Site grading

[Heath568]

I’ve been reading this forum for the last few months and learning a lot from the posts here. It’s great to have a great resource like this.

I’m planning to start building my house next spring and have been thinking more about site placement, drainage, driveway, and eventual site grading.

I’m familiar with using a transit to set sightlines and a grade rod. My father retired from the road construction business and is more than willing to show me more than I need in that aspect. But with the new laser systems is it possible to combine this? I know that the cheap models wont shoot over 100ft, but I’m building a house and small steel outbuilding on a one end of a 10ac site and think I could possibly do it with a laser level and a detector attached to a grade rod? With a laser level I could then use it for other projects inside the house later. (trim, drywall, pipe runs ect…)

I know that I will need to use something because I have been around sites that “eyeballed it” causing the owner to be unhappy later when the drainage was not correct.

My plan was to excavate the site with my tractor. (Case IH 1594 MFWD) I will take off the topsoil in the area and store it off to one side to be reused for final topcoat. Then remove the clay base underneath to make a 36’ X 48’ X 12’ walkout basement. I’m in Kansas and the relative elevation drop for the whole site is 15ft from high point to roadway. (I know that seems easy compared to you folks in the hills with rocky soil.)

I know someone has some tips that will be handy.

Thanks

Heath

 

[Egon]

I'm sure the lazer will work. Just lay out a grid so you can draw in contours and do some figuring. With your fathers help I'd be willing to bet his eyball would do just fine.

My surveying experience dates back to days of a rag on the buggy wheel and hasn't seen much updating.

If arial photos are available for the area you may be able to use them on an overall plan.

Egon

 

[HomeBrew2]

Well, not sure what all you would like comments on but I'll take the laser topic for now.

My advice, and what I did, is to plan on spending $200-400 on the laser. This will get you just into the relm of professional quality. (You may be able to find better sale prices though). Some folks prefer a auto/self-leveling laser ... it's nice but not necessary and I couldn't justify the additional cost. All in this price range should come with a rod detector and probably a bracket thingy to do vertical inside work.

A "real" tripod, either "contractor's" (aluminum legs) or "surveyor's" (wood legs) is really nice to have.

I prefer a Lenker (direct reading) leveling rod to a standard (Philadelphia) rod cuz I don't like adding and subtracting.

What ever you get, go thru the calibration procedure per the manual. PLUS, set a few (at least 2) benckmarks around your site so you can always have a check on your readings every time you set the instrument up.

Note: you could buy a decent Engineer's auto-level for about the same price but I need the ability to work by myself and the laser is THE equipment for that.

Cheers!

 

[Heath568]

As far as the benchmarks I have talked that over with my dad and we are in agreement on placement for them. It makes total sense once you lay it out.

As far as a type or style of laser how much power do the ones in that price range have? I have looked at the sub $100 range and they seem weak. I shouldnt have to shoot more than 200 ft in any direction. Will just the laser work at that range? Or am I into getting into the rod detector area?

And I'm with you 100% on the direct reading rod. The philidelphia one messes with my math.

Got any suggestions for more information? Web sites or books?

Thanks

Heath

 

[HomeBrew2]

Excellent! The major source of errors in surveying can be fixed by just checking a 2nd "known point" ... you and your dad are already there so that is not a prob.

I had the same thought as you when I looked for a laser. How much power do I need to get a visible beam on the rod. Answer: you (and I) can't afford it, AND there is no reason to contemplate it. EVERYBODY has a rod detector. Just make sure that the laser you buy has one or if you can piece-meal a system together, you buy a separate detector. (Lowe's and Home Depot have them and my search put them at just over $100.)

As far as accuracy/precision, I found that a 1/4" per 100' was all I was willing to pay for. BUT, I expected THAT precision. I was not disappointed. I ran a curcuit around my house (100' x 40' squared-off) ... it took 4 setups due to grade ... I closed my benchmark loop within 0.03'. That was with a manually leveled DeWalt instrument via Amazon.com (model # DW071).

As with everything, there are tradeoffs. Using a Lenker rod there is that nasty tape-clamping thing that always seems to be in the way with the rod detector at a certain height. For me, I just un-do the detector clamp and fake it or setup the gun at a higher or lower height. No biggie!

Man ... I wish I did have a website or other reference to help you ... I do not however. I suggest that you AND your dad are best equipped to make the best decision here. Successful surveying principles do not change ... only the technology changes. Surveying is an art AND science ... many folks have tried to take one or the other out of the equation ... to their detriment, I'm afraid, in the long run. (editorial opinion)

I wish you the best with this project. You are already way ahead of many doing the same thing. If I can help any further, please keep asking publically or by PM.

Cheers!