Shortest hydraulic top link

[TMGT]

Surplus center has a top link cylinder that is 18 1/8" retracted with a working length of 8.25". It does have a lock valve so if you use float it won't work.
I have the cylinder and prefer the lock valve myself.

 

[TX mower]

Surplus center has a top link cylinder that is 18 1/8" retracted with a working length of 8.25". It does have a lock valve so if you use float it won't work.
I have the cylinder and prefer the lock valve myself.

Assuming you refer to this item 2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder | AMA | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com, do you see anything that would prohibit removal of the banjo fittings and lock valve assembly / using direct connection to the cylinder ports, if one wanted float control?

Is there any reason one can't or shouldn't use a 'generic' cylinder with swivel ball ends for a top link (or side link for that matter)? Just wondering if there's any reason to not use one of the swivel ball end cylinders on this page, for example, if we find diameter, length and stroke that seems to fit our requirements for top-and-tilt additions?

Please see https://www.surpluscenter.com/Catalog/Catalog291-059.pdf

Understanding that there's pros, cons, and preferences about locks vs float .... Brian has some IMHO interesting and compelling comments about it on his FitRite website tutorials page.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I had a custom one built by the guys that make cylinders for Wallenstein, cheaper and better than I could get at TSC in the US. So, if the dimensions are doable you can really have whatever you like.

 

[/pine]

...do you see anything that would prohibit removal of the banjo fittings and lock valve assembly / using direct connection to the cylinder ports, if one wanted float control?...

I recently was looking to connect a standard hydraulic fitting to one or the other ports on a cylinder that had the posts for banjo fittings and I could not find a typical fitting thread that would fit...
...I think they are straight threads that use crush washers but they are not a typical hydraulic fitting thread size...

I had intended to ask here on the forum about the thread size etc. but have been busy with other work...

 

[TMGT]

Assuming you refer to this item 2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder | AMA | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com, do you see anything that would prohibit removal of the banjo fittings and lock valve assembly / using direct connection to the cylinder ports, if one wanted float control?

Is there any reason one can't or shouldn't use a 'generic' cylinder with swivel ball ends for a top link (or side link for that matter)? Just wondering if there's any reason to not use one of the swivel ball end cylinders on this page, for example, if we find diameter, length and stroke that seems to fit our requirements for top-and-tilt additions?

Please see https://www.surpluscenter.com/Catalog/Catalog291-059.pdf

Understanding that there's pros, cons, and preferences about locks vs float .... Brian has some IMHO interesting and compelling comments about it on his FitRite website tutorials page.

That's the one, I can try to check the banjo bolt thread, a lot of banjo bolts I've found use a standard SAE straight thread. The cylinder from surplus center appears to be a European built as the tubing for the lock valve is metric and the inlet fittings on the lock valve are BSPP.

I will say the cylinder is very good quality and heavy built. As for using float, I've never needed it, the only implements I've used that needed some float on the top link have it built into the implement. I prefer the lock myself.

 

[/pine]

...I can try to check the banjo bolt thread, a lot of banjo bolts I've found use a standard SAE straight thread....

Please post a confirmation of this if possible...I tried a SAE thread and it stopped after about a turn and a half...the same fitting I was using threaded smoothly into a SAE/ORB port...it stopped about the same place in both the banjo fitting posts on the cyl....I did not want to damage either the fitting or the post so I just stopped and never did follow up...the cyl. is still sitting on the bench

 

[TMGT]

Please post a confirmation of this if possible...I tried a SAE thread and it stopped after about a turn and a half...the same fitting I was using threaded smoothly into a SAE/ORB port...it stopped about the same place in both the banjo fitting posts on the cyl....I did not want to damage either the fitting or the post so I just stopped and never did follow up...the cyl. is still sitting on the bench

Do you have the cylinder from SC?

 

[/pine]

Do you have the cylinder from SC?

No, actually the cyl. I have is from the outfit (partnership) that is now 'Hay Tools'...don't ask me what I think of their product...!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No, actually the cyl. I have is from the outfit (partnership) that is now 'Hay Tools'...don't ask me what I think of their product...!

You have 3/8" British pipe thread in the 2 cylinder ports.

 

[TMGT]

Well I did some quick measuring and mine appear to be a 3/8-19 BSPP which would make sense based on the other fittings

 

[/pine]

You have 3/8" British pipe thread in the 2 cylinder ports.

Thanks Brian...any idea what the size or # of the cyl. end cap o-ring is ??

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks Brian...any idea what the size or # of the cyl. end cap o-ring is ??

Depends on the bore of the cylinder. It actually leaks around where the cap screws in? I would just get whatever the bore size is by .060 " dia (guessing). That should work as long as you are talking about the o-ring that is on the cap and seals on the inside edge of the end of the cylinder.

 

[/pine]

Depends on the bore of the cylinder. It actually leaks around where the cap screws in? I would just get whatever the bore size is by .060 " dia (guessing). That should work as long as you are talking about the o-ring that is on the cap and seals on the inside edge of the end of the cylinder.

Yes that is the o-ring...but it is very small dia....when it started leaking I could barely find anything left of it (the original o-ring) I never could find one locally that stopped the leak entirely...the place I got from wanted $5 for the o-ring and another $3 for shipping!
It's a 2" bore cyl.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes that is the o-ring...but it is very small dia....when it started leaking I could barely find anything left of it (the original o-ring) I never could find one locally that stopped the leak entirely...the place I got from wanted $5 for the o-ring and another $3 for shipping!
It's a 2" bore cyl.

This is the main outlet for the manufacturer of those units. Contact them and see what they will do for you. I know that you didn't purchase it from them, but it did come from them. See if they might help you out. One of those things, you don't know if you don't ask. I sort of doubt it, but it won't hurt to ask.