Shop Tricks

[BearKiller]

Need to remove a broken key from a cylinder lock. Take a coping saw blade and break off one end pin, then grind a slight taper on the back side of the blade. Insert into the cylinder so that the blade's teeth grab the notches on the broken key and pull out the broken piece.

If you need to limit access to someone whom you trusted with a key--purposely break of a key that fits the lock and push into the cylinder--no other key can be inserted--the above tool lets you remove it when you want access. We used this trick to "lockout" tenants (illegal of course) when we needed to dunn them for overdue rent. Whose to say how a key got broken in the lock.

That's a good one, there.

I am gonna remember it.

It would be advisable to prepare a couple coping-saw blades in advance and put them in the vehicle where you can find them.

I have seen more than a few in Walmart parking lots and the like, digging in the ignition-switch with paper clips, bobby pins, whatever, after cute little junior twisted off the house-key in the ignition.

 

[BearKiller]

>> MARKING STEEL <<

Many years ago, I was shown that Pentel or BIC white-out pens were excellent marking devices for steel work, such as welding, torching, cutting, etc.

It had always been my experience that those brittle soapstone pencil marks could easily be blown or brushed away, losing your mark.

The white-out pens are permanent; and, once dry, can only be ground or sanded off.

The white line remains right in front of the hottest torch-flame, allowing one to easily follow their mark.

I am surprised that this practice hasn't caught on more than it has; I still see professional welders putting up with those aggravating soap-stone sticks.

 

[PILOON]

That's a good one, there.

I am gonna remember it.

It would be advisable to prepare a couple coping-saw blades in advance and put them in the vehicle where you can find them.

I have seen more than a few in Walmart parking lots and the like, digging in the ignition-switch with paper clips, bobby pins, whatever, after cute little junior twisted off the house-key in the ignition.

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HA!

Funny, did that just 2 days ago and it works great.

My problem now is that I could not make a key copy so I need a new switch as due to 12 years of crud the switch no longer turns when I tried to re-insert the key piece.

Never learn. Should have left 'good enough' alone, after all who would ever have known that only a screw driver was all that was needed to start my tractor.

 

[BearKiller]

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who would ever have known that only a screw driver was all that was needed to start my tractor.

The half-wits that I work with undertook to replace the steering column in the old shop truck; they had broken some irreplacable pot-metal casting in the old one when trying to fix the ignition slider-switch.

Somehow, they managed to end up not needing a key to start and drive the truck, just turn the ears on the key-hole, no key necessary.

 

[larryccf]

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... after all who would ever have known that only a screw driver was all that was needed to start my tractor.

car thieves commonly know - i had a VW R32, kind of a sporty car, 4wd, 6spd, 240hp stock - went up to montreal - 1.5 hours after checking in at 9:00PM in a frigging blizzard, went out to the car to get something - only seven cars in the parking lot and mine had been broken into - they'd simply driven a screwdriver into the driver side door lock, and TURNED IT

couldn't figure why the alarm hadn't sounded when i figured out in the morning, that the alarm automatically shuts off when driver door lock is opened, whether by hand or by key or screwdriver in the lock

all the hassle of a "smart " electronic key and the alarm is defeated by a $1 screwdriver (they left it on the seat of my car)

sorry, had to rant on that one

 

[BearKiller]

>> RECYCLING CORDLESS TOOLS <<

I have been meaning to do this for years and, seeing as how it has poured the rain for the last thirty-nine days and nights, I finally got it done today.

Over the years, I have accumulated several 12-volt cordless drills, all out of action due either to the charger going haywire, or the battery-pack no longer taking a charge.

I put 12-volts to the contacts inside the drill handle that make contact with the battery-pack when it is popped in place.

The first way I tested ran the drill backwards to the proper direction.

I switched the test-leads and she fan forward like she's supposed to.

I took my BIC white-out pen and marked "+" and "-" on the appropriate sides.

I then soldered up a three foot 12-AWG pigtail with female spade connectors on one end and a two-prong pigtail connector on the other.

I drilled strategically positioned holes through the drill's plastic base and zip-tied the wires firmly to the drill.

I then flooded the hollow area where I made my connections with hot-melt glue, such that the wire connections are unlikely to ever come loose.

I sleeved the wires inside some plastic loom to give it a more finished look.

I plugged the pigtail into one of the 12-volt power source pigtails that are scattered about my shop and pulled the trigger.

Now I have a corded 12-volt drill that I can use anywhere that I have 12-volt power.


One of the cordless tools that has waited useless in the case that it came in, due to it's charger going bad, is a Black & Decker "FireStorm" multi-tool set, with drill, sander, jigsaw, and something else that I don't recall; I intend to fix it with a cord in the very near future.

 

[toy]

I have a craftsman battery drill and one of the batteries wouldn't charge so I got a dewalt 18 volt drill and was using the craftsman drill so I could continue working longer without having to wait for a battery to charge. The other battery set on a shelf for quite a while and then one day I was doing a job that I thought it would be nice to have that extra battery if it would charge. I put it on charge and it charged and has been taking charge ever since, I don't know if that is a cure all for the batteries but it worked for me and if I have the same thing happen again I will do the same to see if it will charge.

 

[relaqbr]

I have a craftsman battery drill and one of the batteries wouldn't charge so I got a dewalt 18 volt drill <snip> one day I was doing a job that I thought it would be nice to have that extra battery if it would charge. I put it on charge and it charged and has been taking charge ever since.

Many of these batteries heat up on high discharge and in my experience will not charge until they cool. They actually indicate failed. (I moved my charger out of the afternoon sunlight )

BTW I am relatively new and want to thank everyone here for a 99.999% polite, pleasant and informative group! Thanks

 

[BearKiller]

>> EXTRA LONG TEST LEAD <<

Especially when messing with long gooseneck cattle-trailers and flat-beds, one sometimes finds themselves needing a set of wires long enough to reach from the battery in the truck to the tail-lights sixty feet away on the rear of the trailer.

Any time I have two lengths of wire that long, I end up using them on a wiring project somewhere and don't have them when I need them, especially out on the road somewhere.

Here is how I cured the situation :

I took a male and a female 110-volt extension-cord end and wired two alligator clips into each one, connecting the white "common" and green "GROUND" to the black GROUND alligator clip, and the black "hot" to the red HOT alligator clip.

I used medium-large alligators, big enough to grab the battery posts, for the battery end and smaller alligators at the "test" end.

I can now plug my alligator-clip adapters into any old extension-cord and use it for an extra long test lead.

It is a good idea to keep these adapters locked safely away if idiots or curious children are about, as one might plug one into a wall socket and get a new hairdo.

 

[tommu56]

Need to remove a broken key from a cylinder lock. Take a coping saw blade and break off one end pin, then grind a slight taper on the back side of the blade. Insert into the cylinder so that the blade's teeth grab the notches on the broken key and pull out the broken piece.

If you need to limit access to someone whom you trusted with a key--purposely break of a key that fits the lock and push into the cylinder--no other key can be inserted--the above tool lets you remove it when you want access. We used this trick to "lockout" tenants (illegal of course) when we needed to dunn them for overdue rent. Whose to say how a key got broken in the lock.

Schledge actually sell this type key they are called construction keys and there is a removal too included in the set.

tm