SMALL TREES

   / SMALL TREES #11  
CurlyDave's technique ought to handle those small trees if you could somehow grab the trunks with your root grapple. I have a WR Long grapple and have been thinking about making a bolt-on accessory for jobs where the standard tooth spacing is too wide. This accessory would be nothing more than a steel cross bar that connects the tines, near their tips, for the grapple's central 2 feet or so. (both jaws) My interest would be for picking up small, flat rocks and for dragging out trees and logs from narrow access areas. I might post this idea on the "build it yourself" forum to see if anyone else has tried it.

John
 
   / SMALL TREES #12  
ToadHill said:
Cut the trees about 4 ft from the base. Paint the stumps with roundup full strength just after you cut, this will kill the roots quickly and stop the roots from sprouting. After a season or two you will be able to push them over with the bucket on your tractor.

Wen you say PAINT THE STUMP with roundup do you mean just the fresh cut or entire stump?
 
   / SMALL TREES #13  
I have taken out hundreds of Russian Olive trees using the bucket on my small tractor, they come out so fast the only problem I have is getting them out of the way to pull out more. One other method that works pretty well is a chain snatch attaned to my winch on my jeep, that is the method I use for hills where I can't use the tractor. The smaller ones pop right out. It does leave a lot of holes when you use the bucket. The winch actually does much less damage but it is more work. Don't know how well the chain would work for less bushy trees. You can also put the chain over an old rim so it has some up force.
 
   / SMALL TREES #14  
rjgogo said:
I have taken out hundreds of Russian Olive trees using the bucket on my small tractor, they come out so fast the only problem I have is getting them out of the way to pull out more. One other method that works pretty well is a chain snatch attaned to my winch on my jeep, that is the method I use for hills where I can't use the tractor. The smaller ones pop right out. It does leave a lot of holes when you use the bucket. The winch actually does much less damage but it is more work. Don't know how well the chain would work for less bushy trees. You can also put the chain over an old rim so it has some up force.


Do you use a toothbar? How little is your tractor?
 
   / SMALL TREES #15  
ChuckinNH said:
Do you use a toothbar? How little is your tractor?
the tractor is a JD 2305, the winch is a 8274 Warn. No toothbar needed as I have some sandy soil. the winch is an 8000 pound winch with double that with the snatch block.
 
   / SMALL TREES #16  
rjgogo said:
the tractor is a JD 2305, the winch is a 8274 Warn. No toothbar needed as I have some sandy soil. the winch is an 8000 pound winch with double that with the snatch block.

Thanks for the info. It is really surprising what these scuts can do, and how very versitile they are! The winch info is interesting too as I had thought about getting something like that when I had the BX. I may still end up with another tractor that size.
 
   / SMALL TREES
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I haven't figured out best way to use grapple for standing trees. If small enough to bend to the side, could certainly grapple them up and out. Course that would probably be limited to under 3 inches, I guess.
 
   / SMALL TREES #18  
flINTLOCK said:
I haven't figured out best way to use grapple for standing trees. If small enough to bend to the side, could certainly grapple them up and out. Course that would probably be limited to under 3 inches, I guess.

You can get the bigger ones, too. I'll try to describe the way I do it. Open the grapple all the way and raise it up to about 5 or 6' from the ground, roll it so it's perpendicular to the ground. Drive it directly into the tree you want to pull out, dead center. The top and bottom jaw tips should both be in contact with the tree. Push the tree away from you just a little by driving forward. Now, roll the grapple (dump) until the tree begins to fold in half away from you and starts to break. You may or may not have to inch forward to keep the bottom jaw in contact. As it starts to break, start to close the jaw. You'll have to judge the timing, but when you get it right, you'll have the lower part of the tree and the upper part (upside down) still connected to each other (but broken) all in the jaw of the grapple. When you get it to that point, clamp down hard, curl the bucket, and then raise the loader. It will pull it right out of the ground, roots and all. Hopefully that makes sense...
 
   / SMALL TREES #19  
ChuckinNH said:
Thanks for the info. It is really surprising what these scuts can do, and how very versitile they are! The winch info is interesting too as I had thought about getting something like that when I had the BX. I may still end up with another tractor that size.

The winch is on a lifted Jeep TJ (2000 Wrangler). It has 33s and is locked on both ends so I have a bit of an advantage there with traction. Your results will not be the same on a BX. ;-)
 
   / SMALL TREES #20  
:D :D :D I'm sure you are right about that! I sold the BX, so I am open on tractor sizes right now. I've actually been thinking of getting something big enough to put a small logging winch on.
 

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