Silverado Front Hub Assembly

[Diamondpilot]

I have not seen a auto bearing made in the last 10 plus years that you can repack. All the ones I see are sealed units that simply bolt on to the spindle assembly.

All my trailers still use the same old roller bearing and race assemblies that can be serviced.

Chris

 

[czechsonofagun]

Be sure to torque the axle nut to spec. I have seen many new bearings fail whithin a year or so because somebody got carried away with an impact wrench, which overloads the bearing. I have been guilty of this myself in my novice years, and have even seen dealer techs do it to cheat the flat rate. I still take the nut off with an impact, and even run it down till it barely touches during reassembly, BUT I ALWAYS TORQUE IT WITH A TORQUE WRENCH, after I have wire brushed and cleaned the threads.

Amen to that. On my CJ7 I repack front bearings once a year and they last (almost) forever. Of course I use torque wrench

 

[allen in texas]

Diesel Place


Check this out.
Everything you ever wanted to know

 

[Ryan03]

The newer sealed bearings in todays cars and trucks are not serviceable [greasable]. They are not a preloadable tapered bearing style, they are a flat race design, most having a single outer race anywhere from 3 to 5 inches wide, and 2 inner races with 2 sets of balls and cages , with one on each respective end, with rubber seals on each end between the inner and outer race. These bearings are then pressed into a cast [usualy iron, but sometimes aluminum] housing from one direction only and retained with a large internal snap ring. This assembly, which normaly also houses the antilock brake wheel speed sensor, then bolts to the steering knuckle assembly, this bearing holder also has a collar that is a press fit to the hole in the knuckle to aid the bolts in holding the bearing to the knuckle. The drive axle then slips through the inner hub plate assembly [ which is pressed through the inner races of the bearing] until the shoulder of the cv drive axle touches the one inner race on the inboard side , then the nut is tightened down on the axleshaft threads against the hub plate, which pulls the drive axle against the inboard inner race. If over tightened, this will distort the inboard inner race, which will result in inboard bearing roller failure. Any more, you buy the bearings as an assembly, complete with bearing holder, hub, bearing, and wheel speed sensor. You used to be able to just buy the bearings for about half the cost, but to get them out of the retainer, you used to have to use alot of rosebud inspired blue wrench persuasion, accompanied by the assistance of a large hyd shop press and a large ball peen hammer. This would almost always cook the wheel speed sensor, which was so badly rusted in that it could not be removed. I had a bearing retainer explode in the press about 10 years ago [Novice years again] sending hot shrapnel all over the shop [luckily did not hit me or anyone else]. After that, I have always just bought the assembies. What I am getting at is that even if you tried to remove these bearings to repack them with a bearing packer after you pried the seals out, You would almost surely destroy them trying to take them out of the bearing holder and be buying new ones sooner than you would have had to if you just left them alone.

 

[kenmac]

The newer sealed bearings in todays cars and trucks are not serviceable [greasable]. They are not a preloadable tapered bearing style, they are a flat race design, most having a single outer race anywhere from 3 to 5 inches wide, and 2 inner races with 2 sets of balls and cages , with one on each respective end, with rubber seals on each end between the inner and outer race. These bearings are then pressed into a cast [usualy iron, but sometimes aluminum] housing from one direction only and retained with a large internal snap ring. This assembly, which normaly also houses the antilock brake wheel speed sensor, then bolts to the steering knuckle assembly, this bearing holder also has a collar that is a press fit to the hole in the knuckle to aid the bolts in holding the bearing to the knuckle. The drive axle then slips through the inner hub plate assembly [ which is pressed through the inner races of the bearing] until the shoulder of the cv drive axle touches the one inner race on the inboard side , then the nut is tightened down on the axleshaft threads against the hub plate, which pulls the drive axle against the inboard inner race. If over tightened, this will distort the inboard inner race, which will result in inboard bearing roller failure.

Sounds just like the bearings that are in my ATV wheels

 

[kcoriginal]

The newer sealed bearings in todays cars and trucks are not serviceable [greasable]. They are not a preloadable tapered bearing style, they are a flat race design, most having a single outer race anywhere from 3 to 5 inches wide, and 2 inner races with 2 sets of balls and cages , with one on each respective end, with rubber seals on each end between the inner and outer race. These bearings are then pressed into a cast [usualy iron, but sometimes aluminum] housing from one direction only and retained with a large internal snap ring. This assembly, which normaly also houses the antilock brake wheel speed sensor, then bolts to the steering knuckle assembly, this bearing holder also has a collar that is a press fit to the hole in the knuckle to aid the bolts in holding the bearing to the knuckle. The drive axle then slips through the inner hub plate assembly [ which is pressed through the inner races of the bearing] until the shoulder of the cv drive axle touches the one inner race on the inboard side , then the nut is tightened down on the axleshaft threads against the hub plate, which pulls the drive axle against the inboard inner race. If over tightened, this will distort the inboard inner race, which will result in inboard bearing roller failure. Any more, you buy the bearings as an assembly, complete with bearing holder, hub, bearing, and wheel speed sensor. You used to be able to just buy the bearings for about half the cost, but to get them out of the retainer, you used to have to use alot of rosebud inspired blue wrench persuasion, accompanied by the assistance of a large hyd shop press and a large ball peen hammer. This would almost always cook the wheel speed sensor, which was so badly rusted in that it could not be removed. I had a bearing retainer explode in the press about 10 years ago [Novice years again] sending hot shrapnel all over the shop [luckily did not hit me or anyone else]. After that, I have always just bought the assembies. What I am getting at is that even if you tried to remove these bearings to repack them with a bearing packer after you pried the seals out, You would almost surely destroy them trying to take them out of the bearing holder and be buying new ones sooner than you would have had to if you just left them alone.

Thanks for the BS-call, Ryan... I was worried I wasn't understanding what was involved...! Swapping the hub assembly on my 2000 2500 4x4...

 

[Ryan03]

Thanks for the BS-call, Ryan... I was worried I wasn't understanding what was involved...! Swapping the hub assembly on my 2000 2500 4x4...

No problem, I did mine on my 2500hd this past winter after 94k. They were not noisy, but the abs would pulsate a few times right before the truck stopped under light braking. Upon disassembly, I found that the inner bearing shields had rotted away, allowing contaminents to get into the bearing and created just enough play in the bearing to cause ABS sensor malfunctions. I would venture to say that bearing noise and complete failure was not much further off.

I replaced both sides, and I paid $245.00 per side for Timkens from the local Autozone. If shopping at Autozone, call a couple different stores in the area, I have seen prices vary as much as 15% from one Autozone to another, depending on how affluent the area is where the store is located.

 

[kcoriginal]

No problem, I did mine on my 2500hd this past winter after 94k. They were not noisy, but the abs would pulsate a few times right before the truck stopped under light braking. Upon disassembly, I found that the inner bearing shields had rotted away, allowing contaminents to get into the bearing and created just enough play in the bearing to cause ABS sensor malfunctions. I would venture to say that bearing noise and complete failure was not much further off.

I replaced both sides, and I paid $245.00 per side for Timkens from the local Autozone. If shopping at Autozone, call a couple different stores in the area, I have seen prices vary as much as 15% from one Autozone to another, depending on how affluent the area is where the store is located.

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I JUST WANT TO SHARE MY EXPERIENCE FOR THE NEXT GUY WHO IS NERVOUS OR UNSURE ABOUT THIS HUB ASSEMBLY SWAP ON A SILVERADO.
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Sweet, Ryan...! thx for the advice! I DID go ahead and do it before I read that though. I was thinking Timken, but I picked up a National hub assembly from O'Reilly Auto Parts here in San Antonio. $250 each, only needed one. No core charge. But other online outlets I like to use were the same price PLUS shipping, so, I went to O'Reilly. I didn't bother checking Autozone's pricing, cause they are ALWAYS WAY too steep over O'Reilly here. NAPA is usually the same... of course... good parts vs. bargain parts... meh! Anyways, I examined the National closely and it looks to be real nice quality... and another post-er says that Timken and National are under same ownership of Federal-Mogul... so... National was also the premium (expensive) choice that O'Reilly had. the other was like $100 less, but I want TOUGH... so... maybe I'm a dummy, but I paid the extra $.

Anyways, for all to know... I just did my 2000 Silverado 4x4 2500 non-HD and it was essentially a CINCH! Easy work, really...! OK, well.. getting the thread-locked brake caliper bolts off of the hub-carrier/spindle was a 8itch, but... I used my 1/2 inch Craftsman and a 4 foot piece of 2 1/2 inch galvanized pipe as a breaker bar to provide some MAD leverage... For others to know, I was worried that I might break off the bolt and I thought about hitting it with some PB Blaster or WD-40 and letting it set overnight or for a week or whatever... I was really worried the bolt would break off... but no... not even close... it's OK... it's just the thread-locker that gives you fits... take your time and work it, 1/16th of a turn at a time. Take breaks... plan for about 1 hour to get the assembly unbolted... then another to clean real well and reassemble... I took about 6 hours total... if you're like me... plan the time. It was actually pretty easy though, really! Not like a lot of tricky jobs... just took a back and a half to break those bolts on the calipers loose.

I also used about 5 cans of brake cleaner and a wire brush set to get all the area clean of gunk and cleaned up the grease fittings. Bought a grease gun and got those too while I was in there.

Take the cap off the end of the axle BEFORE you pull the calipers all the way off. You will need to get a 36mm socket for the axle nut. It was very easy. No cotter pins or grease and bearings everywhere... just a nice neat, clean nut on a threaded shaft under that cap. clean as a whistle if the cap is still on tight.

Now, that cap was hard too! No instructions on how to get it off...! don;t destroy it! it's nice to put it back on... just chisel at it for about 10 minutes rotate the axle 1 lug stick the chisel on the tiny seam at 45 degree angle and whack it a few times... then tunr 1/8th and do it again... after about 50 times.. it will start to give and you can get an old slotted screwdriver in the crack and work it around some more... resist the urge to rip the thing apart... resist the urge to whack it with the claw hammer... just whack and rotate, whack and rotate... keep going and it will eventually show a crack you can work at to get it off... I put mine back on gently too... my whacking left some permanent lips/bends in the cap that will make it easier to remove in the future but didnt hurt the caps effectiveness... good stuff! I wish I had made a video of it!

Oh, I wiped some chassis grease all over the contact ing surfaces of the hub and inside the socket on the spindle before I put the hub on... on the axle splines, too! All just for good measure. Didn't think it could hurt to lubricate it with good Lucas-Oil grease!

I'm betting an air ratchet would make this WHOLE JOB a LOT easier! So, if you've been waiting to buy one... BUY ONE! if not... have a Craftsman set and a nice framing hammer ready, cause you're gonna be there a while!

But! It is NOT difficult the way a transmission is difficult... the way an Astro van engine swap is difficult... it is just slow and steady wins the race work that any amateur CAN do!

Good luck, and God speed!

kc

Anybody want encouragement or questions, ever... kcoriginal on Y4h00 dot com. Glad to help!

 

[GalwayBoy]

I did both hubs on my '05 2500hd three weeks ago.
I found Timkens on Amazon.com for $154.71 each with $7.49 shipping for both of them. No tax for me in NY because Amazon wasn't the vendor (StockwiseAuto in NJ).
There's a vendor on DieselPlace that sells them for around $200 and offers a lifetime warranty. Great deal if you plan to keep the rig, because you can be sure they're going to wear out again.

I had my alignment checked after a colision, and the tech stated that they were pretty well worn and it would be senseless to try to set up the truck in that shape.
They weren't as bad as he led me to believe, but I changed them out anyway with 72k on the clock. I got the alignment as part of my claim. Upon further reading, some have had theirs go at under 50k. Usually guys with way over stock size tires though

The job itself wasn't too tough, but man those bolts are TIGHT!!!