Tractor Sizing Sizing help for 7 acres

[Thomas]

30hp should fit your needs.if ground not to wet R4's tires will do well.

 

[Turbys_1700]

"Also deciding to buy new or find something used with more power is another decision I need to make.

Thanks for the chance to ask..."

Yep. I'd look at the used tractor market before spending $$$ on a new tractor that might not turn out to have enough hp. Something 5-10 years old with 30-40 hp and an FEL should be all you need for just 7 acres. This way you could avoid the DPF problems.

Good luck

My 1720 was a 99 model with shuttle shift. When I traded it in with 850 hours it was a 13K retail tractor with FEL. It was clean as a pin and not beat up with excellent paint. If it had the SSQA FEL I would have probably kept it. When I traded in my Yanmar YM 1700 for it in 2006 it did not have an FEL and I added it later. It had 245 one owner hours at the time. Good tractor.

 

[MESSMAKER]

30 hp machine is a good place to be, but it gets you into tier 4. If you can live with a 25hp model, you will get a cheaper more simple model. the only drawback is you will have to use a 4 foot mower. Not a huge deal, but it is a small negative. I think I would consider this route if price is a concern. I really think it will be plenty for your needs.

 

[John Fitzgerald]

I have no problem using a standard duty 5 foot rotary cutter on my 24 HP CUT. I go slowly and mow a few times a growing season. I didn't get the 4 foot because it wouldn't cover the wheel track of the tractor, and I couldn't mow up close to objects for that reason. With the 5 foot, if the mower fits through between objects, so will the tractor. If I had to mow thick 8-10 foot high weeds, I would hire it done the first time anyway.

 

[TheMan419]

My 24 hp is engine. I forget what is at the pto.

5 foot bush hog has been no problem through even waist high weeds. For how high you might let a pasture get it will be zero problem.

The "toughest" thing I have done is use the 5 foot tiller to till 12 acres to plant pasture grass. I admit I was pushing the machine to its limits. However only have to do that once

Good advice about the heaviest thing you want to lift. My FEL maxes out at 1000 lb. at the pins. So with forks on like 600 lbs maybe. So not going to lift pallets of stuff or round bales.

While I agree with the advice to not buy too little tractor I will say it is possible to buy too much.

Also consider the lay out of your barn and pasture. Could a larger tractor make the turns you need it to make? We built our first two sacrifice paddocks. 6 foot gates. 5 foot bush hog. Guess what? Gonna reset a couple posts and do 8 foot gates. Lesson learned.

If I had a larger tractor I could not get into the barn w ROPS up. Would be a pain to have to lower each time I went in.

Larger tractor would not get as far into the corner when grooming the in door arena. Again a pain.

So to state a smaller tractor just takes more time than a larger one is not always true.

Can't imagine owing horses w out a FEL. Your back is going to thank you.

 

[anewuser]

The responses have been great and I certainly appreciate everything everyone said.

From what I read, 26 to 30 HP would be about what I need, but another 5 to 8 HP would give me a stronger loader for when I really need it and allow for a larger brush hog to cut down mowing time.

I believe what I'm going to concentrate on looking for is a good 2007 or newer 30 to 38 HP Kubota or Deere with FEL. I'm also going to go to both dealers and get a sense of how they are with customers. I believe they both have used tractors and a couple other places in town also sell ones they pick up from auctions. I will need to do some research on specific models to find out when the Tier 4 emissions change went into effect.

Does anyone have experience with the Kubota B vs. L series?

One other question is transmission type. What advantages/disadvantages of HST vs. synchronized gear? Is the additional cost of hydrostatic worth it?

Thanks again.

 

[jeff9366]

From what I read, 26 to 30 HP would be about what I need, but another 5 to 8 HP would give me a stronger loader when I need it and allow for a larger bush hog to reduce mowing time.

Every tractor manufacturer now has a tractor with a bare weight of 2,600 to 2,700 pounds, with an engine just under 25-horspower, to avoid expensive Tier IV emission controls. Before Tier IV, 25-horsepower tractors were around 1,900 pounds bare tractor. An extra 800 pounds in bare tractor weight makes a big amount of difference in tractor capability and stability. Kubota pioneered this medium-chassis, <25-horsepower category with its L2501.

Many/most of us keep our tractors in the garage; cars and tractor implements outside. Tractor ROPS are quite tall. When shopping tractors consider the "real" height of your garage door opening, relative to folded height of tractor ROPS.


I believe I'm going to concentrate on looking for a good 2007 or newer 30 to 38 HP Kubota or Deere with FEL. I'm also going to visit both dealers to get a sense of how they are with customers. I believe both Deere and Kubota have used tractors. There are a couple other places in town that sell tractors they pick up at auctions.
I will need to research when Tier 4 emissions standards went into effect in specific models.

Tractor dealers usually accept trades only from established customers toward new tractors. Tractor dealers usually have a pretty good idea of the reliability of THE SELLER as well as reliability of the seller's tractor.

Auction tractors are high risk, blind purchases.

Tier IV tractors transitioned into the new market during 2012 to 2013.

Does anyone have experience with the Kubota B vs. L series?
I purchased a new Kubota B3300SU tractor-loader package in 2011. I found B3300SU was too light, therefore too unstable for my use, which was more loader work than Three Point Hitch work.

I purchased a new heavy-chassis Kubota L3560 (Tier IV) in 2013. The tractor is only slightly larger than the B3300SU but twice the weight. L3560 has de Luxe kit. Great tractor which I will keep at least forever.

One other question is transmission type. What advantages/disadvantages of HST vs. synchronized gear?
I cannot bear addressing this question again, for the tenth time, during September 2017.
LINK: tractor hst vs shuttle - Google Search

Is the additional cost of hydrostatic worth it? YES

 

[jeff9366]

We use square bales, not round, so I don't need a heavy loader, though I do definitely need a FEL for picking up logs, hauling manure and such.

Manure is not heavy. Consider readily available Three Point Hitch Pallet Forks for transporting logs via the rear Three Point Hitch. Three Point Hitch lift is more powerful than FEL lift but limited in height. Low lift = greater tractor stability.
LINK: Titan 3 point hitch Pallet Fork Attachment Category 1 tractor carryall 3PT-PF | eBay

Not sure what other implements I'd need - except something to turn the pasture over once every 3 to 5 years.
You probably want to SLICE the pasture every three to four years, not turn it.
LINK: Hay King Renovators - Hay King - Miller

 

[anewuser]

Manure is not heavy. Consider Pallet Forks for transporting logs via the rear Three Point Hitch. Three Point Hitch lift is more powerful than FEL lift but limited in height. Low lift = greater tractor stability.

Excellent points, Jeff. This is where my inexperience shows. I've seen guys using pallet forks instead of the loader for heavy logs. Never considered carrying logs with the 3 point hitch in the rear. Ditto with slicing. This is exactly why I came here to ask and learn.

 

[whirly]

Thanks, 429. When you say it delivers 24 HP, that's at the PTO? Or is that the engine HP?

If I were to buy used, how old would a tractor have to be to pre-Tier 4 emissions?

My 2013 MX5100 is Pre-IV. In 2015 Kubota came out with the MX5200 to replace it and it is full Tier IV.

As to your size question ... I have 10 ac mostly pasture and arena with no "woods" but lots of trash trees. I'm on the wet side of the island and our grass grows FAST. If I don't mow every week the guinea grass gets up to 2' in no time. We bought the MX5100 w/200hrs AND had it shipped 4,800 mi to the island from PA for less than my buddy paid for his BX25 at the local dealer. Admittedly, I was replacing another tractor and have all of the implements so there was no additional cost and I don't need the BH.

I've found that when I have to do anything I have never wished I had a larger tractor. However, your situation may be different and the smaller tractors can do impressive work it just takes longer in many cases. Case in point ... I flail my property with a 6' Mott (really old flail) it takes me about 5 hrs to do 7 acres. With a smaller tractor or a 48" zero turn (I have one of those also) it would be a whole day. I move faster and cut more with each pass. Additionally, with a larger tractor you get a bigger bucket on the FEL for moving manure which we also do on a regular basis which may save you a few trips a week.

I'm not pushing the Kubota. I bought it to replace my old Fordson Power Major that finally lost it's clutch. The MX5100 was the closest HP with 4wd that had HST (I'm getting old and got tired of the gears) and fit my budget. If you have a budget like me, find the tractor you want at a dealer with the highest HP within your budget then look for the same tractor used. You can usually find one with very low hours pre-2015 for less even if you have to travel to see it and have it delivered. You might even be able to get the next step or 2 up in HP and still have money left over for implements.

Good luck and remember the journey is as enjoyable as the destination.