Sickle Bar Sickle advice for rookie?

   / Sickle advice for rookie? #11  
I agree with rbergeron that the New Holland 451 is the best choice because the knife drive (the most troublesome and expensive part of the mower) is simple and easy to check for condition. To give credit where it is due, the knife drive mechanism was actually invented in the mid 1800's by a Russian mathematician named Pufnuttii Chebyshev who was looking for an arrangement of arms and levers that would convert rotary motion to straight line motion without slides, cross-heads, etc.

I first experienced the NH drive on the farm many years ago and when I needed a sickle mower for some rural land I bought I first looked at the NH. I was turned off by the price of a new one ($8,000) and the attitude of the nearest NH dealer. So I looked quite a while for a used one, but the local ones (Craig's List and the State Farmers Monthly) were snapped up pretty quick. I talked to Mr. Sweet, but he couldn't seem to keep one in stock long enough for me to buy it.

Then a John Deere 350 came up nearby on EBay and I bought it. The JD was my second choice because the knife drive mechanism (known as a "wobble box" because of the motion of the principal part) is more complicated than the NH, more difficult to inspect without a teardown, and has four proprietary parts vs one (or maybe two) for the NH.

I got lucky and the JD turned out to be a good buy ($2,000). JD still carries every part for it, and my local JD dealer is very good to work with. So I am satisfied with the JD 350 (so much that I bought a second one from the same seller).

I dissasembled the JD wobble box and inspected it carefully. I am satisfied that with proper maintenance (greasing) the proprietary parts will outlast me.

If defense of JD (and International Harvester, Massey Ferguson, and some others) who use the wobble box design, the complexity allows it, in theory, to eliminate all vibration, while the NH design is like a one cylinder engine, the very best you can do is size the counterweights so the vibration is evenly divided between the vertical and horizontal planes.

Prices are crazy. If a knowledgeable seller is involved, a good NH451 or JD 350 will bring $1,500-$2,000. But you occasionally see one for half that, and those usually sell very quickly.

Finally, I bought the three point hitch (JD 350; NH 451) vs the pull type (JD 450,; NH 456?) because I like the increased maneuverabily. The disadvantage of the TPH models are greater time to hook up and significant offset weight on the tractor. That should not be a problem for a MF 135, but I don't think a compact utility tractor has enough weight or strength to deal with the offset load.

Pretty much agree. I wish I had the JD450 for ease of hookup. Installing my JD350 is tough by myself. It is tough to do without some swearing.

If you look at the JD 350/450, make sure the wobble components are in good shape. Meaning not too much play.

I use mine for my pond. Our pond has 3200 feet of waterline. (2 tributaries). So with a bit of experience at this, I highly recommend a 9 footer. Don't even think about a 7 footer unless the slope on your pond is less than 4 feet. You need to keep your tractor out of the water and on top of the slope as much as possible.
 
   / Sickle advice for rookie? #12  
I'm a fan of the New Holland 451. It has a brilliantly simple knife drive (no pitman), and it uses the up and down motion of the tractor's 3-point hitch to multiply the lift of the bar (no hydraulics needed). Also it can be assembled/adjusted off-center to be outside rear tires that are set wide. Most 451's have 7 foot bars, but some have 9 footers. Good luck with your search. DickB

My MF41 sicklebar has a similar mechanism to lift the bar to about a 30 deg up angle.

DSCF0024 (Small).JPG

It's the gizmo attached to the right hitch pin in this photo.
 
   / Sickle advice for rookie?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks again for the advice - my budget keeps me scanning the classifieds (limiting me to what's available vs what's best)! A Ford 515 popped up for $375 (says good condition, used for past 4 years to cut hay). Before I even reply & find out the length, etc. I wanted to ensure this model would work with my MF 135 (I finally got off the pot and bought it)? I found a manual on line, but only talks about its use with Ford tractors. I know a guy who is familiar enough with sickles to help me make sure the knives/guards are set properly. I guess I better ask if the 515 is manageable enough to get off & on by myself too.

Kyle - I'd agree with the 9 footer, but even at 7 I think I'd be able to get the water-side of the dam from a safe distance. And I wasn't sure if anything past 7 foot would be pushing the horsepower of the 135 (38 on the PTO I believe). I found the 135 is wide/stable enough to get me over at least one pass on the steeper side of the dam & the sickle could get me another 4+ feet before I chicken out and break off - I'm still teaching myself the trick of applying the high side brake & digging in with the low!
 
   / Sickle advice for rookie? #14  
"I talked to Mr. Sweet, but he couldn't seem to keep one in stock long enough for me to buy it."




Good news, we have back inh stock, 2 #451 mowers in stock. 1 of them is almost new at $2850. I have 2 IH #1300 (same as Ford #515) and 1 MF 41 extra nice. I almost forgot, I have a JD 350 with catagory 2 hitch for $995. Ken Sweet
 
 

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