Should I buy this 425?

   / Should I buy this 425? #21  
On the grease jerks, make sure you get the u-joints inside the inside of the wheel wells, and the center pivot on the 4WS.

And I didn't think you could put wheel weights on the AWS models. At least that is what I was told by the dealer in '94, because the rims are basically inside out. So, that's a new one for me. Anyhow, I'd leave them on. Won't hurt the tractor at all, and not enough weight to bother you lawn as long as you don't use chains in the yard.
 
   / Should I buy this 425?
  • Thread Starter
#22  
I did hit the king-pin on the rear wheels (top zerk) above the u-joints. Is there a zerk in the u-joint? I'm use to one being in the U-joint on a bush-hog PTO shaft, but I couldn't find one on the 425. I did get the center pivot. I did forget the drive shaft zerk for the deck though.

On Friday I picked up trans oil, filter, coolant, two valve cover gaskets and ordered a new pulley. The pulley which was loose was a bit wallowed from being loose. Figured I'd get a new one. The spindle has a bit of play, but free wheels good with no noise. I'm going to run it till I need it. Didn't work on it today. Had other things going on and will tackle it all at once.

The weights might make it ride better. I'll mow with it a couple of times with them on and then off and see if I can tell a difference.
 
   / Should I buy this 425? #23  
Your tractor doesn't have the plastic cam. I have a 445 (same as the 425 - except it is fuel injected). John Deere changed the graphics on the hood the same year they changed the cam gear to steel. The "more yellow" John Deere logo on your hood shows it is newer. You got an exceptional deal! I have over 2400 hours on my JD 445 - I had to put new head gaskets on it at about 2200 hours (symptom was hard starting because coolant weeping into combustion chamber) and continue to love this thing. I did just pick up a project x485 - and in some ways I like the 445 better (less plastic!).

If you have snow blowing needs, this thing is a beast. The 2 stage blower doesn't come cheaply, even on Craigslist you will likely pay as much as you did for your tractor, but it does a great job.

Enjoy the heck out of this thing!
 
   / Should I buy this 425?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Thanks for that bit of info. I had not noticed differences in graphics. I'm really enjoying it. I got the pulley and belt on this Saturday. I mowed over 2 hours with it mulching leaves and cutting more grass than I usually cut. It did great! I love the all wheel steer around the trees. I'll change out all the fluids before next season.

After I mowed, I gunked the engine and washed it off. Also removed the battery, cleaned the pan, terminals and front with baking soda and water. I then repainted the pan and put in a newer battery. Can't wait to mow with it again.
 
   / Should I buy this 425? #25  
Sounds like the zero turn is off the wish list. Excellent score, good luck with the machine.
 
   / Should I buy this 425?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thanks! Zero turn is off the list for several years. The zero turn I wanted was $12k. This mower cost me $1500. I washed my L120 up Saturday, put it on the classifieds at work yesterday for $700 and within two hours had a guy buy it for $650. So I'm in this 425 for around $850 with my L120 trade. This 425 should last me years more than the 120 will. Even though the L120 was running great, I just didn't trust it for much longer with the increased work-load it had.
 
   / Should I buy this 425?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Cool. The more I use this tractor the more I like it. I changed out the valve cover gaskets Thursday eve and mulched leaves on sat. She ran great!
 

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