Shop slab additions!

[Rustyiron]

Hay Dude I use oil until mid December usually then a indoor (gasification) wood boiler until somewhere in March. I know it sounds strange, but it's a very different kind of heat. I have a tstat that monitors both the slab and air temperature and set at 60, I'm in the shop completely comfortable in a tee shirt.
As with any type of heat, and as difficult as it is in June or July to stop and insulate..... insulation is your friend and is money well spent and will find its way back to your pocket in the meantime making you more comfortable along the way. :thumbsup:
I like recycled commercial roof foam, you should be able to find it pretty easily in your area. I even see it occasionally in Lancaster Farming. It blows fiberglass away in r values.

 

[rangerfredbob]

I'm still open on the heat source, I'm planning on putting the manifold over where I'll put the wood stove, but am thinking about a roof solar heater or a propane water heater that I have from a RV... Walls are insulated, should help tremendously...

For the chain pots yes, use the ABS/PVC just as a form for the hole, I see on the ad that people normally drill it out, but the pipe should be the right diameter... My use would be chaining things down to straighten, I have two vehicles with bent frames and just as a "while I'm there" kinda thing wouldn't be bad...

Going to try to go to the scrap yard today, see if I can find anything fun... If I find some small chunks of 6" I beam or H beam I might just find a home for them in the slab, last time I was there steel was $.55 a pound so wouldn't be too bad...

 

[Rustyiron]

:thumbsup:
You know we need pictures :laughing:

 

[rangerfredbob]

I think I'm going to do the run to the metal yard next Saturday... The attached is my first go at a layout for the PEX, roll up doors at bottom, man door middlish of top, blue box on top right is office area which will be loft over it, the blocked off section is the lift area and manifold area top left will be near where I think a wood stove should go...

 

[Rustyiron]

Those look like the drawings the guys that designed my system gave me. Maybe I'm simple but I laid it all out, one "loop" at a time and used marking paint at direction changes and a few mid points. I don't know if you plan on the 6x6 wire mesh, but if you put it down neatly and squarely it's a great "guide" and eliminates most of the measuring. Another helpful item is a un- spooler or un- coiler. The tube is just like a rope,cable or hose, it needs to be un rolled so that it lays flat and 90* corners add up to trouble without one. I found that I needed to secure the tube fully at the corners or bends, then I'd go back and secure the straight long runs. I used zip ties and fastened to the wire mesh.
In simple not so long winded terms,
You can't just lay your loop out on the floor, it will need to be fastened and making adjustments because something got "off" means completely redoing what's done to correct things. :thumbsup:

 

[rangerfredbob]

Sounds simple enough, I hadn't thought far enough ahead about unspooling, thanks for that. I'm just doing rebar on a 2' mesh so not quite as nice but I'll try to make it work