JimMorrissey
Veteran Member
Yep, that'll work. You might find that once you cut and loosen the soil a bit with the BB you can come in straight at the ditch where the culvert will go and reduce you hand work somewhat. -You'll figure it out.
Should I do it myself?
- Thread starter sendero
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JimMorrissey
Veteran Member
Big hydraulic ones with rear wheels maybe, but not a regular old "rear blade". I've used both and disagree. A rear blade might be good for dropping into and cleaning out an existing ditch, but not for making one and then moving a lot of soil.
I'd use the BB to gather the soil in question, then use the FEL to transport it. Don't try to drag soil any distance. A rear blade is not the tool of choice to move soil.
Rear blade vs. BB......lots of discussion on this topic. You need to decide what is better for long term use. BB is best for long term road maintenace. Not sure what a rear blade is good for aside from pushing those pesky 2" snowfalls or cleaning up after a storm /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I'd use the BB to gather the soil in question, then use the FEL to transport it. Don't try to drag soil any distance. A rear blade is not the tool of choice to move soil.
Rear blade vs. BB......lots of discussion on this topic. You need to decide what is better for long term use. BB is best for long term road maintenace. Not sure what a rear blade is good for aside from pushing those pesky 2" snowfalls or cleaning up after a storm /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Sendero,
A box blade has a few good uses. It's an affordable tool for maintaining a gravel driveway, it will smooth out some small rough spots in a field and it makes a good place to store things on top of. Otherwise, it's not really worth the effort.
You said you have a FEL. Dig the hole with that. If it's a little wide, that's fine. Your FEL will dig much better then a box blade ever will. If you need teeth on it, that's something you'll always appreciate.
The box blade will move a little dirt around, but not nearly as well as your front bucket. Remember, the box blade is for "SMOOTHING" soil and gravel.
After you put the culvert in, then it's real easy to cover and spread with your fell. I think the FEL is a great spreader for dirt. It shapes the contour just as you want it and gives you a little compaction. Driving over the loose soil with a load of dirt in your bucket also helps get compaction.
I like to back drag my piles real thin with the back part of the bucket and use the bottom part for shaping. By the time I'm done, there is no settling and I get the results I'm looking for.
This is a fun, simple easy project that shouldn't cost you anything more then the culvert.
A 12 inch culvert here in East Texas will run around $110 for a plactic one with a smooth inside. I like them allot better then metal ones. Metal will rust in time, they get dented and the ends usually start to look a little too rustic for me after a few years. Plastic will look just like the day you bought it 20 years from now.
Eddie
A box blade has a few good uses. It's an affordable tool for maintaining a gravel driveway, it will smooth out some small rough spots in a field and it makes a good place to store things on top of. Otherwise, it's not really worth the effort.
You said you have a FEL. Dig the hole with that. If it's a little wide, that's fine. Your FEL will dig much better then a box blade ever will. If you need teeth on it, that's something you'll always appreciate.
The box blade will move a little dirt around, but not nearly as well as your front bucket. Remember, the box blade is for "SMOOTHING" soil and gravel.
After you put the culvert in, then it's real easy to cover and spread with your fell. I think the FEL is a great spreader for dirt. It shapes the contour just as you want it and gives you a little compaction. Driving over the loose soil with a load of dirt in your bucket also helps get compaction.
I like to back drag my piles real thin with the back part of the bucket and use the bottom part for shaping. By the time I'm done, there is no settling and I get the results I'm looking for.
This is a fun, simple easy project that shouldn't cost you anything more then the culvert.
A 12 inch culvert here in East Texas will run around $110 for a plactic one with a smooth inside. I like them allot better then metal ones. Metal will rust in time, they get dented and the ends usually start to look a little too rustic for me after a few years. Plastic will look just like the day you bought it 20 years from now.
Eddie
RedRocker
Veteran Member
I've had pretty good luck with mine and I'm new at it too. It's just common sense in adjusting the blade. If it's cutting too deep, adjust the toplink out, if you need to cut deeper on one side or the other, adjust the side link accordingly. I managed to make my road driveable and it's rock with a little dirt thrown in for good measure.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
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- 18,563
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- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
To bury a 12" culvert 8", I would expect one would have to go down at least 20" with the ditch to drop it into. Cover the culvert back with 8" of fill and then build up 6" over that, is what I read into your first post and recommendation from the 'official'.
/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif And I think its a 'borrow' pit, like borrowing money from the bank, you will 'borrow' some dirt from the side of the road. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Hopefully you have a FEL and a bucket to help you with this. Doesn't sound like you do.
I for sure would recommend you try this, as with 40 acres and a tractor, knowing what future projects will be like, learning what you can do and cannot just as well happen now.
Having a sight level or a water tube level will be real useful, to create a ditch leading to the culvert, the culvert, and then a ditch going away from the culvert -all with a slope that will drain water which only flows downhill - will be important.
/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif And I think its a 'borrow' pit, like borrowing money from the bank, you will 'borrow' some dirt from the side of the road. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Hopefully you have a FEL and a bucket to help you with this. Doesn't sound like you do.
I for sure would recommend you try this, as with 40 acres and a tractor, knowing what future projects will be like, learning what you can do and cannot just as well happen now.
Having a sight level or a water tube level will be real useful, to create a ditch leading to the culvert, the culvert, and then a ditch going away from the culvert -all with a slope that will drain water which only flows downhill - will be important.
steveinmo
Silver Member
sendero,
Eddie's right on the money. I just completed a similar project at our new house (without the culvert). The contractor had done the final grade and directed the water around the house to the walk out on the end. That's also where the septic tank is. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I re-directed the water the other way -away from the house and septic - to a natural run off area. Dug the trench with the FEL. Then used the FEL to slope the sides. Then used the BB to clean it all up and smooth it out.
Like Eddie said, dig the trench with the FEL, lay the culvert, cover it up. I would then use a BB to smooth it to the contour you want. That way you get the new tool too! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Steve
Eddie's right on the money. I just completed a similar project at our new house (without the culvert). The contractor had done the final grade and directed the water around the house to the walk out on the end. That's also where the septic tank is. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I re-directed the water the other way -away from the house and septic - to a natural run off area. Dug the trench with the FEL. Then used the FEL to slope the sides. Then used the BB to clean it all up and smooth it out.
Like Eddie said, dig the trench with the FEL, lay the culvert, cover it up. I would then use a BB to smooth it to the contour you want. That way you get the new tool too! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Steve
Can you get to all sides on the 'borrow' ditch? If so you may even get by with just your FEL, especially if you have a tooth bar.
No matter, though, even if you end up having to rent, borrow, or buy a box blade - YOU CAN DO IT!
One of my first projects was to install culvert in two different locations on my property - probably took me a little longer than an expert /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif but I got it done.
I used the FEL to dig ditch for culvert, lift culvert into ditch, and drag/backfill around and over culvert.
Give it a try - you will be glad you did /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
No matter, though, even if you end up having to rent, borrow, or buy a box blade - YOU CAN DO IT!
One of my first projects was to install culvert in two different locations on my property - probably took me a little longer than an expert /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif but I got it done.
I used the FEL to dig ditch for culvert, lift culvert into ditch, and drag/backfill around and over culvert.
Give it a try - you will be glad you did /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
I'll offer this. If you have access to a plow, this can be made easier. Plow down and back throwing the furrows outward. Then use your BB. Just as a reminder, (and it is unfortunate for me why I would think this), be sure to retract your teeth on the BB before you backfill and dress up!
Thanks for all the advice guys, I'm reading it all twice /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Yes I do have a FEL on my tractor. I've not found it a great tool for smoothing large areas of dirt, but I have managed to do some of that kind of work with it. If you are working whhere you can keep your wheels on level ground, well that helps a lot.
The FEL probably will work fine for digging the culvert trench.
But as I've said, the big job is raising the road 8" or so. Some kind of blade has got to be better than a bucket !
Yes I do have a FEL on my tractor. I've not found it a great tool for smoothing large areas of dirt, but I have managed to do some of that kind of work with it. If you are working whhere you can keep your wheels on level ground, well that helps a lot.
The FEL probably will work fine for digging the culvert trench.
But as I've said, the big job is raising the road 8" or so. Some kind of blade has got to be better than a bucket !
Bird
Rest in Peace
Billy, I'm afraid I was a bit slow in learning to properly use a box blade, but eventually got it. However, when I added the hydraulic top 'n tilt to my tractor, I could do the jobs I wanted to do in a lot less than half the time it took before. I've watched some people who were good with one without the top 'n tilt, but I also know they had many years experience. If you just buy a box blade and start out to do the job you're talking about, I really suspect that you're in for a lot of frustration, but when you do get over that, you'll be glad you bought the box blade.
