Sizing hydraulics correctly

   / Sizing hydraulics correctly
  • Thread Starter
#11  
J J Thanks again. Some of this is making sense to me now. I will look for parts, and more calculations to determine the feasibility of this project. If it looks do-able, I will be back with questions like, (How do I hook it all up to the front of the engine?) etc. We have probably covered the expensive part for now. Sincerely, Dave
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #12  
Dave, Go to this site:
Baum Hydraulics

There is boatloads of info there...Especially the "How to select a pump and cylinder"
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #13  
.......SNIP......SNIP....... If it looks do-able, I will be back with questions like, (How do I hook it all up to the front of the engine?) etc.......SNIP.....SNIP...., Dave

Dave, what you want to do is do-able. I too have a '53 Jubilee and have done pretty much exactly what you are wanting. To drive the pump off the front pulley, do some searching on the net to find the 4 bolt splined coupler that bolts up to the crank shaft pulley. The adapter has a female splined receiver that accepts a male splined shaft, which in turn is coupled to a pump. A bracket will have to be fashioned to mount the pump and of course you'll need a tank for a hydraulic reservoir, I suggest about 5 - 8 gallons, thats what I have and it's worked for nearly 25 years without a problem. Here are some pictures of my setup in hopes it might help in some way:



It puts out about 12 GPM @ 2100 RPM, I have the pressure relief set to 2000 PSI. A strong Jubilee engine can put out about 32 - 35 HP and the RPM range at the front pulley is in the neighborhood of 900 @ idle and 2100 @ full throttle. With that pump I can operate a full function front end loader and a back hoe no problem.

Larry
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #14  
A quick search and here's the front pulley hydraulic pump coupling hub for a Jubliee:


wm_290421.jpg


Yesterdays Tractors Co.

Once the web site opens, Search (CTRL + F) for part# 290421


Larry
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Larry, Thank you for the part # and the pictures. They help alot. Does the pump run whenever the engine runs or is there a clutch? I read somewhere a guy installed a 12v clutch to disengage the pump. From your pictures I could have the pump slide on a track to engage and disengage the pump to the coupler. Does that make sense? My neighbor gave me a Cross pump. Series 50 #300089. I checked Cross and can't figure out the gpm. Again thanks. The pictures are very informative. I am grateful for the knowledge you all have and the help I am getting.

Dave
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #16  
Found this on "Walts Tractor Parts". May look into doing the same thing for my IH 300 Utility.

Steve



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

UF84051 Front Mounted Hydraulic Pump
Fits Many Models
14GPM at 2000RPM
3/4" Round Keyed Shaft
1 inch and 3/4 inch port size
Replaces number 192504

Price: $398.16
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #17  
Larry, Thank you for the part # and the pictures. They help alot. Does the pump run whenever the engine runs or is there a clutch? I read somewhere a guy installed a 12v clutch to disengage the pump. From your pictures I could have the pump slide on a track to engage and disengage the pump to the coupler. Does that make sense? My neighbor gave me a Cross pump. Series 50 #300089. I checked Cross and can't figure out the gpm. Again thanks. The pictures are very informative. I am grateful for the knowledge you all have and the help I am getting.

Dave

These are clutch pumps, all ready to go, find a place to mount it, add hoses, relief valve, hyd reservoir, control valve, and 12 v turns it on and off.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2009092815305680&catname=hydraulic&keyword=HPCP
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #18  
J.J.,
I guess if one of these 12v pumps were used to only operate an FEL and not in use and both valves for the FEL were centered, would this prevent the cyl. from bleeding down? Or would one need some sort of back pressure valve? I guess you could always just flip the swith and raise the loader a bit if using the tractor but not the loader.

Steve
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #19  
J.J.,
I guess if one of these 12v pumps were used to only operate an FEL and not in use and both valves for the FEL were centered, would this prevent the cyl. from bleeding down? Or would one need some sort of back pressure valve? I guess you could always just flip the switch and raise the loader a bit if using the tractor but not the loader.

Steve

You would need some kind of control valve for any hydraulics function. Primarily because you don't want to start up anything with a hydraulic load on it. Keep in mind, that there is no or little pressure until a motor, cylinder is activated. The fluid is just making a loop from output through valves, to tank, and back to input. When fluid is injected in a circuit, and the valve closes, the fluid in the circuit is retained in that circuit, therefore the holding ability of the cylinder circuit on a loader. Most loaders will leak down, sometimes with engine running.
 
   / Sizing hydraulics correctly #20  
Larry, Thank you for the part # and the pictures. They help alot. Does the pump run whenever the engine runs or is there a clutch? ........SNIP.........SNIP.....
Dave
Your welcome Dave,
My pump runs all the time, never had a lick of trouble. Starting the engine is not an issue as it's never under load until a valve is actuated (just like any normal tractor hydraulic circuit). If it were me I would keep it simple and at the lowest possible cost. 12 volt clutch pumps add cost (almost double) selection is limited and will most likely complicate installation especially on a Ford Jubilee. The Jubilee is designed to have that hub (the one I linked to) installed with a splined shaft then coupled to a direct drive pump. It's my understanding you want to power a PTO device via a hydraulic motor. A direct drive pump with a detented motor control spool valve is going to be the most efficient method (IMHO). Add a Motor with a PTO output shaft and you have what I think you are wanting. I suggest a 1.54 cu/in /rev displacement pump which will give ~ 12 GPM @ 1800 engine RPM and a 4.95 cu/in/rev displacement motor which will result in ~ 540 RPM with the engine / pump turning at 1800 RPM.


Suggested Pump: CLICK HERE

Suggested Motor: CLICK HERE

Larry
 

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