Smoking Alternator Wire

Ginormous · May 2, 2012

My 2 cents on painting:

1) 6 cans ought to be plenty to paint the frame/engine

2) The hardener would stay shiny longer and generally hold up better. You can order Yanmar color paints in quarts and gallons from Hoye and Fredricks. They also sell hardener.

3) I think the only black painted parts on my tractors (2210 and 1700) are the exhaust, and for that you would want a high temp paint, like they sell for grills

ctmeans · May 22, 2012

Ok, Update on the smoking wire incident:

I have gone through the wiring rat's nest of 8 feet of painted electrical tape and unraveled everything. Scary

There were wires that were to go from the starter to the alternator to the regulator and to the igition switch. So instead of termining them at the source the would "T" into the wire and wrap around it and tape it like crazy. I really think that all the moving finally got some wires to cross and fried everything. The main culpret was the wire from the starter to the ingition switch. It was one mess of melted plastic with copper. At least I can still tell point to point so I can replace everything. What a mess!!!

So I have ordered a new starter because it is fried and all new wiring from batter back. I also ordered a new blade fuse conversion kit to go away from the old fuse strips.

The regulator on this YM1600 is not solid state. It is located under the dash and is 3" x 2" with 5 tabs that you screw terminals into (they are labeled correspondingly with the alternator with E-F-N-A with a grounding source on the side). When you take it off you see what looks like capasitors.

1. Should I replace the Regulator with a new solid state one?

2. Should I keep the old one, clean all contacts and make sure there is continuity?

3. Does continuity prove that the regulator is indeed regulating the proper voltage?

4. Should I try and replace the alternator with a "GM" style that has a built in 60 amp regulator and bi-pass the old regulator?

I just really don't want to fry this new starter.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

clemsonfor · May 22, 2012

I dont think you can fit the old style 1 wire or any of the old american Alts in this tiny tractor?

Good luck but seems you got it handled. I think once you get the wires right you got it.

farmfun · May 22, 2012

ctmeans said:
So about the part with the key...you said that they won't cut off with the key. This is what I found with my old ignition module. The new one would cut off with the key. I wired it according to the wiring diagram it came with. One goes to the fuses, big wire from the battery to B and last wire from starter to C. What am I missing?

The key controls starter solenoid and lights. A diesel engine is a controlled explosion run on, in that as long as there is fuel the hot surfaces inside will provide combustion. UNLIKE CAR DIESELS that use an electric fuel shutoff in the line so when you shut off the key - the electric valve kills fuel flow, our tractors are manual interruption of fuel flow.

damammel · May 23, 2012

I would think you could make a gm alternator work. Not to familiar with the 1600 but I was able to fit one on a 1500d. A little fabrication work for brackets and it's been about a year running it. It's nice having all the power you need to run lights.

ctmeans · May 24, 2012

I really am leaning towards the GM alternator option. You might lean that way as well if you could see what I see with the state of the voltage regulator. Since it's essentially open (not really sealed but just screwed with the open back towards the back of the instrument panel) the capasitors (or whatever they are) are corroded. I haven't had time to get my multimeter out and check connectivity, but it can't be great. Even with conduction I don't know what the ohm specs are. I know cars are different (and more sensative) but my saturn recently had problems with the coil packs. There was connectivity, but they were out of tolerance for their resistance and the PCM would not fire correctly. They looked perfectly fine though.

I ramble a lot!!! But my main question is where do you get the GM type alternator? Do you take it off and bring it to Autozone and have them size it and specify an internally regulated alternator for around 60 amps? The 1600 looks to be around the same size as the 1500. It is a 16 HP tractor and should have room as the hood doesn't cover that area. Most of the engine area is exposed. Worse case senario is to have to modify brackets and possibly belt size.

farmfun · May 24, 2012

Autozone or even JC Whitney if it floats your boat.

Mine is the 3110D, so I had NO problem with it concerning clearance. I even was able to leave the existing reg box to drive the Yanmar idiot light.

So I have gauges and Idiot light systems for Oil, Temp and Charge. It's really when GREAT when working at night ....

California · May 24, 2012

Ctmeans, take off the regulator and alternator and take them to Autozone for a free test.

YM2000, slightly later (??) than your YM1600, used the same parts as 71~72 Datsun (Nissan) so when they set their tester for that, the regulator tested fine. Hopefully Yanmar also used these components for YM1600 as well. I don't think that is earlier than early 70's.

However . . . don't make the darnfool mistake I made. The regulator I tested was a new one from Hoye because I had ruined my original regulator and then alternator, when I pressure-washed hardened mud out that was packed under the old regulator. Those components under there are big heat-dissipating resistors, mounted there for air circulation, so I felt they needed to be cleaned. Fatal mistake. Their wires aren't sealed watertight where they enter the bottom of the regulator enclosure.

I bought my replacement alternator from Autozone that day, but I kept the new Hoye regulator and installed it because they've been good to me.

Everything still works great 8 years later.

damammel · May 24, 2012

I got chose an alternator from a 96 Chevy Suburban since the bolt holes were not 180 degree offset. It allowed me to fit it in a tighter location. It was a 105 amp. Get a harness out of the junk yard. It will have the fusible link already inline and the right connections.

Alien · May 24, 2012

No need to go with a large alternator unless you are running extra spotlights etc. The engine dosen't need power to run, only the lighting and battery charging circuit. Most definitely get rid of the original (antique) alternator and regulator system. Alternators with inbuilt regulators require less wiring and last for many years and regs are easy to change if you ever need to. Enjoy your project.