Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
$10.00 is awful cheap for a head gasket, even a two cylinder one. Are you sure it is the correct gasket for that engine? Diesels run high compression and need good quality head gaskets; generally steel is used for the cylinder rings at a minimum.
Bad idea to use Loctite on head bolts - interferes with the proper torque readings. Torque specs for bolts, unless specified otherwise, are for clean, dry threads. Bolt and hole, both. You can look up on the internet the torque specs for the size bolt you are using. Be sure to be exact - diameter and thread pitch. That will put you in the ballpark if you can't find the torque specs from the engine manufacturer. No gasket goop on the head gasket, either.
You do know that heads need to be torqued down in a proper sequence, right? Usually, though not always, it is started in the center of one side, the opposite bolt, then the next bolt on the first side, then the opposite, etc, working your way to the ends. I usually torque the bolts in sequence to about 30# less than max, then go over them again in sequence bringing them up to full torque. Others may do it differently.
The head should probably be checked for flatness. You can do this yourself if there isn't a machine shop nearby that can do it. A sheet of thick plate glass (3/8" or so) and some feeler gauges will tell you a fair amount and if you have a machinist's straightedge you can check it completely. If it is out of flat by more than .005" I'd have it milled flat. You can also have it checked for cracks while you're at it.
Bad idea to use Loctite on head bolts - interferes with the proper torque readings. Torque specs for bolts, unless specified otherwise, are for clean, dry threads. Bolt and hole, both. You can look up on the internet the torque specs for the size bolt you are using. Be sure to be exact - diameter and thread pitch. That will put you in the ballpark if you can't find the torque specs from the engine manufacturer. No gasket goop on the head gasket, either.
You do know that heads need to be torqued down in a proper sequence, right? Usually, though not always, it is started in the center of one side, the opposite bolt, then the next bolt on the first side, then the opposite, etc, working your way to the ends. I usually torque the bolts in sequence to about 30# less than max, then go over them again in sequence bringing them up to full torque. Others may do it differently.
The head should probably be checked for flatness. You can do this yourself if there isn't a machine shop nearby that can do it. A sheet of thick plate glass (3/8" or so) and some feeler gauges will tell you a fair amount and if you have a machinist's straightedge you can check it completely. If it is out of flat by more than .005" I'd have it milled flat. You can also have it checked for cracks while you're at it.