Slab pour in cold weather with night freeze.
dstig1
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A friend's dad worked as a carpenter on a Nuke plant build many years ago (doing a lot of form work and such). He said they tested every concrete truck that came in and a lot of them failed. They would have them dump it for stuff like parking lots and sidewalks and such that were not critical. So at least a lot of it was not a total waste. But I guess you would have to plan ahead a lot to have forms ready to dump "bad" concrete when it was needed. But like has been said here, the specs they were working to were nothing like what matters in residential work.
Renze
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The concrete factory casts those lego blocks from rejected concrete, or whatever surplus the last truck brings back from a jobsite.
You kmow, the two by four foot blocks that they stack into retaining walls..
Renze
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About wire vs rebar, i see guys on youtube throw some rebar on the ground (watching Diesel Creek right now) and thats it.
Here in Holland, individual rebar is only used in highly loaded high rise constructions. For floors or slabs the default rebar is nets, 5, 6 or 8mm rebar press welded into 4x4" or 6x6" mesh nets. Are these nets used in North America too ?
Runner
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That's what I used on my shed floor, but in my shop addition, they used 1/2" rebar at 24" O.C. each way. Personally, I don't really trust that the mesh won't rust away over time, but in my shed small slabs, etc., I just don't worry about it. I know that, theoretically, the concrete prevents air from getting to the rebar/mesh and therefore should help prevent rust, but it doesn't always do that.
Speaking of Diesel Creek, on his new house build he used a new product I'd never seen before - a footing form system that incorporates foundation drains. They are hollow plastic forms that you leave in place after the pour, then just attach a leader to the corners to discharge the foundation water. Very slick system.
They are. It's called "re-mesh" here and it's commonly used for floors and slabs of 3-6"/75-150 mm.
Renze
Elite Member
Rebar needs at least 2 inches of cover, which is why we put it on halfs of 2 inch concrete pavers. And the concrete needs to be vibrated for proper deaeration.
Watching his crew, made me think of what Eddie Walker said about rebar chairs... I didnt see any...
sandman2234
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I have poured a lot of concrete b4 I moved to the QC part of that business. Adding water, at the pour site, or at the batch plant simply weakens the finished product as has been stated. Another way to destroy the strength is to let someone in to the pour with a vibrator that over uses it. Too much isn't good and it really doesn't take much!
Last concrete i poured, when inspector came out, he asked me what I was building, a fortress?
David from jax
Last concrete i poured, when inspector came out, he asked me what I was building, a fortress?
David from jax
Renze
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Yes. Drop it all the way to the bottom, then pull it out at about 3 inch per second to bring the air bubbles with it to the surface.
When you throw it in and leave it while youre shoveling elsewhere, it segregates the gravel to the bottom.
Wether cement and sand segregate too, i am not sure. Do you know ?