likely as it was quite cold as well. After 3 days level is good and oil is nice and clear, so I guess that was just a red herring and seems my only issue at this point is my clutch. I will do some adjustments to see if I can improve the situation. I got a new clutch with the tractor when I bought it but installing it is not something I would attempt to take on. I consider myself pretty handy but think replacing a clutch is beyond my capabilities, especially if I need to split the tractor.
Thanks all for your feedback, it certainly helps.

The trans/hydraulic oil should stay clear in use. If it goes murky or white in use and then clears up overnight that is pretty clear evidence of a suction air leak somewhere. You have to fix it to protect the hydraulic pump. It won't get better on its own.

Usually the air is getting into the line in the mounting for the hydraulic filter or somewhere in the line from sump/filter/ to hydralic pump inlet. Just to start, any rubber hose in the suction line needs replacing. Simply tightening hose clamps won't do it, and a suction air leak doesn't always have a corresponding drip or oil leak.

I'm not sure what the air leak that has to do with the shifting problem, unless the tractor has a hydraulic assist on the clutch. Might check on that.
Luck,
rScotty