Should I upgrade my factory receiver to avoid needing WD?

[wrflt]

My experience with trailer salesmen taught me at least one thing. They know how to sell trailers, not much about towing. I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, but that was my experience.

The WD's are made for trailer towing. Doesn't matter if the trailer has a camper on top of it or a #6000 tractor with a #1200 harrow and an atv. The WD distributes the weight evenly between the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle and the axles of the trailer. This, along with a sway control device provides for a much safer towing experience.

I have this setup on my 20' flatbed which I use to haul my tractor and equipment. The snap up brackets would not work as designed on my particular trailer because of it's design, but I simply cut the top lip of the brackets off and welded them to the tongue. Works like a champ, and really provides a MUCH smoother ride.

I was speed reading all your replies and may have missed someone else offering another tip, but i didn't see anything about your trailers' axle capacity. This is a very important point to regard.

 

[FlaDon]

My experience with trailer salesmen taught me at least one thing. They know how to sell trailers, not much about towing. I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings, but that was my experience.

The WD's are made for trailer towing. Doesn't matter if the trailer has a camper on top of it or a #6000 tractor with a #1200 harrow and an atv. The WD distributes the weight evenly between the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle and the axles of the trailer. This, along with a sway control device provides for a much safer towing experience.

I have this setup on my 20' flatbed which I use to haul my tractor and equipment. The snap up brackets would not work as designed on my particular trailer because of it's design, but I simply cut the top lip of the brackets off and welded them to the tongue. Works like a champ, and really provides a MUCH smoother ride.

I was speed reading all your replies and may have missed someone else offering another tip, but i didn't see anything about your trailers' axle capacity. This is a very important point to regard.

Some of the older brackets were designed to be bolted to the trailer's frame. But the newer Reese type will fit most trailers. My 1ton's hitch is rated only 600 lbs tongue load/5000 lb pull when non-WD. 1000 when WD and 10K pull. On a 7000 lb trailer, it would exceed the ratings if non-WD. If loaded, I travel with between 700 and 1 k on the tongue. No shimmy or sway even empty as it carries about 350 on a 2500 total.

 

[RobertN]

Usually I would agree. But, it still depends on the truck.

My Grandfather bought a GMC 3/4 ton long bed with extra 6" extension(was some kind of camper package) new in in 1969. 396, T400, 2wd, and decent gears. I would run that truck against the newer ones. Talk about grunt power! I have hauled similar loads in that truck years ago, in my Dodge diesel(heaven forbid it is 9 years old now). It did not have an OD, so gas mileage was poor. And, I just would not want a standard cab again.

On the other hand, my Dad had a 1976 Chevy "Heavy Half" 1500 4x4, 350 and granny 4spd. That truck was a wimp with anything in the bed; it was easy to load down. And, that 350 got worse mileage than the older GMC with 396 and auto. It was an ok truck when empty, or just a couple dirt bikes in the back.

My cousin in Montana has that GMC. It did have an engine rebuild some years back, after his sister ran it low on oil... No fault of the truck.

This was the case 30 years ago but today's trucks are so much heavier and to win bragging rights they keep upping the capacities.

 

[Diamondpilot]

There is always exceptions to the rule. Those old Camper Specials were tough trucks. I remember a friends dad had one. It was a Ford with a 460 and that was a tough old truck.

Your example of the Heavy Half 350 powered granny gear truck is more on par with what was being put out in the 80's They were good trucks for the time but do not hold a candle to today's worst truck.

Chris

 

[Hematite]

LtCheg:

There are a LOT of reasons why WD is better for the truck and trailer, both, while towing. A lot of dealers of equipment trailers are not savvy about WD, which is unfortunate. Some equipment trailers have a too short tongue or an enclosed tongue to accomodate a WD setup. Be mindful of that when shopping trailers.

Although for short trips, as you describe, built in antisway is not as necessary, I would suggest going with a square trunnion bar Reese WD setup. That way, if you ever buy a TT or need to tow further, you have the option of having built in sway control by adding the Dual Cam arms. I already had the Reese DCWD on my TT so it was an easy add to put the DC bars on the trailer. To say that distance towing a properly set up DCWD equipped trailer is a pleasure is a BIG understatement. For over the road towing it is absolutely incredible with the truck and trailer "locked" into a single, incredibly balanced, stable unit by the Dual Cams. This is the DC add on unit on my car/ equipment trailer, on the lower left:

 

[scotty088]

Safety and the fact that my family is riding in this truck makes me realize that the extra weight of the chassis and the bigger brakes as well as the extra payload offered by a 250/350 Superduty truck is the key issue here.The RV dealer will tell you anything to sell you a product.I'm a 35 year truck driver.I can tell you of many horrific accidents i've seen over the years from overloaded trailers and improperly secured loads.I only wish the D.O.T. and state police would enforce general public rules on these issues further to make the roads safer for all. Just my thoughts....
Scotty

 

[FlaDon]

LtCheg:

There are a LOT of reasons why WD is better for the truck and trailer, both, while towing. A lot of dealers of equipment trailers are not savvy about WD, which is unfortunate. Some equipment trailers have a too short tongue or an enclosed tongue to accomodate a WD setup. Be mindful of that when shopping trailers.

Although for short trips, as you describe, built in antisway is not as necessary, I would suggest going with a square trunnion bar Reese WD setup. That way, if you ever buy a TT or need to tow further, you have the option of having built in sway control by adding the Dual Cam arms. I already had the Reese DCWD on my TT so it was an easy add to put the DC bars on the trailer. To say that distance towing a properly set up DCWD equipped trailer is a pleasure is a BIG understatement. For over the road towing it is absolutely incredible with the truck and trailer "locked" into a single, incredibly balanced, stable unit by the Dual Cams. This is the DC add on unit on my car/ equipment trailer, on the lower left:

Yep. When the WD is on it so much smoother a ride. Except on some bridges and the WVTpk. Wheelbase of truck and trailer play a factor in those cases.

 

[firefighter jim]

LtCheg:

There are a LOT of reasons why WD is better for the truck and trailer, both, while towing. A lot of dealers of equipment trailers are not savvy about WD, which is unfortunate. Some equipment trailers have a too short tongue or an enclosed tongue to accomodate a WD setup. Be mindful of that when shopping trailers.

Although for short trips, as you describe, built in antisway is not as necessary, I would suggest going with a square trunnion bar Reese WD setup. That way, if you ever buy a TT or need to tow further, you have the option of having built in sway control by adding the Dual Cam arms. I already had the Reese DCWD on my TT so it was an easy add to put the DC bars on the trailer. To say that distance towing a properly set up DCWD equipped trailer is a pleasure is a BIG understatement. For over the road towing it is absolutely incredible with the truck and trailer "locked" into a single, incredibly balanced, stable unit by the Dual Cams. This is the DC add on unit on my car/ equipment trailer, on the lower left:

Hematite, I'm all for wd hitches. Do you find that you need the sway control on equipment trailers? Jim

 

[Hematite]

Jim,
I had the Dual Cam on the travel trailer, so I went with it for the equip. trailer. Is it necessary? Hard to say since I don't know if there would be a sway problem without it. Because it enhances directional stability so much, I went that way anyway.

I have to say that since I've used the Reese DCWD on the TT I'm sold on it for every towing purpose. Both trailers, once on the road with this setup, are so unitized to the truck that, except for hills, there really is no sensation from the trailer. In an emergency manuever, I'm confident that the DC's would maintain that very important stability.That, along with the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller, make me a very happy camper!