Snow Snow blade attachments question

kcook · Nov 1, 2004

Based on my last question on the 4 in 1 bucket I have another.

Looking at the snow blade is a the Rubber lip and the steel cutting bar worth the extra money? I do plan on working in snow and dirt.

Also is the wheel kit worth the extra money, are these wheel behind or in front of the blade?

KC

pajoube · Nov 1, 2004

I bought the snow blade without the metal or rubber lip. I did go to a ranch supply store and bought a horse matt for 29 dollars that is 6 ft by 4 ft and 3/4 thick. Cut into strips and attached to the lip and now have a very strong rubber lib with extra when this one wears out. Works perfect for hard surface as well as on gravel.
PJ

NJBill · Nov 2, 2004

Paul
A little more info on the horse mat please, maybe one of your great pics. Concerned with the method of fastening, I do not have the Snow Blade, but it sounds like the same idea would be beneficial on the Light Material Bucket for certain applications.
By the way another fantastic job on the extra walls.
Bill

DHS · Nov 2, 2004

Paul,

What did you use to cut the horse mat? Did you get the wheel kit for your snow blade? Do you remember the name of the store where you purchased the horse mat?

Considering the number of projects for which you use your PT I consider you one of our most experienced operators.
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Thanks

Dale

425trailer · Nov 2, 2004

I have found the rubber lip supplied by power trac to be great for plowing snow off of asphalt, it conforms to the contour of the driveway producing a cleaner job. I ended up removing the wheels as the blade works more efficiently riding on the rubber in the float position. I woudn't plan on moving much soil with the blade, this is not a dozer. The large bucket or the 4 in 1 both do a fine job of grading.

pajoube · Nov 2, 2004

I bought the horse matt at the TSC store for $29. Cut it into strips 10 inches wide and fastend with carrage bolts on 60 inch by 2 inch 1/4 inch thick plate.
Has plenty of give when hitting solid object but solid enough to give good snow removal on gravel or hard surface.
PJ

pajoube · Nov 2, 2004

I cut the horse matt with a saws-all. I will admit that it was not easy to cut even with it blocked down. My cut is not very even but it works and based on the amount of wear during the first year of operation will last many years. I purchased the horse matt a a store like TSC for $29.00. It was 6ft by 4ft by 3/4 think. Let me tell you that stuff is very heavy.
I did buy the wheel kit from PT and have not had any problems yet.
Thank you for the kind words.
PJ

DHS · Nov 2, 2004

Paul,

Thank-you for the information. The attached picture answered many additional questions. The horse mat was a great idea and it looks like it works well.

I am about to order a snow blade. I have owned my PT for three years and the bucket is to slow for snow removal.

I have not decided on the wheel kit. I am not sure it is worth $135. Does anyone have strong feeling about the wheel kit? Is it necessary or just nice to have?

Thanks

Dale

Sedgewood · Nov 3, 2004

<font color="red"> I have not decided on the wheel kit. I am not sure it is worth $135. Does anyone have strong feeling about the wheel kit? Is it necessary or just nice to have?</font>

The problem I found with the caster wheels that came with the plow for my 1845 is they are mounted too far back from the blade to give good control over the edge. It's was difficult to accurately set the level and the irregularities in my gravel drive caused the blade to bounce and chatter. I took the casters off and mounted snowplow pucks up close to the blade edge. Works great!

Here's a brief description of what I did.

Sedgewood

FOURTEEN · Nov 3, 2004

"" about the wheel kit? Is it necessary ""

The 150# of the 48" dozer/snow blade on my Power Trac rides on 4" diameter pucks at each end of the blade to float it about 1/2" above the surface. It does a fine job on both gravel and asphalt.

For the Power Trac, I would mount a 4" Rigid Dolly ( Caster City ) horizontally to the back side of the blade at each end, so that the wheel would extend 1/2" to 1" below the bottom of the blade when it is in plowing position. This should prevent scalping or scratching the drive with the blade in float.
It would also be closer to the blade, not to mention cheaper, than the PT Kit.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif