Single axle or tandem, brakes or no brakes?

[swedish-fish]

In your financial situation can you afford an aluminum trailer?

Builder,
Well, not really.... but I could save up. At this point, an aluminum trailer is a whole lot more feasible than a new full size truck.
I've seen a few nice used aluminum trailers in other states too far away to consider. Perhaps used would fit my situation better.

Aluminum is very intriguing to me because it was my one experience towing my tractor. Davis trailer to the south of Rochester was extremely generous and rented me an Aluma 6x12 for $25 so I could tow my tractor (no implements) 3 miles to my church so that I could use it to pull hayrides. In fact, that instigated the purchase of a hidden hitch class III rated at 5000lb pull, 7500 weight dist so I do have the hitch now. Incedently, that trailer was about 700 lbs empty and carried the tractor fine, a 1500lb load. Again... flat area and no roads over 35 mph. In the end, Davis was very gracious and let me use the trailer for free. They wouldn't even accept a tip. I did buy the drawbar and ball from them.

Hmmm... an aluminum 78"x16' tandem and brakes just might be worth saving up for. Realistically, I think the weight savings is only a few hundred pounds. 1200 lbs empty aluminum vs 1600 lb. empty light duty steel. Still, that may turn out to be significant in my case and the resale value is pretty good from what I'm told.

Thanks again all! I am enjoying the comments. Keep 'em coming.

 

[dfkrug]

Since I don't see them very often, does anyone successfully pull a 6x16 trailer with a small pickup?

I do.

Unlike a lot of TBN members, I do not want and have not owned any full size
trucks or SUVs. I don't like the bad gas mileage and don't often haul huge
loads. I HAVE borrowed an older beater Dodge 2WD Diesel PU to haul CUTs
a few times, but that is very unusual. My current truck is an 04 Tacoma
4x4 V6 (190hp). The last year of the small Tacos.

Anyway, I used to rent trailers and I was always unhappy with their excessive
weight (2100# for Uhaul tandem axle), their often non-working surge brakes,
and their generally poor condition. Once I rented a Uhaul open-center car
hauler and the wheel spacing of the tractor I was hauling would not fit!

I now own a tandem axle trailer I had built for me at a trailer place for about
$1750. It is a little shorter than most stock trailers, and a little narrower, but
has electric brakes and a 1/16" smooth steel deck. My state requires brakes
on any trailer over 3000#, combined weight (load + trailer). Brakes are good
to have, esp with a light tow vehicle. I have not needed sway bars or load
levelers.

One annoying discovery was Toyota does not provide a brake controller or
wiring from the factory. I installed a Reese controller with 7-pin std
connector, along with frame-mount hitch. I can tow 6000 lb, but I am limiting
myself to 5000# combined wt. The custom trailer is about 1000# empty.

 

[drtydeed]

Since I don't see them very often, does anyone successfully pull a 6x16 trailer with a small pickup?

Swedish,

I used to pull my 7K trailer with my 01 Dakota (4x4 4.7LV8 w/3.55's). It would do it, but had a bit of a struggle with equipment and trees on it. I would say that I had it loaded to the max. I also had to add rear spring asists to keep it level.

You shouldn't have trouble pulling it with your Ranger...it's stopping the load that is always the issue. You need trailer brakes and a brake controller.

 

[chh]

I'd sure recomend brakes. When I bought my MF1433v it was as a package with 6' brush hog, FEL, finish mower and trailer. I have a 3/4 ton Dodge and the trailer didn't have brakes. When I moved the tractor back and forth to mow the drive was at the bottom of a steep hill on a state hwy. Planning ahead was essential because even a light rig like that would push my truck pretty good. A friend admired it too much one day and made an offer it. He now owns the trailer and I have a gooseneck capable of hauling my bigger tractors. I has excellent brakes.

 

[bx23barry]

I used to pull my jeep (@2500#), with and without a trailer, all over with a ranger ('83 longbed v6/5speed) pickup. Alway knew it back there but it wasn't a problem.
While an aluminum tandem axle with brakes on both axles would be ideal, it really is overkill for your truck/tractor combo imho. You really could do fine with a 5000# single axle trailer with brakes. But like they say,"more is gooder".

 

[Builder]

Really? I could get ticketed based on the potential of breaking the law?
I didn't know I had a problem with pulling a 7000 lb GVWR rated trailer if I only put 2500 lbs on it (guessing the trailer would weigh about 1600 lbs)

This scenario would put me at my limit of 4100 lbs. Sorry, the first post should have said 9500 (GCWR) - 5400 (truck and driver) = 4100 lbs.

You can get most trailer manufacturers to build you a trailer with a reduced weight rating plate. That way you don't have to de-register it.

 

[john_bud]

Here's a link to a local (to me) trailer company's aluminum trailer page.

Aluminum Utility Trailers, Single & Tandem, Johnson Trailer, Colfax Wisconsin

Has trailer weights, load capacity and prices. Basically a 80"x14' single axle aluminum (would do the deed) is $1900. Tandem axle 80"x16' is $2600.

The SA does not seem to have brakes. If you went that way, you would have to add either electric or surge. Not hard, but will add $$.


For the record, I would not be a bit afraid to haul your tractor on a single axle trailer. With a ranger, you want brakes on the trailer. Surge brakes are ok.

 

[GasNSteering]

aluminum is nice but would present a bigger theft exposure due to the value of the metal. Maybe just paint it black?

 

[Renze]

Since I don't see them very often, does anyone successfully pull a 6x16 trailer with a small pickup?

Are you concerned about the towing abilities of that Ranger ? I pull trailers like that, behind my Volvo 850 2.5 TDI with little effort, even though on paper, it is only allowed to pull a 1600 kg trailer...
When i bought my 3011 i took her home with a 8x20 deck-over tandem trailer i brought from work, with 2x 1800 kg (3000 lbs ?) axles, on 255/50 B12 ballon tires. Tractor weight was about 3000 lbs. This towed just fine.

The only thing i would do if i towed with trailers and loads like this more regularly, is to install 2 of those supporting air bags inside the rear axle coil springs, so it would accept more tongue weight. since i work at a trailer company, i could perhaps get 2 of those air bellows for OEM price, so i think i should look into that. i have no idea what they cost.


About them brakes, you guys in the States might have longer hauls inbetween turns, but you'll sure learn to appreciate trailer brakes when someone overlooks you and pulls in front of you from a side road...

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

Swedish-fish,
I used to have a 2001 Mazda b4000 4x4 - basically the same thing as yours - and never had a problem pulling the occasional borrowed trailer, but i also kept my combined weights down.

now I have an 04 dakota 4x4 and I use it with my new tandem 6x16 + dovetail steel light duty trailer - and my only issue is that I wish I had an auto tranny on this truck. the trailer has 4 wheel surge brakes so I didn't have to get the truck wired for a brake controller and the brakes work no matter what truck is pulling it.

yes the hydraulic brakes cost more. 4 wheel surge brakes cost me an extra $450 over 2 wheel electrics, but saved me about $200 for wiring the truck and getting a decent brake controller.
the tandem pulls better than a single axle.
the length gives me room to play with how far up the trailer I put the tractor to keep from overloading my ball hitch or floating my back tires depending on what else I'm carrying. (BB, brush hog, etc...)
length also lets me carry 16' combo panels and long lumber without any overhang (which really beats what I used to do with the 6x10 single axel I was using)

my county let me pick the weight limit for my tags, so I got my 7,000 pound rated trailer tagged for 6,000 - which keeps my gross load ratings right in line with my truck tag which is for a 12,000 pound gross total combined weight. (truck is rated for 6010 according to the door sticker)

I got my trailer from hedererbuilt mfg in poplar bluff, Mo, built to order with the features I wanted for less than $2k - even after figuring in my fuel costs to drive there and get it. they were also willing to make arrangements to ship. to buy a comparable trailer within 100 miles of home would have cost me $500-1000 more. they have an ebay store - which is how I found them - if you want to go look at pictures. (I won an auction on a bare frame to be sold as is or built up to my specs for additional fees.)

as to the steel vs aluminum argument, the aluminum trailers I've seen all had stress cracks - which may or may not be an indication of age and abuse, but I haven't seen that many steel ones with the same problem. (on the other hand, aluminum doesn't rust and it oxidizes very slowly) and I didn't find the weight savings worth the increased price.