Simple ROPS for 2012 NH Boomer 30

[BoonDoc]

Oops. Title of post should say FOPS, not ROPS. I do a bit of clearing small logs, standing dead-wood, etc. on my 170 acre forest camp. Occasionally, I'll have some debris slide down or across the booms of my FEL and some dead branches come down when clearing brush. It got me to thinking to rig something a bit more like my neighbor's skidder. I want to improve safety from above and from the right and left side in front of the cab. As the FOP's made for the Boomer and pricey and elaborate and a bit more than I need, I'm thinking to use galvanized pipe with 45 degree angles. Up vertically just in front of the cab, make a 45 degree bend backwards and up, another to level and across to the ROPS bars. I'd add a couple lengths connecting the left and right to add coverage and stability. Not as safe as a skidder, of course, but for my light use, I won't get whipped by a bending branch or have anything slide off the FEL, down the arms, and over the cab. At this point I'm looking for the best place to drill holes for mounting. I wonder if 1.5" galvanized is the best way to go. I can't bend it so I'll need to use elbows, which I think a prone to breakage. If I go with ENT, I could avoid couplings and bend it. ENT is thin-walled and I'm not sure giving up the weakness of couplings with galvanized makes up for giving up the thickness of the pipe wall.

Anyone with some experience and wisdom have any thoughts?

G

What I'm thinking:

 

[dieselcrawler]

I would steer away from conduit (ie: galv and EMT you mentioned) and use 2x2x1/8" steel box tube. Couple reasons... square tube is easier to work with when fitting flat/straight edges and a simple gusset at corners will strenthen the bend/cut to fit and welded angle. Square tube is also more structual than conduit. Unless you go with DOM tube like they make roll cages out of for race cars...

 

[tcreeley]

If you want strength, 1/8th tubing is thin. I'd bump it up to 3/16th or for real strength -1/4th.

 

[BoonDoc]

Box tubing certainly sounds better for strength, etc. Reason I was going to use galvanized, really, is just that it's available at HD and Lws. I don't know where to pick up box tubing, how to bend it, or how to weld it for that matter. Way I figured, like most folks, I've been using nothing, so anything would be an improvement. If the box tubing were available and not too hard to work with, I'd certainly rather go that route. Can I use brackets for the bends?

 

[GManBart]

You may want to steal some of TSO's ideas:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ls-tractors/281452-cab-project-my-r4047.html

 

[dieselcrawler]

You can cobble something together with brackets bolts and fittings... or find a welder to use and have something that is twice as strong at half the weight and likely half the cost of materials.

Wire feed welder from tractor supply....

 

[jrdepew]

Box tubing certainly sounds better for strength, etc. Reason I was going to use galvanized, really, is just that it's available at HD and Lws. I don't know where to pick up box tubing, how to bend it, or how to weld it for that matter. Way I figured, like most folks, I've been using nothing, so anything would be an improvement. If the box tubing were available and not too hard to work with, I'd certainly rather go that route. Can I use brackets for the bends?

There should be some metal suppliers in your area, you will be surprised how reasonable the price is if you can handle buying full 20' or 24' sticks. Most places will cut the tubing for you for a small fee as well. Don't underestimate the effort it will take to cut 1/4" wall tubing if you go that route...a bandsaw or chopsaw is great. Alternatively, an angle grinder with a bunch of cutoff disks (check benchmarkabrasives.com for dirt cheap high quality cutting disks...about 1 dollar each) or a sawzall with a TON of blades (I am not much of a sawzall fan for accurate cuts on metal tubing). A good hacksaw with a good blade tensioning system can also be used...but hopefully you got some stamina!!

The real problem with adding thin wall tubing is that if something heavy comes down and breaks a connection, then you have a metal spear somewhere on your cage.

 

[BoonDoc]

After hearing from you guys, I did have a look at box tubing and notice it's reasonably priced, especially compared to galvanized. Someone on youtube made himself a bender out of a circle of oak and two steel plates bolted through it with a 6 ft handle. He filled the tube with sand, and without too much effort put a 90 degree bend in it with a 3" radius. I don't need anything that tight so presumably it might even be a bit simpler. I've got a wire fed welding unit but as a novice, I'm not confident the welds I can do will offer the proper support. If i get a 1.5" square tube, 1/4" walls, I might be able to bend a 45 down in front just above where the dash would be, another up top, then just let them run back to the ROPS where I'd throw a bolt through. Cross links could just overlap the top of the side rails and get spot-welded in. This weekend, I'll measure exact specs and figure out what I can attach the rails to in the front of the cab.

Thanks to everyone for good suggestions, constructive criticism, etc.

Doc

 

[BoonDoc]

Any ideas on where to mount to in the front? I'd rather not attach to the loader arms in case I remove them. How about the easy already available holes shown here in front of the cab?