+++ All About Skunks +++
The following is from variuous sources, including the county extension office, USDA-Forestry Service, City of Toronto Animal Services, the Humane Society, Cornell University Extesnion Service, and 20 years of plain old experience.
Skunks are omnivorous, feeding on insects, berries, nuts, small rodents and bird eggs. They are very adaptable and have found a comfortable existence in urban and suburban neighborhoods. Pet food bowls offer plentiful and tasty meals. Decks, garages, basements, and woodpiles provide adequate housing. This often causes a conflict with homeowners.
Skunks are nocturnal, so they are rarely seen in the daytime. You may smell a skunk and never see it. They mate in late February or March. The female looks for a dark place to den and have her litter of four to six young, which are born in late May or June. Their home range is about one and one half miles.
The skunk's odor is well known. They will spray out of fear, to mark their territory, or to find a mate, especially during mating season. Skunks are very quiet animals. The only time you will ever hear them is when they are about to spray. Then they will make a hissing sound just like a cat.
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Skunk facts
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Skunks have adapted well to city and suburban life. While skunk families can be fun to watch, they also cause problems for property owners and residents.
Skunks are burrowing animals found in almost all parts of North America.
Skunks are omnivorous; they feed on grubs, insects, small rodents, carrion, fruits and vegetables.
In Ontario, skunks breed from February to March; gestation is eight weeks — they produce four to seven young which are usually independent by mid-summer.
Skunks are active all year but may be dormant during periods of extended cold.
They are attracted to spaces under porches, sheds, piles of wood, rocks or debris and garbage, pet food and open composts.
Removing a skunk without also removing the food source and eliminating any potential shelter just creates an opportunity for another skunk to move in.
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Problems and solutions
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Lawn and garden
Skunks are usually attracted to lawns and gardens, especially after a rainfall when grubs and larvae are near the surface. Skunks dig small round holes, and in some cases actually roll up large chunks of sod. The grubs feed on the grass root system, destroying the grass. Prevention methods include:
Treating the lawn with insecticides to get rid of the grubs and larvae (contact garden nurseries or lawn care specialists for correct methods and use of insecticides)
Sprinkling pure soap flakes on the lawn and watering thoroughly.
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Garbage/composters
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Garbage, compost and pet food can provide a real feast for skunks, and once a free meal is found, they will return again and again. Since skunks are such poor climbers, you can close down this wildlife café by:
Storing garbage in boxes or bins
Storing garbage inside the garage or basement until the morning of pick up using a repellant like oil of mustard or mothballs put in the bottom of the garbage can fitting garbage cans with tight lids and securing the cans so they can't be tipped over. If the lid does not fit tight, weigh it down with something heavy. A bungee cord, tied over the lid from side handle to side handle, is also effective.
Using enclosed-type composters only.
Feeding pets indoors.
Skunks will also eat fruit, so pick up fallen fruit so they are not attracted to that area of your yard.
Keep chickens and small animals secured at night. Remember, skunks can dig, so ensure proper housing for your pets.
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Evicting skunks from homes, sheds and porches
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Skunks are burrowing animals, so spaces under porches, sheds, piles of wood, rocks, or debris, are all open invitations for skunks to set up house. Keeping these animals from moving in should be your first choice, but the following suggestions will help you remove them if they do get in, and will discourage them from re-entering.
Eviction should only be done when babies can move on their own. Skunks have their babies in May and sometime in late June, early July the mother skunk will start taking the babies out on walks. About this time she will move them to their natural habitat.
+ Step 1
If you think you know where the entrance to the den is, check to see if it is in use.
Cover the hole with dirt or balled up newspaper. If the hole is in use, the skunk will burrow through the dirt in short order.
If the dirt/newspaper is undisturbed for three to five days, the hole can be closed permanently.
+ Step 2
Encourage skunks to leave on their own by making the home unlivable. Try:
** Sprinkling Naphtha Flakes (moth balls) around the area (babies must be mobile) or distribute urine-soaked kitty litter in and around the den
** Keeping the area brightly lit (a flashlight)
** Playing a loud radio at the entrance while on an all-talk or rock station
** Repeatedly blocking the entrance with dirt or newspaper to create an obstacle to entry
** Installing a one way door, allowing the skunk to leave, but not re-enter. This method should not be used between April and September when skunks are rearing their young, unless babies are mobile.
** Skunks like fishy smelling food. Try feeding them a ways from the house. When they are all out enclose their entry point. They will try to dig their way back in, so be prepared for that.
** Your local game warden may be able to lend you a live type catching trap. If you use one, place a cover over it to darken it into fooling the trapped skunk into settling down, then gently remove to an area where you will release the skunks, open the trap, and remove the cover enough to let the skunk or skunks see daylight, and they will wander away.
** Sprinkle hot red pepper (cayenne) around the perimeter of your foundation.
** Try fencing the area with chicken wire, since skunks don't tend to climb.
** Hire a local pest removal service to come do the job for you.
+ Step 3
Before permanently blocking any entrance:
Check to see if skunks have moved out, especially between April and September when babies may be present (see Step 1)
Be sure no animal is trapped inside the den, as it will starve to death. Not only will the animal suffer, you will be left with a smelly decomposing carcass.
+ Step 4
When you are sure that all skunks have left:
Secure the hole to prevent re-entry. Make sure that all boards or galvanized heavy wire screening extend at least 10 to 20 inches straight down and 15 to 25 inches angled 90° outwards underground. Skunks are excellent diggers and continuing the barrier at a 90° angle makes it much more difficult to dig under. Tip: using wire is better, skunks give up sooner.
Backfill the area with dirt.
Repair siding and holes in buildings.
Place wood or wire screening around the base of porches and buildings as a prevention skirt. Ensure that you cover these areas to at least 10 to 20 inches straight down and 15 to 25 inches angled 90° outwards underground.
Eliminate piles of rock or debris and stack woodpiles neatly to eliminate holes.
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Window wells/tree wells
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Skunks can become trapped in window wells. Since they are poor climbers, you can help them get out by placing a rough board, or a board with cleats, in the window/tree well. This will act as a ramp if it is not too steep. Try to keep it at less than a 45° angle.
To put the board in the well, approach slowly and keep low and out of sight. Retreat if the skunk stamps his front feet or raises his tail and try again later. Keep all pets and people away and the skunk will leave on its own, usually after dark. Either leave the ramp in place permanently, or place a tight cover over all window wells to keep this from happening again.
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After they spray
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A skunk can spray up to 10 feet with great accuracy from the two ducts located under its tail. However, it is a placid creature, and will only spray when it feels threatened. It provides advance warning by stamping its front feet, raising its tail and turning its rear end toward the threat.
If a skunk has passed through your yard, but not sprayed, the odor will dissipate on its own after a time.
To remove skunk spray:
+ From your eyes: Flush with large quantities of clean water. The painful irritation that occurs when the spray gets into the eyes will soon pass. Consult your doctor as soon as possible.
+ From animals and pets: Wash the animal thoroughly in tomato juice or toothpaste followed by an "animal" formulated shampoo. This will make the smell more tolerable. It will take several washings and time to bring total relief. Also, consult your veterinarian as soon as possible.
+ From non-living objects: Use dilute chlorine bleach, ammonia, or vinegar. Do a test spot to make sure these do not damage the material.
+ From your skin: Wash with carbolic soap.
+ There are commercial products on the market that claim to remove skunk odor. Tomato juice or vinegar is said to be helpful in neutralizing the scent. A mixture of 1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/4-c. baking soda, 1 tsp liquid soap has also proven effective in eliminating the odor.
+ Another formula for neutralizing skunk odors on pets and people is: Put a quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide in a clean plastic milk jug, add 1/4 cup baking soda, and a tablespoon of dishwashing soap. Shake gently. Gradually pour on, add a little water at a time, and let foam up for a few minutes. Rinse.
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Trapping, hunting, and poisoning
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Using devices that are inappropriate or illegal to remove skunks, such as leg hold traps, can result in fines up to $5,000.
Placing poison to kill animals could result in criminal charges.
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Rabies
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Although all warm blooded mammals can carry the rabies virus, skunks are a major carrier of the disease in the US. To avoid human exposure to rabies:
Vaccinate all dogs and cats, since there is always a chance of a pet coming in accidental contact with a rabid animal. In many cities, rabies vaccinations for dogs and cats are required by law.
Stay away from all wild animals, especially if they appear tame, injured or sick.
Skunks that show abnormal behaviour should be reported to the Animal Services shelter closest to you.
If you are bitten by any animal, wash the wound with soap and water, contact a doctor, and report the bite to the Public Health Department. If possible, have someone keep the animal in sight so that it can be captured or confined.
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In summary
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Many wild animals, including skunks, have adapted well to life in or near the city. Because food and shelter are plentiful, and natural predators are limited, these animals will continue to live near us. If we learn how to share the environment with them and reduce problems by getting rid of sources of food and shelter on our properties, we can be entertained by these visitors as they make their way to a more suitable home.
If you can't get rid of skunks, you may want to move to Newfoundland. It is, I believe, the only skunk free zone in North America.
BobT.
A Indiana Boy
