Smoking Iseki

[yonahforge]

I've got a question for all you diesel gurus here... My TS2205 has a smoking habit. When it is not being used heavily (like pulling a trailer around the yard) it smokes pretty badly. However, when putting the tractor under heavy load(rototilling, bushhogging) it does not seem to smoke. Maybe it is, but I cannot see it then. I used the rototiller for about 45 minutes Saturday and cannot tell that the oil level has changed, but pulling the wagon around the yard it will drop the oil level. I've had the tractor about 6 months now and have put about 20 hours on it, but cannot pin down when it started smoking. The tractor starts easily, runs good and has good power. This is my first diesel tractor, all the others have been gas, so this is relatively new ground for me. Any ideas?

 

[Surge]

Is the smoke "white" or "black" ??? White indicates burning oil...... I am sure you have seen a few clunkers go down the road with that condition.... Black "smoke" in diesel's is really burned fuel "particulates" what's left over from the burned diesel fuel going out the stack... I am sure you have seen many trucks and buses doing this... they are not burning oil, just the left over fuel remains... maybe a mixture of both that can be confusing......

 

[yonahforge]

I'ts white smoke, and the tractor is using oil. The strange thing is the fact that it uses more oil when it's not being worked hard than when it's not. Most of the hours that I have run the tractor I would call "easy" - basically no load on the tractor. From what I have read here, I have been thinking it will be the rings, but I want to get a few opinions on it.

 

[larso1]

I think you should get/borrow a leak-down test kit and air compressor and see what kind of leakage you're actually getting in each cylinder. Make sure that the piston is near top dead center during the test (worst case wear). That's what I did before opening up my TS1610F motor. I pulled out the glow plugs and bought a M10x1.25 bolt, had it drilled through 1/8" dia., had the bolt head cut off, and welded a 1/4" pipe fitting on the head end. That was the easiest way I could see to pressurize the cylinders.

In my case, it turned out that it was the rear cylinder causing my blow-by problems (35% leakage compared to 22% in front cylinder). I now have the head off and pistons out, and I measured the rear bore at three different levels, and laterally and longitudinally. To my surprise and confusion, the bore ID and piston to cylinder clearance is well within specs shown in the manual. The rings seem OK, and seem to have the same springiness as the new ones (loss of tension an indication of overheating) and were not stuck in the lands when I removed them. No indication of any head gasket leakage. No visual indication of any cracks or scoring in the cylinders or head. Not even a ridge at the top of the cylinders. Oil pressure was @ 65psi before I took it apart, right where it should be.

I wonder if these tractors can glaze up and lose the ring seal if they aren't worked hard enough, or if they sit idle long enough??? I'm pretty stumped at this point. I guess I'll just hone the cylinders good, put in new rings and rod inserts, a new head gasket, a valve job with new seals, and call it good (nad keep my fingers crossed). If there are any other suggestions out there, I'd sure like to hear them.

Bill in CO

 

[gbirky]

Bill,
I had the same experience rebuilding a Yanmar YM1110D (2cyl ~13hp). The cylinder sleeves measured right at new ID - no wear. I used a hone to break the glaze (which was noticable) and put a nice cross-hatch pattern on the sleeves. The rings looked good too, but I replaced them anyway. I did have a leaking exhaust valve. I rebuilt the engine with all new bearings and seals, as well as new rings. While you are in there, you may as well do it - though pulling the crank is a pain in the rear on Yanmar engines. The crank pulls through the back of the block, so I had to split the tractor.

I didn't do a valve job, I just lapped the valves and checked with a vacuum pump at the intake and exhause ports. I put in new valve seals and a head gasket also. That tractor runs great now! No smoke, and just pulls like anything. I think these engines are just about bulletproof.

If I were you, I'd just lap the valves - but that's your call. If you have the crank out, I'd be inclined to replace the crank main bearings, and rod bearings. They normally aren't very expensive.

Greg

 

[larso1]

Greg, thanks for the info. Gives me a little more confidence I'm going in the right direction. A mechanic where I work suggested looking for hidden cracks in the piston, around or in the ring lands. He said just turn the piston upside down and fill it with gasoline up to the oil ring holes. He said if there is a crack, leaks should show up. He also suggested I do a die penetrant test on the surface of the bores, which sounds pretty easy and worth doing. I really don't want to go to all of the work of splitting the tractor, especially when I'm getting such good oil pressure. I think I'll just have the valves lapped and guides checked, stem seals replaced, hone cylinders (no sleeves in these), new rings, and of course the rod big-end bearings.

Bill in CO

 

[yonahforge]

A question on glazed cylinder walls - will use break down the glaze, or will it have to be removed? I have pulled the injectors, and from the deposits on the injector tip I would be willing to wager whatever is going on is in the rear cylinder due to the look of the injector. Would a compression test tell me anything of value?

The gas engines I have dealt with in the past that have had problems have always had obvious problems (low oil press, head gasket, etc) and I don't want to mess up the tractor... It took me too long to get my wife to agree to it's purchase! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[EFC]

Do you have noticeable crankcase pressure? If you pull the dipstick while the engine is running do you feel a large amount of air coming out?

 

[yonahforge]

I haven't pulled the dipstick when it was running, but I have pulled the breather cap off the valve cover, and there was no air movement there. Putting my hand over the breather hole does not build any pressure. I've been kind of wary of pulling the dipstick when the tractor was running.- the dipstick is hard to get out, and is very close close to the oil pan. I didn't want to wear the oil. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif I did that one time with a tiller and didn't like the results.

 

[gbirky]

yonahforge,
I really don't know whether use would break down the glaze, but I rather doubt it. What sort of deposits do you see on the injector?

When I pulled injectors on my 1110D, the guy who checked them at the pump shop cleaned them up a bit and showed me some pitting on the surface of the injector. He said that the pitting is evidence of a leaking exhaust valve. This tractor made a lot of white smoke when starting and under light loads, but then also made a lot of black smoke under heavy loads.

I think the symptoms you describe indicate that you have low compression. You just need to determine whether it is due to rings or valves. You can do a vacuum check on the intake and exhaust ports of the head (with the valves closed). This will tell you if you have leaking valves. The fact that the smoke disappears under moderate to heavy loads leads me to think that it may be worn rings that seal under the higher cylinder pressures of moderate to heavy loads.