SIP Shop, 50x60x16

[metalchomper]

I did a search for SIP and SIPs but didn't find anything here. Anyone build using Structural Insulated Panels? I'm in the planning stages of building a new workshop. The existing is 30x40 and is now too small. I've alternated on metal, pole with wood truss, pole with metal lattice truss(aka miracle), and now SIPs. Watched a new 7-11 built with them. Was told by a potential contractor that he can span 40` without a truss. I want a 50x60x16 with 16' lean-tos on both 60' sides. He said I only need ledger boards to attach the lean-to and interior mezzanine. To span 50', he said he would have use a couple of lattice trusses. This sounds very interesting building technique. Can have it Insulated and a finished interior in a few days. Also like the built-in wire chases. I have conduit in the current shop and was planning to do the samae on the new so that will be additional time savings. Im always changing things in the shop which requires wiring changes. Wife likes it too. Likes that there will be less work I have to do and can start our new house build sooner. I'm building the shop first.

 

[dstig1]

My shop and house are SIPs walls, but not roof. Shop is 32x80x 13' high inside. I used trusses for the roof. SIPs roof panels are not as easy as your contractor made it seem. You are not going to span 40" clear without running into issues with sag long term. You still have to support them and that requires a ridge beam which will also have to be supported at some intervals. You should call a SIPs manufacturer before you go too far there. They have a lot of details laid out on their websites too. It turned out to be a lot easier to use trusses for me. Then I had insulation blown in for the ceiling. SIPs for the walls is great as it has it all sealed and done in one shot, and the shell is very tight and sturdy.

The wiring chases are not the easiest to use as they are in styrofoam, so whatever you are pulling will often want to dig into the foam and not pull cleanly. It is NOT like pulling in conduit at all. I limited my pulls in the chases to short ones when possible. The easiest method is to run wires in the floor or ceiling joists and then "dip" into the panels where you need to, which is usually a much shorter run in the panel and this a lot easier. Wiring is probably the one greatest weakness of the SIPs system, and don't even think about putting plumbing in an exterior wall. But it will be tight, strong, sealed and you can screw anything to the wall anywhere you want.

 

[dirttoys]

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My Industrial Cabin Build​

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm a contractor, and I have never seen a SIP building in person or dealt with building anything using them.

From what I understand, their advantage is in the speed that you can install them, saving money on labor. They claim to have a superior R value, which would be good for a roof, but not really significant in a wall. For a lot less money, you can stick frame a building and get the same R value.

I'm also not aware of SIPs being able to span any significant distances in a roof panel. You have to support it somehow, and that requires trusses or rafters. From what I've read, the R value of a Roof SIP is significant and worth comparing the dollar amount compared to a truss system and spraying Closed Cell Foam or blown in fiberglass thick enough to get the same R value as the SIP.

For me, I've found that the best value is fiberglass batts in a wall and ZIP System on the walls, with every seam, window and door, taped. Trusses on the roof with metal used for the ceiling and blown Attic Cat insulation 2 feet thick in the attic for an R60 rating. The doors have to be insulated and weather tight. It doesn't make any sense to spend so much money on insulation and have a massive door in the building that lets the outside temperatures into the building.

I love hearing about alternative building methods, but so far, there isn't anything more cost effective then a properly framed stick, or metal building.

 

[mikester]

Look up local SIP suppliers in your area. I found a local one to me that will provide the engineering drawings and panels based on my design sketches for a fixed per square foot price delivered. Seemed very reasonable price wise for 12" thick panels.

For cold climates and heated spaces the SIP are superior to stick framed IMHO. I'd go steel frame with SIP clad, that way you can get everything clear span. Steel goes up like a meccano set, I prefer it over dealing with any-old-Joes with a hammer calling themselves a carpenter.

SIP installation is fast once the steel is erected. If I remember correctly they can go 4-5' between supports on a 4'x16'x12" SIP panel based on my snow/wind loads.

Remember this rule of thumb - 80% of a building's cost over it's lifetime is in the day to day operation, not the construction cost.

 

[ccogg]

I built a much smaller SIP shop before building our house. Center bay is 24x32 - two stories with living space above the shop. Then two side bays that are each 16x24. My brother took care of logistics and about 5 of us put it up in a week. It’s been great. I ran all the wiring upstairs in the walls and it wasn’t too bad. Plumbing was mostly in the floor. Downstairs all the electrical and compressed air piping are surface mount or in the ceiling. Running electrical in the walls is fine if you plan ahead, but I wouldn’t say it’s particularly easy to make changes. Biggest benefits in a mild climate are quick assembly and interior plywood sheeting. The insulation is not critical where I am, but the living space upstairs is very easy to heat/cool. The shop has three garage doors and a couple skylights, but I don’t use much heat either.

Here they make the panels 8ft by 24ft so if you can take advantage of those sizes it helps a little. For the size you’re talking about, using the panels for infill with metal or wood posts/trusses might work well.

 

[Topzide]

Gentleman I knew had a timber frame with SIPS. He said they came up with a way to run wires where they needed. They heated a ball bearing up and set it down the foam to box location where they waited with a spoon to catch ball bearing. Pretty slick way to run wire chases wherever you'd need them!

 

[hayden]

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My Industrial Cabin Build​

Watch this series. My take-away was that it shows every reason why a novice should NOT build with SIP panels. They powered through it and should be commended for it, but I can't see how a stick building wouldn't have been easier and faster. I don't doubt that experience SIP crews can knock out a building quickly, but I think experience and equipment are a vital part of that.

 

[tomplum]

This is what my BIL does for a living. They many times have a 2 maybe 3 man crew and build these food service, freezer buildings. Real interesting and nice stuff. He built a small building for us walls, roof and all. A 4" Kingspan panel is R32.

 

[Macinnis]

I love the concept, wanna build my retirement home with sips.