Buying Advice Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp

   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp
  • Thread Starter
#31  
JME81 for what you need whatever you do 24 horse 35 horse if you’re a New England and you’re going to plow snow get a freaking cab
Don’t be a cheapskate get the biggest and best tractor you can afford my Lord man there’s 0% financing for 84 months that’s free money you got $10,000 to put down go for it get yourself a $25,000 tractor or a $20,000 tractor brand new your payments will be nothing. You’ll be happy you did I’m not telling you to get a 40 horse just get things that will be comfortable and get the job done end of story quit Dicken around

I'd love to have a cab, I'm the only one working as my wife is a stay at home mom. If I keep saving up, the payments will be fairly low. What I'm more concerned about are the summers, that's when I'd be using it the most when it's nice out. I don't want to swealter in the cab- I'm concerned that the a/c would rob my PTO for the work I need to complete.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #32  
I'm going through this right now. Bought a 25 horse to avoid emissions and regretted it the first time I tried to pull my box blade up my gravel driveway. Not enough power for a tractor of this size! Now literally two weeks later I'm shopping tractors all over again.

GET MORE POWER THE FIRST TIME. Don't be a bone head like me.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #33  
I went with 44 engine hp / 36 pto hp and a cab out the starting gate. I’ve ran much larger AG equipment, as a teen, and know hp and weight gets the job done. I’d error on going as large as you can, given the use case, than seek a replacement later.

-Chris
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #34  
I'm going through this right now. Bought a 25 horse to avoid emissions and regretted it the first time I tried to pull my box blade up my gravel driveway. Not enough power for a tractor of this size! Now literally two weeks later I'm shopping tractors all over again.

GET MORE POWER THE FIRST TIME. Don't be a bone head like me.

Not enough power or not enough traction? What does it do?
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #35  
Not enough power or not enough traction? What does it do?

Try to drive down the road in high range, start up an incline, engine bogs down.

Try to pull a box blade with the teeth down through compacted gravel roads in medium range, engine bogs down.

It's not a hydro trans issue, it's a not enough horsepower to move 4,000 lbs. of machine issue.

Live and learn! I'm never buying a low power machine again. I'll just suck it up and deal with the ridiculous EPA mandates.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #36  
Try to drive down the road in high range, start up an incline, engine bogs down.

Try to pull a box blade with the teeth down through compacted gravel roads in medium range, engine bogs down.

It's not a hydro trans issue, it's a not enough horsepower to move 4,000 lbs. of machine issue.

Live and learn! I'm never buying a low power machine again. I'll just suck it up and deal with the ridiculous EPA mandates.

Good advice,..... but if you are patient, and look around, you just might find a good used tractor.....without "the ridiculous EPA mandates"
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #37  
Try to drive down the road in high range, start up an incline, engine bogs down.

Try to pull a box blade with the teeth down through compacted gravel roads in medium range, engine bogs down.

It's not a hydro trans issue, it's a not enough horsepower to move 4,000 lbs. of machine issue.

Live and learn! I'm never buying a low power machine again. I'll just suck it up and deal with the ridiculous EPA mandates.

Have to ask: When it bogs down, you’re lifting up on the pedal and going slower?
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #38  
Also, low range should be used for "heavy digging" with the box blade. I used to use a 54" box blade with a little 25hp SCUT, scarifiers all the way down, in a 25 year old hard packed stone road... you are not going to do it fast....

Maybe, you will be able to mow in medium, not high range. Any ground engagement should be in low!

I have been able to spin the tires on mine (16x43-20) trying to pull out stumps without stalling the 25hp.....
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #39  
I'd love to have a cab, I'm the only one working as my wife is a stay at home mom. If I keep saving up, the payments will be fairly low. What I'm more concerned about are the summers, that's when I'd be using it the most when it's nice out. I don't want to swealter in the cab- I'm concerned that the a/c would rob my PTO for the work I need to complete.

My CUT is DIY cabbed.

Roof is galvanized steel (no rust) but I did add a mere 1/4" insulation (aircraft material).*
For summer I remove the door and I've installed 2ea 5 inch 12 volt computer muffin fans**.
Surprisingly enough those fans move enough air that 90 degree summer air is actually fairly comfortable plus another advantage is to keep the bugs out.

*the initial plan was to deter drumming from the large metal surface.
** super compact, low amps and highly efficient.
 
   / Sizing advice 24 vs 35hp #40  
Have to ask: When it bogs down, you’re lifting up on the pedal and going slower?

Yes, but generally it's of no use. The power just isn't there.

Also, low range should be used for "heavy digging" with the box blade. I used to use a 54" box blade with a little 25hp SCUT, scarifiers all the way down, in a 25 year old hard packed stone road... you are not going to do it fast....

Maybe, you will be able to mow in medium, not high range. Any ground engagement should be in low!

I have been able to spin the tires on mine (16x43-20) trying to pull out stumps without stalling the 25hp.....

Absolutely. In low range she'll spin all 4 trying to pull anything. Problem is that in medium range it's on the ragged edge of being able to work hard, and I don't always want to put around at 2 MPH. And my primary use of high range is transport: i.e., traveling down gravel roads. Even at 2,600 RPM it won't handle hills and bogs down immediately. I can release pressure to slow down but it doesn't matter. If it's an especially steep hill (say, 6% grade ) then I have to stop and downshift to medium because I know it'll stall if I try to drive up in high.

If it behaves this way now, it will just immediately throw in the towel later down the road when I hook a finish mower to the back and try to mow hills in medium range. I don't see that being very pleasant.
 
 
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