Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change

   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #11  
Well you asked the question and nobody seems to agrees with your thinking on the 110. Do what you want though it's a what makes the world go around.

gg
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Well you asked the question and nobody seems to agrees with your thinking on the 110. Do what you want though it's a what makes the world go around.
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your and others' input and am hearing it loud and clear. But seems you're a "speak plainly and get the answer quickly" kind of guy, and I'm more a "first understand why sensible people disagree" person. It's not just the dealer, but also a local experienced forester (with a 52 HP) saying "get the 110 if you can't get a 90".

I'm now looking at a Norse 450, actually prompted by @mesupra's comment. Regardless, one of the things crystal clear from this thread is that safety will stop me from actually going near the nominal pull rating before actual tractor power will, whether it says 8500, 9000, 10000, or 11000 on the label.
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #13  
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your and others' input and am hearing it loud and clear. But seems you're a "speak plainly and get the answer quickly" kind of guy, and I'm more a "first understand why sensible people disagree" person. It's not just the dealer, but also a local experienced forester (with a 52 HP) saying "get the 110 if you can't get a 90".

I'm now looking at a Norse 450, actually prompted by @mesupra's comment. Regardless, one of the things crystal clear from this thread is that safety will stop me from actually going near the nominal pull rating before actual tractor power will, whether it says 8500, 9000, 10000, or 11000 on the label.
That's a major point to this forum. Some are more direct than others. Some get into great detail and some like to go on and on.
In the end, it helps solidify directional course for any type op...one way.... or another.
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #14  
Here's a Norse in action: watch
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #15  
Those arguments sorta make sense, but I'm conscious of the extra $, I will rarely pull logs >3500lbs actual weight, and too much power can be a curse (I have no desire to pop my front wheels up or damage my 3 pt hitch...). And the two local friends I have with 8500-9000lb winches (on slightly larger tractors) don't feel limited with their set-up. While I trust my dealer and his advice is usually spot on, I'm conscious he has only one FX85 left but three FX110s....
I'm thinking he needs to reduce his inventory of FX110s....
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #16  
I have a Norse 450 on my 60HP M6040 and IMHO it is sized right.
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #17  
First of all, 42hp will be enough to run a FX110, my FX90 uses 25pto max.

Secondly, I don't see how having a stronger winch is dangerous, UNLESS it's owned by a complete moron, who can't figure out that he needs to let go of the rope when something starts going wrong!

Third, thinking that you won't pull "that" heavy of a log, doesn't take into account the extra pull small snags, dirt clods, hills ect.. add to the pull.

Having said all of that, I think you would be happy with an FX85 but I would NOT be getting anything smaller!

SR
 
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   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #18  
I have a Norse 450 on my Gr L6060. I bought the Norse for close to what used winches were going for. I'm a week end warrior in the woods not making a living with it. It has been a good winch for me. I have a quick attach and it won't work on the winch. I assumed they did that on purpose, because they didn't feel it was safe? Probably most winches can tip your tractor over if you just pull the rope and don't use common sense and caution. Especially when pulling that really big log or not watching when it gets caught up on something. Working in the woods is not the safest sport. A man needs to pay attention with everything he does.
 
   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well, I got myself a Norse 450, for less money that the Wallenstein FX85. Thanks for all the advice here, in particular @mesupra 's mention of the Igland 3501 which sent me off that direction. Iglands are more expensive than the corresponding Norses around here. And while a Norse 350 might have been sufficient, none were in stock around here and I wanted to check the PTO angle wouldn't be too low. Since a (different) dealer gave me a really good price on the 450, I'm happy.

Due to blizzard clean-up taking longer, I haven't cut the PTO shaft yet, much less pulled a log (everything's under 18" of snow).

Quick question to Norse/Igland owners. The winch's own PTO connection seems to be some weird rubber coated knob. All my other implements have fluted metal PTO connections, like the tractor. Am I supposed to just force that on and it's some sort of friction mount to the PTO shaft (which is the usual fluted thing), or is the rubber some protective cap I need to remove, with a normal connection underneath. The pic looks nice and sunny, but there was a cold wind blowing and I knew I couldn't finish today, so after an initial "that's weird" I didn't investigate futher....
 

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   / Skidding winch sizing? and Pat's Easy Change #20  
Well, I got myself a Norse 450, for less money that the Wallenstein FX85. Thanks for all the advice here, in particular @mesupra 's mention of the Igland 3501 which sent me off that direction. Iglands are more expensive than the corresponding Norses around here. And while a Norse 350 might have been sufficient, none were in stock around here and I wanted to check the PTO angle wouldn't be too low. Since a (different) dealer gave me a really good price on the 450, I'm happy.

Due to blizzard clean-up taking longer, I haven't cut the PTO shaft yet, much less pulled a log (everything's under 18" of snow).

Quick question to Norse/Igland owners. The winch's own PTO connection seems to be some weird rubber coated knob. All my other implements have fluted metal PTO connections, like the tractor. Am I supposed to just force that on and it's some sort of friction mount to the PTO shaft (which is the usual fluted thing), or is the rubber some protective cap I need to remove, with a normal connection underneath. The pic looks nice and sunny, but there was a cold wind blowing and I knew I couldn't finish today, so after an initial "that's weird" I didn't investigate futher....

It's a protective cap.
 
 
 
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