should I get a BX?

[Matt_Jr]

BX25?

 

[LBrown59]

BX25
?

Yep it replaces the BX24 me thinks..

 

[cajunInExile]

Thanks for all the replies, and the videos on YouTube were a big help. I'll have to research "Pat's Quick Change" for the MMM.

Another question about mowing, If you are mowing in 2WD with turf tires, I'm assuming the back axle is not locked, and you aren't tearing up the grass in tight turns.

I've got a 4WD Arctic Cat Prowler that is not so kind to the lawn if you forget you are in 4WD and you start making tight turns on the grass. I just wanted to make sure that wasn't the case with these tractors.

Is there a Diff Lock Rear Switch? Diff Lock Front-to-Back?

I'd like to understand the 2WD/4WD/Locking options.

 

[txkevin]

BX25?

BX 25 is the newest model. Price increases about $2k over the BX 24 including the now "optional" 3 pt hitch.

For the extra 2K you get...

- buckets that move at idle instead of kicking your idle up just a bit
- metal hood, fenders etc. Bx 24 had some plastic parts on it. Tractor purists seem to hate this unless you deal with a lot of salt.
- And the biggest fix, they removed the "jerk" that is found in the BX 24 when stopping in reverse. It is controlable with technique but it is certainly there. This can be annoying.

Other than that, there is no performance or power difference that I am aware of.

BX 24s should be about $15K plus tax and add about $2k for the new 25's.

 

[txkevin]

Another question about mowing, If you are mowing in 2WD with turf tires, I'm assuming the back axle is not locked, and you aren't tearing up the grass in tight turns.

I'd like to understand the 2WD/4WD/Locking options.

Be aware that I believe the BX has potential to "run away" on steep hills in 2wd. I have always been advised to mow .. especially on hills in 4 wd which gives better stopping control for some reason.

 

[Volfandt]

The BX's have semi-slip rearends meaning that on tight turns the inside wheel "slips" while the drive torque is shifted to the outside wheel. Same type planetary gears as found in an automobile.
There is a separate rear wheel "locker" pedal. It locks both rear drive wheels together when depressed, as in positive traction. *do not depress this with the wheels spinning*

There is also a separate "4 wheel drive" lever which engages power to the front wheels. In all actuality, you probably only end up with 3 wheel drive ( one rear and two fronts) unless the rear locker pedal is then depressed.
There is "some" slip in the front differentials when engaged but not much as the BX will not turn as sharply in 4WD and damage could occur to the turf on sharp turns in 4wd.

I generally mow in 2wd high and I have turf tires. This gives me max speed and the ability to nearly turn on a dime without damaging my turf. When I encounter soft mud I'll give the locker 1st shot and if that doesn't get me out then I go to 4wd. I've yet to get stuck, but have come MIGHTY close

 

[KeithInSpace]

I've done a little different than Mr. Volfandt when faced with a low-traction situation...I normally engage 4WD in those situations and let the rear wheels do what they may, but it is TOTALLY situational. Example: I have a particular location in my grass where I'm mowing around something, it is very steep, and is always wet. In 4WD I don't tear up anything...it's great. But I've never engaged 4WD to get me out of a situation in which I was already stuck in 2WD...I'm ALREADY in 4WD and never miss a beat.

As far as going down slopes with a loaded FEL, I am careful to recognize those situations and engage 4WD because she CAN get away from you. Sometimes, I ferry around my dirt/mulch and only engage 4WD when I approach the offending slope. Other times, when a particular slope is invariably in the way, I'll leave it in 4WD and be careful not to make sharp turns to not put undue stress on the front axle drivetrain.

I have never gotten stuck or been threatened to be stuck. I was in some bogs in backwoods North Carolina once and swore I'd be in trouble...not that I wasn't worried (mostly because I didn't have a "recovery" plan as the terrain was inaccessible by assist vehicle) but it never threatened to get stuck even when up to the axles in muck. Simply amazing.

You have to do something silly to mess up your grass when using the turf tires, no matter how hard you turn or what you're carrying.

 

[sw03]

Most everything I would've said has been said. One thing I'd add though is that the BH and FEL are not light weight and, in my opinion, should be removed for mowing to reduce the weight of the machine on the lawn. Not a big deal for your rough 2 acres but if the 1.5 is in nice shape, you don't want all that extra weight compacting the soil every time you mow.

And yes, the BH and FEL come off pretty fast. The BXpanded dolly is well worth the money to make the BH even easier and faster plus maneuverable while dismounted.

1) I agree, THe FEL and BH SHOULD come off for mowing; if you want a nice cut.

2) BXpanded is nice but overprice in my book. For years on this forum, like 4+ years, you can make one for 50+% less then theres.

 

[Matt_Jr]

Wow! That bx25 sure sounds nice. Is 2 years too soon for an upgrade? How come I can't find this thing on kubota's site?

 

[txkevin]

1)
2) BXpanded is nice but overprice in my book. For years on this forum, like 4+ years, you can make one for 50+% less then theres.

That is typically how I feel when I go to a craft show. I walk around saying " Are you kidding, I could make one of those in a few hours for half the price"... Then I never quite get around to it....