Lower Radiator Hose Block Heater

[Brian (with an i)]

Sorry if this has been beaten to death but how effective are the lower radiator hose passive flow heaters? I am wanting to install a block heater kit on my emax 22s but not sure if the inline lower radiator hose type allows enough heat into the engine since it isn't pump driven like the circulating type. Is there an ideal location in the lower hose, like closer to the water pump or closer to the radiator? Does enough heat get into the engine to make it worthwhile? I know the freeze plug heater is probably better, but looking for something a little less invasive yet still effective. Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[KennyG]

I've had them on cars and they were very effective. You need to make sure when they are located so the heated water rises into the engine and not the radiator, but that's usually easy.

 

[Joe Hickerson]

Hi Brian, my dealer installed the inline on my eMax 25s and it works fine. I usually give it 20 minutes minimum but try to hit 40 minutes. At that point the cab heater starts quickly and the engine is smoother. Mine has the Daedong engine and is a bit cold blooded....

 

[CalG]

I put one on the Mitsubishi engined Hurlimann. It works GREAT!

That 1.5 liter K4F-D engine is entirely cold blooded. With the lower hose heater, The engine starts straight off after about 1/2 hour on electric power.
Below about 32 f, I don't even consider starting the tractor without the heater .

This tractor has some sort of "auto-magic" pre-heater control that just doesn't seem to do the job/

 

[Brian (with an i)]

Hi Brian, my dealer installed the inline on my eMax 25s and it works fine. I usually give it 20 minutes minimum but try to hit 40 minutes. At that point the cab heater starts quickly and the engine is smoother. Mine has the Daedong engine and is a bit cold blooded....

Yeah I have the Daedong as well and like me, it doesn't like the cold very much either! Have you had the issue I read about where the heater heats the coolant up enough that the ECU won't turn on the glow plugs because the coolant temp sensor reads an already warm engine? Even though the engine is "warm", it still needs the direct cylinder heat from the GPs, I have read. I suppose you could manually cycle the glow plugs via left key turn and hold, but not sure if that overrides the ECU/temp sensor lockout.

 

[Brian (with an i)]

I put one on the Mitsubishi engined Hurlimann. It works GREAT!

That 1.5 liter K4F-D engine is entirely cold blooded. With the lower hose heater, The engine starts straight off after about 1/2 hour on electric power.
Below about 32 f, I don't even consider starting the tractor without the heater .

This tractor has some sort of "auto-magic" pre-heater control that just doesn't seem to do the job/

Good to know it is working for you. Some folks say they've had no issues with cold starting (on the eMax 22) but mine is not a fan. I even replaced the glow plugs (which are all working) but unless I use both my 250watt heat lamps for 3-4 hours on the side of the block and under the oil pan and cycle the GPs half a dozen times, it really struggles to start below 32F. Fuel is good but she just hates being cold!

 

[Joe Hickerson]

Yeah I have the Daedong as well and like me, it doesn't like the cold very much either! Have you had the issue I read about where the heater heats the coolant up enough that the ECU won't turn on the glow plugs because the coolant temp sensor reads an already warm engine? Even though the engine is "warm", it still needs the direct cylinder heat from the GPs, I have read. I suppose you could manually cycle the glow plugs via left key turn and hold, but not sure if that overrides the ECU/temp sensor lockout.

Yes, the long story short, I would crank it a bit without the glow plugs coming on, stop cranking for a bit, then the plugs would come on. I think what would happen is introduction of cold air and cold fuel introduced to the engine cooled it enough to trick the plugs to come on.

 

[SimpleSimon]

Works great on my tractor, plugged in for an hour before starting means no sputtering or black smoke and fires right up.

 

[CalG]

Good to know it is working for you. Some folks say they've had no issues with cold starting (on the eMax 22) but mine is not a fan. I even replaced the glow plugs (which are all working) but unless I use both my 250watt heat lamps for 3-4 hours on the side of the block and under the oil pan and cycle the GPs half a dozen times, it really struggles to start below 32F. Fuel is good but she just hates being cold!

For starting, the important part to warm up is the HEAD.

Warmer water floats over cold, so a coolant hose is a great place to add heat to the head.

 

[Brian (with an i)]

Yes, the long story short, I would crank it a bit without the glow plugs coming on, stop cranking for a bit, then the plugs would come on. I think what would happen is introduction of cold air and cold fuel introduced to the engine cooled it enough to trick the plugs to come on.

Ok, I will test that. I did install the heater (Kats #16400) in the lower radiator hose tonight. I did manage to get the tractor started and ran it to temp to settle any air bubbles and top off the coolant, so I can't see if the heater helps cold starting until tomorrow. I did notice that after it was up to temp, the ECU does lock out the glow plugs even in the key left-turn manual GP position. Just for giggles, I unplugged the harness on the coolant temp sensor and that allowed the glow plugs to cycle even with a warm engine. The point is, I think if it becomes an issue with the heater warming up the temp sensor but still needing that extra heat from the glow plugs, I may wire up a switch on the dash to disable the temp sensor so I can still cycle the glow plugs when needed. I'll see how it goes first with just the heater.