Short Block Source?

Palisade · May 3, 2001

Hi,

I'm new to the forum. And believe me, I should have spent more time here before I bought my tractor.

I just bought an L2550 with 4100 hours on the meter. It came with a FEL and box blade. I paid $6800 and was thrilled (so were my 11 and 8 year old sons) we thought we were getting a great deal. Anyway, 15 minutes after we had it home it blew up, (somebody could make a movie out of this story). Water was pumping into the oil pan and out the dip stick. Took 2 days and tore it down, replaced the head gasket and fired it up (while it was apart, we magnafluxed the head and block and did not see any cracks). We have the same problem, water & oil come pumping out of the dip stick hole. Upon further testing, we can pour water in the radiator and it flows down into the oil pan, with only gravity for power. No oil is found in the water system. So it seems like the block has a hole in it. We think one of the water jackets has a hole in it and water is flooding into the oil pan. The engine starts and runs, but in minutes the oil turns a sickly white from the water.

So, it looks like I got suckered. I can't return the tractor. The former owner has disappeared. My local dealer quoted me $1,650 for a new block. Does any one know where you can purchase a short block, or long block. Are there any engine remanufacturing companies? And yes, the tractor was abused badly. No to very low maintenance. We recored the radiator, rebuilt the water pump, replaced all the hoses, while we had it apart.

Any ideas, suggestions and prayers are all welcome.

Thanks

Pat

GlueGuy · May 3, 2001

Well, with 4100 hours, it sounds like it's been around the block a few times. Not sure if you can tell with that many hours if it's been abused, or just plain used. A typical homeowner might be pressed to put more than 200 hours per year; what's the vintage of this tractor, and how old is it?

I can't help you on finding a short block, but with that many hours, & a cracked block, I would go through the rest of the engine, bearings, valves, the works.

The GlueGuy

allmobile · May 3, 2001

Don't panic yet. I believe there is a freeze plug in the block behind the gear case cover. That is probably where the water is getting into the oil.

Brian

Anonymous Poster · May 3, 2001

Call Wengers of Meyerstown, PA. (http://www.wengers.com). I bought a lot of parts for my old B6000 from them over the years and was always impressed with their prices and customer service. They have one of the largest inventories of used Kubota parts in the country.

Rch · May 3, 2001

Is this a wet or dry sleeved engine? Many moons ago my uncle and I rebuilt an International WD 6( started on gas then you switched to diesel) and broke the cylinder wall into the water jacket with a home made sleeve puller ( a dry sleeved engine). When we started it, steam poured out the crankcase breather within a few minutes. He took the block to a specialist antigue car restorer machine shop in Rochester IN who bored out that cylinder, placed a tight sleeve in and then the regular sleeve after that. Of course, a wet sleeved engine, if that is where the leak is may be alot easier to fix. Sounds like you need an exact diagnosis and go from there keeping in mind a sophisticated machine shop.

RCHEdited by Rch on 05/03/01 10:05 AM (server time).

Anonymous Poster · May 3, 2001

I agree with allmobile, it's most likely the freeze plug behind the gear case. Seen this one before.

Palisade · May 3, 2001

Brian,

You are my hero, I could kiss you....Nah!

After wrenching for 5 hours we finally got the gear case cover off and ....the freeze plug had 3 holes in it. Yahoo! (I found a used block, but it was still close to a $1,000. And then I'd have to rebuild the entire engine.)

So, $3.75 for a freeze plug is a much better solution for now.

We ran a quick test, we took out the thermostat and poured some water into the pipe. We got plenty of water out of the freeze plug but nothing driped out of the oil pan. We took this as a good sign. We plan some more testing. I have a rubber plug for the water hole that feeds the water pump, and we'll install the new freeze plug. Then, re-install the thermostat and from the overflow tube we'll pump in some air to pressure the system, 10lbs or so. If it holds, we can eliminate a cracked block or head.

Thanks again.

And for those who wanted to know. The tractor is a 1988 or 1989, (best guess from serial numbers). The local dealer told me 10,000 is a normal life expectency for a 3 cylinder kubota engine, so 4100 didn't seem so bad.

Anonymous Poster · May 3, 2001

I could kiss you....

This... I've got to see.../w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Treat Brian to a Lobster and Steak dinner... for the entire family.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Nice work Brian!

GlueGuy · May 4, 2001

That's a real good deal. Was the freeze plug rusted through? If it was rusted (probably), then you might want to check any other freeze plugs before buttoning up. Might save you some further grief if another one is getting ready to go soon.... Since that engine is at least 10 years old or so, it's possible that the antifreeze wasn't changed often enough.

Brian: How many freeze plugs are there in that engine?

The GlueGuy

allmobile · May 4, 2001

I'd have to look in my manual for an exact number but I believe ther is the 1 behind the front cover, 3 under the valve cover in the cyl. head, and 3 on the starter side of the block.

Brian