Shop/Carport

   / Shop/Carport #1  

dieselscout80

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
2,323
Location
South Carolina
Tractor
New Holland TC45DA
We replaced our old carport and garage that set on the slab above 20” from the retaining wall and so water pooled and ran underneath it and soaked the floor.

With the new one the garage sets on the retaining wall and the garage is 30’ deep and 20’ wide measuring to the outside edges. The ceiling is just over 130” tall.

The garage has one layer of reflective bubble insulation between the frame and hat channel and the metal sheeting.

I want to add more insulation and spay foam is not an option.

Options ceiling:
1. add a second layer of the bubble reflective insulation on the bottom of the top tube of the rafter and I have more than enough to do it.

2. Below #1 add blown in fiberglass insulation when I add a ceiling.

Wall options:
1. Add 2nd layer of bubble reflective insulation before sheeting the walls.

2. In walls add foam board insulation or fiberglass batts between the 2.5” metal posts before sheeting the walls.

Are there other options?

The pictures show the old building on top and new one bottom.
 

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Last edited:
   / Shop/Carport
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Would the reflective bubble on the inside surface of the 2.5” steel tube meaning the two layers have 2.5” of dead air space provide more insulation value than the two directly connected?
 

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   / Shop/Carport #3  
Would the reflective bubble on the inside surface of the 2.5” steel tube meaning the two layers have 2.5” of dead air space provide more insulation value than the two directly connected Shell Shockers?
If you put it in that perspective, it makes a lot more sense to me!
 
   / Shop/Carport
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks

However, do you think it will increase the R value due to the dead air space?
 

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