shop sweats

   / shop sweats #1  

capt jack

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2006
Messages
138
Location
North Texas
Tractor
kubota M105,B21,Cat D6B
I have a 20'x20' metal shop building, concrete slab (no vapor barrier) that sweats like a congressman on judgement day. I have to keep all tools coated in oil. but chains, jackstands etc. are solid rust. Other shop buildings I've stored my stuff in never had this problem. There are no gable vents, and no wall or ceiling insulation. building is for the most part air tight. This is mostly a winter (as much winter as we have in North Texas) problem. Is gable ventalation my answer?
 
   / shop sweats #2  
capt jack said:
I have a 20'x20' metal shop building, concrete slab (no vapor barrier) that sweats like a congressman on judgement day. I have to keep all tools coated in oil. but chains, jackstands etc. are solid rust. Other shop buildings I've stored my stuff in never had this problem. There are no gable vents, and no wall or ceiling insulation. building is for the most part air tight. This is mostly a winter (as much winter as we have in North Texas) problem. Is gable ventalation my answer?

You are currently storing your equipment in a Pop Can!!! :( Insulation and or vapor barrier will help a little. Better ventilation will help the most. But without artificial heat or moisture control, nothing is going to prevent moisture buildup on your equipment, no different than storing it outside during those cool, damp days. If you find a solution, let us know the outcome. :)
 
   / shop sweats #3  
My shed for the tractor sweats also. I was thinking of a small gable vent fan to too.
 
   / shop sweats #4  
There's been quite a few threads on this if you do a search. I'm in the minority here when I say that a building does not sweat. I know it's probably just splitting hairs, but the moisture in your building is condensation.

The same thing that happens when you have a cold soda on a hot day. Water forms on the surface of the can. It comes from the humidity in the air and turns to water when it's tempature is lowered.

What's happening with your building is that you have changed the insid and outside tempatures. The metal acts as a location for the moisture in the air to collect as it transfers from it's gas state to liquid.

The greater the humidity, the more water in the air.

The only practical solution is to vent the building. You need to have the outside tempature the same as the inside tempature within a few degrees at the roof. The easist, simplest and cheapest way to do this is to put gable vents on each end of your building.

The picture is of the one I put on my shop.

Eddie
 

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   / shop sweats #5  
You need to vent it to get the moisture laden air outside and bring in the drier cooler air from the outside. You might also consider a ceiling fan to help to move the air and keep it circulating. A gable power vent will also help. It will also be helpful if you put a wood stove in there to dry it out occasionally. Now doubt about it, cold metal attracts the moisture to it where it will condense into droplets. Dusty
 
   / shop sweats #6  
if theres moisture coming up from your slab then your problem is more than a gable vent will cure. is the ground slopped away from the building? are there gutters on the roof? what kind of soil is it built on? what is under the slab?
 
   / shop sweats #7  
EddieWalker said:
There's been quite a few threads on this if you do a search. I'm in the minority here when I say that a building does not sweat. I know it's probably just splitting hairs, but the moisture in your building is condensation.

The same thing that happens when you have a cold soda on a hot day. Water forms on the surface of the can. It comes from the humidity in the air and turns to water when it's tempature is lowered.

What's happening with your building is that you have changed the insid and outside tempatures. The metal acts as a location for the moisture in the air to collect as it transfers from it's gas state to liquid.

The greater the humidity, the more water in the air.

The only practical solution is to vent the building. You need to have the outside tempature the same as the inside tempature within a few degrees at the roof. The easist, simplest and cheapest way to do this is to put gable vents on each end of your building.

The picture is of the one I put on my shop.

Eddie

Eddie you were doing so good with a detailed, hair splitting, techno explanation!!! Then you made the statement about the air temp being the same inside as outside as a fix. How would that solution work in a shop that is heated?? :D
 
   / shop sweats #8  
You need to either vent, heat it or run a dehumidifier. I have a 50x64 shop that is insulated and airtight(Ha!) for all practicle purposes. The slab stays dry as does everything else however the humidity level will go to 85% unless something is done.

During winter I heat the shop with a wood burner and this keeps it dry.
The rest of the time I use a dehumidifier. The dehumidifier will keep it below 65%, usually upper 50's to low 60's. Just set the level and empty it once a day if needed. Its a portable unit with a 2 gallon capacity.

To add....the temp needs to 65+ degrees for the dehumidifier to work effectively.
 
   / shop sweats #9  
ovrszd said:
Eddie you were doing so good with a detailed, hair splitting, techno explanation!!! Then you made the statement about the air temp being the same inside as outside as a fix. How would that solution work in a shop that is heated?? :D

Hey Ovrszd,

When the shop is heated, the outside temps are now cooler than the inside temps. This will cause the formation of condensation on the outside of the roof. If you were to go outside late at night or early in the morning, you'll see this all over the place. The roof and hood of your car does it all the time.

There is a formula as to how much water the air will hold based on the tempature of the air. Warm air will hold more water than cold air. If it's a dry climate, there isn't going to be much water in the air and you have very low humidity. Areas with lots of moisture and high temps get high humidity because the air will hold large quantities of moisture.

When the air is cooled, like the soda can example, you get condensation because the air can no longer hold the level of water it is holding. The soda can is cold enough to change the tempature of the air imediately surrounding itself. A warm soda will not have any change. There is a point for the air tempature and the soda can that will cause this. I forget the term, but at this point, humidity turns into condensation.

Fog is the same thing, but on a much larger scale. The ground lowers the air tempature to the point of 100% humidity and condensation forms on the surface of everything.

I'm also of the opinion that your slab has absolutely zero affect on condensation in a building. I'm in the extreme minority here to the point I might be the only person here who thinks this. My reasoning is very simple. To believe that water vapor travels up from the dirt under a slab, means that there has to be moisture under the slab. I've demolished quite a few concrete slabs on one kind or another over the years, and have never found one with moist dirt underneath them. In fact, the soils is so dry, it's almost as hard as the concrete. The other reason I don't believe moisture is traveling through 4 to 6 inches of concrete is that it wont' travel down through it. Pour water on the slab and wait for it to leak through. It's not gonna happen. If standing water wont' travel downhill through concrete, it aint gonna travel uphill through it. Espesially if theres no moisture under the slab to begin with. From what I understand, the reason for a vapor barrier under a slab is to hold the moisture in when pouring the slab. Once it's poured, the vapor barrier does nothing.

Venting the inside of the building will equalize it with the outside tempature. This will stop the formation of condensation. But if it's foggy outside, than it will be foggy inside.

Heating the inside will stop condensation from forming on the inside also, but it's an expensive fix. Circulating the air will help, but only to a limited degree unless you have vents. With vents, you can still circulate the air, but I don't know if it will make a difference or is needed.

Condensation will also form in the attics of wood built homes. This is the reason for attic vents. Some people think attic vents are to cool off the attic, but from what I've read, they make no difference in the amount of heat you have in your attic. They are there to equalize the outside tempature to the inside and cut down on the amount of condensation you get in your attic. It will not eliminate it, but the average home can survive without any problems with the minimal ammount of condensation that it gets every year.

Eddie
 

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