If you can keep 18.8 cu/ft of redi-mix in a 18.8 cu/ft bucket you are a better operator than me.
Small Building Foundation
- Thread starter Believer
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If you can keep 18.8 cu/ft of redi-mix in a 18.8 cu/ft bucket you are a better operator than me.
(Believer)
These new tandem redi mix truckss with front end discharge and Front axle driven can go nearly anywhere. As a matter of fact even if you choose to mix this concrete you have to get your gravel trucked back there any how. That will take at the very least a tandem axle truck with 8-10 yards of washed premixed concrete gravel. Those trucks are more likely to get stuck than a front wheel drive + tandem axle front discharge redi mix truck.
I guess the deciding factor is how much concrete you are going to need. Are you just pouring footings or are you pouring 600 square feet of floor?
I have mixed large floors with smaller mixers. My advice to you is don't play with the process and try cutting any corners with a small mixer. You will have all the intensity of the work pouring the floor with the redi mix truck. Good luck.
rimshot
atgreene
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Pour your footings by hand then do concrete block. I've done a few this way and fairly simple.
/pine
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you would not need to do it all in one day...
There are literally hundreds of concrete additives...simple granular sugar will ****** the short term (3 day) curing of concrete to avoid cold joints...
an alternative to a continious pour is using control joints with expansion joint material...
if you have a rock quary nearby all you need is "crusher run" and portland cement...no need to buy fine aggregate (sand) and gravel seperately...
using individual material a 1-2-3 mix (with 2"-3" slump) will give you a 2200# product...(1 portland , 2 sand, 3 gravel)
There are literally hundreds of concrete additives...simple granular sugar will ****** the short term (3 day) curing of concrete to avoid cold joints...
an alternative to a continious pour is using control joints with expansion joint material...
if you have a rock quary nearby all you need is "crusher run" and portland cement...no need to buy fine aggregate (sand) and gravel seperately...
using individual material a 1-2-3 mix (with 2"-3" slump) will give you a 2200# product...(1 portland , 2 sand, 3 gravel)
cycle_gator
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Slash Pine:
You seem to have all the number down well. How many cu. ft. in an 80# bag of Portland? Ie. if I dump a bag of Portland into an 8 to 10 cu. ft. mixer (typical three point) is the sand and gravel added by volume in the 1-2-3 ratio, or by weight? If by volume, what are the approximate volumetric quantites? I have usually used the old shovel method, but that was when I could not mix an entire 80# bag at one time. 8 yards of concrete with a three point mixer is about 27 loads. Should be able to do 4 loads an hour, so it would be a very full day.
By the way y'all, concrete does not cure in a day, it has about 75% strength in 3 days, but is still green enough to bind. Not sure who suggested pouring to expansion joints and using dowel pins, but that sounds like a great idea to me. I poured a large slab (with a truck). Then about four years later decided to expand it. I drilled and expoxied #6 re-bar into the existing slab, then ran a double row of bar perpendicular to that at about 12" and 24" off the joint. That was 12 years ago and it still has no signs of cracks.
Whomever said concrete is tough work, Amen to that. Even with an army you will feel like someone who has just gone 12 rounds with the champ (take your pick) at the end of the day.
By the way, I have been thinking a great deal about this very subject as I have a number of large and small pours coming over the next year. For the two large 24'x30' slabs I will get a truck(s). Fortunately, for me the site is fully acessible by truck. But the small stuff I am contemplating using a 3 pt mixer. It is a 50 mile one way for the trucks, so it is not cheap, but should provide a better product in the end for the big slabs.
Anyway, best of luck to all with conrete in their future. Keep us posted on your projects!
You seem to have all the number down well. How many cu. ft. in an 80# bag of Portland? Ie. if I dump a bag of Portland into an 8 to 10 cu. ft. mixer (typical three point) is the sand and gravel added by volume in the 1-2-3 ratio, or by weight? If by volume, what are the approximate volumetric quantites? I have usually used the old shovel method, but that was when I could not mix an entire 80# bag at one time. 8 yards of concrete with a three point mixer is about 27 loads. Should be able to do 4 loads an hour, so it would be a very full day.
By the way y'all, concrete does not cure in a day, it has about 75% strength in 3 days, but is still green enough to bind. Not sure who suggested pouring to expansion joints and using dowel pins, but that sounds like a great idea to me. I poured a large slab (with a truck). Then about four years later decided to expand it. I drilled and expoxied #6 re-bar into the existing slab, then ran a double row of bar perpendicular to that at about 12" and 24" off the joint. That was 12 years ago and it still has no signs of cracks.
Whomever said concrete is tough work, Amen to that. Even with an army you will feel like someone who has just gone 12 rounds with the champ (take your pick) at the end of the day.
By the way, I have been thinking a great deal about this very subject as I have a number of large and small pours coming over the next year. For the two large 24'x30' slabs I will get a truck(s). Fortunately, for me the site is fully acessible by truck. But the small stuff I am contemplating using a 3 pt mixer. It is a 50 mile one way for the trucks, so it is not cheap, but should provide a better product in the end for the big slabs.
Anyway, best of luck to all with conrete in their future. Keep us posted on your projects!
/pine
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all the 1-2-3 figures are volume...using a shovel or a pail...Usually portland comes in 90# bags...
an 8-10 cf mixer is big...an 80# bag of pre-mixed (Sakrete etc.) concrete is only .6 cubic feet (just over one half of a cubic foot)
trivial note...portland cement is ground so fine that it will pass through a sieve that will hold water (surface tension)
Builder
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If that's the only problem and you can drive a 3/4-1 ton truck directly to the foundation, then just rent a concrete hopper from a local ready mix plant. It's like a small trailer that holds & dumps concrete. You go to the ready mix batch plant and rent the trailer, then they pump concrete into the trailer, then you drive it to your jobsite. If you can back the trailer to the area of work, you then dump it and go back for more while your help gets busy with the screed board. Not sure if it'll work in your case, but it's another option.
U-Cart Concrete
tommu56
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That is the only way in?
Can you drive though the creek? if that is what its crossing
We have a 3 ton bridge near my cabin but there is a fourd right next to it for heavy traffic.
tom
