Siezed clutch

[Krid]

I have a Case 956XL tractor (95hp 6 cylinder 6 litre) that was submerged in a flood. Drained and new oil and it is going well again except the clutch is siezed. Repair man said drive it and clutch will release when warm. Not so, many hours later and clutch is stuck. I park on a slope and crunch into gear once moving. Is there a remedy to free the siezed clutch other than an expensive pull apart and pry loose?

 

[banjodunn]

G'day Krid and :welcome: do you have a scarifier or heavy implement that you can drop into the ground? If so then when you get it moving then drop this into the ground and make it work while you have the clutch pedal down it may break free with the load on it I have found that it helps sometimes to pump the pedal up and down while you are going as the pressure/release sometimes helps with breaking the clutch free. If it does come free then slip the clutch a little a couple of seconds at a time to clean the rust off the plate/flywheel.

If not then I'm afraid your only other option is to split it


Jon

 

[Krid]

Jon,
Thanks for your advice.
I have been towing a seven tyne 'stump-jump' for a number of hours to no avail so far.
If it has worked for you previously I will persevere for a while yet.
I have pumped the clutch while operating occasionally but will do so more frequently.
Once again your response appreciated.
Dirk.

 

[MIKE R]

I have broke clutch free by chaining the tractor to a stump and letting it pull with the clutch disengaged. Same principle as Jon stated.

 

[Krid]

Mike,
Thanks for your advice. I do have a 20 metre long 16 ton break chain that I can use. Will tow 'stump-jump' around some more and the clutch does not free I will apply your suggestion.
Dirk.

 

[MIKE R]

Just be ready to kill the tractor if the front end lifts or it can go over backwards.

 

[Krid]

Mike,
Good advice. A tractor almost rolled over om me as a kid if not for a desperate attempt to get on top of the clutch.
I expect if I keep the revs down the engine will stall.
Dirk.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The only way you can get greater than engine torque to the clutch is to use a hi enuf gear to cause the engine to stall quickly.

 

[petes]

Look to see if there is an access plate in the bellhousing that'd allow you to pry on the clutch plate without splitting the tractor. I got lucky on my IH B275. After a few hours of holding the clutch and stomping the brakes and driving around in top gears to no avail, I found an access plate in the bellhousing that allowed accessing an angled hole in the flywheel that a rod could be inserted into (from the front) and levered to pop the clutch disc free. Said a few thanks to an engineer for thinking of that 60 years ago!

 

[woodlandfarms]

I know Brisbane isn't Sydney but I thought your whole country is in the grips of a drought.

 

[Krid]

Spyderlk,
Thanks for your advice. I will try higher gear if it gets to the pull against a tree stage.
Dirk.

 

[Krid]

Woodlandfarms,
You are right. Large parts of Oz is in drought and some bush fires still rage. On the other hand we had floods in the early part of each of the last three years in Southeast Queensland.
Dirk.

 

[ultrarunner]

I've always been able to free them up by working them...

Driving around with the clutch depressed... sometimes in minutes and other times after hours.

A tear down would be my last resort.

Do realize there is a small chance the friction material will break or separate and need to be replaced.

 

[Krid]

Petes,
I will check on your hint. The service agent did not mention anything to that effect so it may not be an option or alternatively he may not have been aware (if there is such an access hole).
I do have the Parts Catalog an User Manual for the machine but have not come across a mention of an access hole but will check again.
Dirk.

 

[Krid]

Ultrarunner,
I will persist with towing implement for a while yet. Must have spent about 20 hours so far in driving with foot on clutch to no avail. Thanks for making me aware of the likely damage. Will this call for a split of the tractor in any case?
Dirk.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Most everything has a flywheel/clutch inspection plate that I have seen. If all else fails before I replaced it I would try to soak it with PB Blaster or other penetrating fluid. I think most of it would burn off quickly if it worked.

 

[Kernopelli]

I too was going to suggest inspection plate access. If no plate is there, you may be able to remove the starter and access the clutch plate from that vantage.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I've always been able to free them up by working them...

Driving around with the clutch depressed... sometimes in minutes and other times after hours.

A tear down would be my last resort.

Do realize there is a small chance the friction material will break or separate and need to be replaced.

Lots of throwout wear in a short time. Probably should only clutch in hi load instances where its most likely to break free.

OP, are you blocking the clutch when parked? That cooling cycle with spring force removed cant hurt. ... Also, maybe mentioned, rocking the tractor back and forth with another tractor will give torque reversals that should help work it free -- esp combined with the thermal cycling.
larry

 

[Krid]

Gale,
Thanks for your suggestion to use penetrating fluid. I will check for access and apply if I can.
Dirk.

 

[Krid]

Darryl,
Just had the starter rebuild recently (due to flood damage). I should have thought of your idea to use this as access before the auto-electrician fitted the starter. May have to pull starter off if other remedies do not solve my problem.
Dirk.