Snow chains on yet?

[Chilly807]

Some of my bad jacking experience was in freeing stuck vehicles and changing flat tires. Both of these you don't get to choose what ground to jack up from or what tools or blocking you have at hand or can use. I'm older and more patent now and will wait until I can get the right cribbing and jack and do it right. But of course today I don't get stuck anywhere near as often as I used to and the tires I'm running seldom go flat.

I hear what you're saying. It's kind of funny that once we know better we really don't get much chance to put that knowledge to use because our life situation has evolved.

Sean

 

[gaheadrick]

Having been given several conflicting suggestions, to use or not to use chains, I decided to research chains to determine if they were essential or not. I decided chains were in order since I have a steep driveway even though I had been told I did not need them because I had 4WD, juiced tires, front blower and rear blade. Well, I purchased 2 link chains for both front and rear tires which was definitely more expensive than 4 link. The added chain coverage of the 2 link chains place more chain on the ground for traction and provides a more comfortable ride. I chose the twisted link chain as it is easier on my asphalt drive surface yet provides excellent traction. At the first wet snow, just to determine the need, I attempted to clear the drive without chains... a clear mistake, as I slipped and slid with almost no control nor removal efficiency, and it was a clear safety issue. I then chained up, snugged up, wired loose ends and cut excess chain from the inside of the tire to clear the 3 pt. frame...and all is good. Now, I have complete control, and can go almost anywhere with confidence, less effort and proper safety. Deep wet slippery snow and ice, especially on a slope can very dangerous. I highly suggest, investing in the safety and peace of mind of good chains for all wheels. After researching for best price, including tax and shipping, I purchased mine at Tire Chains by TireChains.com. Wishing all safe snow blowing and plowing!

 

[Don87]

I use a L4740. Never thought I would need chains for snow removal until the other day a person approached me to do their driveway as i was fuelling up. Man was the upper part steep. They had the upper part shovelled and I slipped and slid my way to do the lower part. Chains required but it would take 1/2 hour or so to put them on. Bad business to be doing snow removal on a steep and slanted icy driveway without chains. Wasn't sure where I was going to land.

Before I purchased my Massey, my neighbor ended up in the middle of the highway while clearing my driveway and his, using a Yanmar backhoe with R4's and MFWD. Kinda steep here also, LOL

 

[gaheadrick]

Well...the good news was that no one was hurt in those incidents, yet lesson learned! I have also been told and have used the suggestion that, if you start to loose control on the slope, just drop your blower, bucket or blade. Good rule of thumb, but if you are on ice you may loose control anyway. Yeah, chains for safety baby!

 

[vtsnowedin]

I got seven hours of seat time today clearing a foot of snow. My chains work great and the soft cab takes all the discomfort out of working in a storm even without a heater. I need a better blade either front or back. The bucket or my neighbors seven foot box blade (He is letting me use it while he and his tractor are away) work but are way too slow. Another neighbor has a mid sized Kubota with a front blade attached to her bucket that works well but she doesn't have the rear tires loaded and is afraid to plow the main hill between my house and hers. I'm thinking an eight foot back blade that can be offset or an eight and a half foot front blade coupled to my third function valve for the power angle.

 

[gaheadrick]

With the deep snow you are working with a bucket or box blade can take a lot longer than a blower a good blade. If you have a lot of room to push snow out of the way a front blade should work well for you. I chose to use a front mounted blower because I don't have the room and need the blower to get it up and out of the way. Balance is very helpful weighting front and back of the tractor, especially when working on sloping drives. With use of a front blade, adding rear tire ballast would be a good move, or add weights to the 3 point. In my case, I use a rear blade with some added weight, ballast in the rear tires(and 2 link chains) to counter balance the front blower. I can clear 600 feet of drive, some of it quite steep, in less than an hour, more time if its wet and icy. The rear blade allows me to move the compact ice provided by the county snow plow, and it allows me to clear the surface layer off the asphalt part of my drive. Also, the balanced weight adds to safety, good traction and more confident handling, especially on steep terrain.

 

[vtsnowedin]

With the deep snow you are working with a bucket or box blade can take a lot longer than a blower a good blade. If you have a lot of room to push snow out of the way a front blade should work well for you. I chose to use a front mounted blower because I don't have the room and need the blower to get it up and out of the way. Balance is very helpful weighting front and back of the tractor, especially when working on sloping drives. With use of a front blade, adding rear tire ballast would be a good move, or add weights to the 3 point. In my case, I use a rear blade with some added weight, ballast in the rear tires(and 2 link chains) to counter balance the front blower. I can clear 600 feet of drive, some of it quite steep, in less than an hour, more time if its wet and icy. The rear blade allows me to move the compact ice provided by the county snow plow, and it allows me to clear the surface layer off the asphalt part of my drive. Also, the balanced weight adds to safety, good traction and more confident handling, especially on steep terrain.

MY rears have 1400 odd pounds of beet juice (Rim-guard)TM in them and the ice chains weight about 350. Add in the canopy and the soft cab the Woods 84 inch box blade and my 250 lbs. and I think I have the ballast issue pretty well covered. I have both tight places and others with room to push back and the back blade can be used to drag a blade full out of a tight place to a good place to dump it. A good front or back blade that would cast snow out beyond my eight foot wide rear track is what I need. I can always buck back between storms. I already have yesterdays foot pushed back. A seven foot JD back blade that offsets is $1100. A front setup that fits in a JD carrier might go $2K to $4K I haven't shopped for one yet. $10K for a front blower is out of the question without a winning lottery ticket. I'll probably muddle through this winter with what I have and shop around and get a better set up by next fall.

 

[Chilly807]

MY rears have 1400 odd pounds of beet juice (Rim-guard)TM in them and the ice chains weight about 350. Add in the canopy and the soft cab the Woods 84 inch box blade and my 250 lbs. and I think I have the ballast issue pretty well covered. I have both tight places and others with room to push back and the back blade can be used to drag a blade full out of a tight place to a good place to dump it. A good front or back blade that would cast snow out beyond my eight foot wide rear track is what I need. I can always buck back between storms. I already have yesterdays foot pushed back. A seven foot JD back blade that offsets is $1100. A front setup that fits in a JD carrier might go $2K to $4K I haven't shopped for one yet. $10K for a front blower is out of the question without a winning lottery ticket. I'll probably muddle through this winter with what I have and shop around and get a better set up by next fall.

Does the mouldboard on your rear blade offset independently of the frame? Mine does, although I've never done it and now with the lower anchor point for my hydraulic angle welded to the mouldboard I can't move it easily. I have the same trouble, even with the 3-point offset as far to the right as I can get it I still don't have enough blade overhang to wing the snow back as far as I'd like.

Sean

 

[vtsnowedin]

The Woods 84" box blade I have on isn't mine so I won't be doing any mods to it. The seven foot back blade I looked at last week could be offset but an eight footer would be better. Or I could just give up and set my rears back in to seven feet wide and need less blade.

 

[gaheadrick]

Hello vtsnowedin,

Sounds like you all the balance needed and you have a great plan for a front and rear blade; should work very well. Best success!

Symbion

 

[vtsnowedin]

Hello vtsnowedin,

Sounds like you all the balance needed and you have a great plan for a front and rear blade; should work very well. Best success!

Symbion

Thanks. More by chance then design. I was breaking out the drive today to my sister in laws place which I had left until last as she is not living there at present. I went at it with the front bucket on float tipped aggressively and the back box blade up just as ballast. The 5045E was rolling six foot wide snow balls as high as the loader arms. Never a video cam around when you need it.

 

[DKCDKC]

I've just started looking at chains for those snows accompanied by ice we are getting more frequently now. The last part of my mile gravel drive is a long hill up from my home. Sometimes it ices and the tractor just won't go up pushing... Or sometimes at all. But would I be better putting the chains on the front or back wheels on my 4WD JD? I see both referenced on TBN. I've seen chains around here only on rear wheels, but there are some reasons to have them on the front too.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I've just started looking at chains for those snows accompanied by ice we are getting more frequently now. The last part of my mile gravel drive is a long hill up from my home. Sometimes it ices and the tractor just won't go up pushing... Or sometimes at all. But would I be better putting the chains on the front or back wheels on my 4WD JD? I see both referenced on TBN. I've seen chains around here only on rear wheels, but there are some reasons to have them on the front too.

Check your owners manual. Some tractors are not set up for chains in the front both on clearance with the steering linkage and the loader arms. Others don't like the extra stress put on the front driveline so just chaining the rears is advised.

 

[Chilly807]

I've just started looking at chains for those snows accompanied by ice we are getting more frequently now. The last part of my mile gravel drive is a long hill up from my home. Sometimes it ices and the tractor just won't go up pushing... Or sometimes at all. But would I be better putting the chains on the front or back wheels on my 4WD JD? I see both referenced on TBN. I've seen chains around here only on rear wheels, but there are some reasons to have them on the front too.

Your tractor is about the same size as mine, unless you have one **** of a hill you won't need front chains. I can make do without if I really had to, but can't use the machine to it's full potential. I'd recommend getting them for the back first, then if you still have trouble look into chaining the front if you can. Also there are chains, then there are better chains.. I got these from my Kubota dealer, made by Tellefsdal. Smooth running good quality chain with great traction. They're hard on paved surfaces though if you spin them.

Sean

 

[acudave]

Having been given several conflicting suggestions, to use or not to use chains, I decided to research chains to determine if they were essential or not. I decided chains were in order since I have a steep driveway even though I had been told I did not need them because I had 4WD, juiced tires, front blower and rear blade. Well, I purchased 2 link chains for both front and rear tires which was definitely more expensive than 4 link. The added chain coverage of the 2 link chains place more chain on the ground for traction and provides a more comfortable ride. I chose the twisted link chain as it is easier on my asphalt drive surface yet provides excellent traction. At the first wet snow, just to determine the need, I attempted to clear the drive without chains... a clear mistake, as I slipped and slid with almost no control nor removal efficiency, and it was a clear safety issue. I then chained up, snugged up, wired loose ends and cut excess chain from the inside of the tire to clear the 3 pt. frame...and all is good. Now, I have complete control, and can go almost anywhere with confidence, less effort and proper safety. Deep wet slippery snow and ice, especially on a slope can very dangerous. I highly suggest, investing in the safety and peace of mind of good chains for all wheels. After researching for best price, including tax and shipping, I purchased mine at Tire Chains by TireChains.com. Wishing all safe snow blowing and plowing!

Just cleared a foot of snow off of my steep asphalt driveway for the first time and decided that chains are definitely in order for me. I figured the loaded tires, rear mount blower, front end loader, and 4WD would give me all the traction I needed, but I was wrong! I have been doing research on tirechains.com to figure out what I need, but haven't come to a clear conclusion yet. It seems that they discourage the use of the ladder chains for the R1 tires since they get lost in the tread. However, the alternate style chains look like they will tear up the pavement pretty bad. Are you running your chains on R1 tires? Also, you mentioned twisted link. Is that just the standard 2-LINK Ladder chain, or is it something different?

 

[bigtiller]

Just cleared a foot of snow off of my steep asphalt driveway for the first time and decided that chains are definitely in order for me. I figured the loaded tires, rear mount blower, front end loader, and 4WD would give me all the traction I needed, but I was wrong! I have been doing research on tirechains.com to figure out what I need, but haven't come to a clear conclusion yet. It seems that they discourage the use of the ladder chains for the R1 tires since they get lost in the tread. However, the alternate style chains look like they will tear up the pavement pretty bad. Are you running your chains on R1 tires? Also, you mentioned twisted link. Is that just the standard 2-LINK Ladder chain, or is it something different?

Yep, weight is your friend, but sometimes you still need chains.

I seen a JD 644 pay-loader with foamed tires that weighed over 40,000 pounds get stuck in the snow.

 

[Harvey9]

I've just started looking at chains for those snows accompanied by ice we are getting more frequently now. The last part of my mile gravel drive is a long hill up from my home. Sometimes it ices and the tractor just won't go up pushing... Or sometimes at all. But would I be better putting the chains on the front or back wheels on my 4WD JD? I see both referenced on TBN. I've seen chains around here only on rear wheels, but there are some reasons to have them on the front too.

I have a fairly long and steep driveway, I installed chains this year and I can't believe the difference, it's night and day for traction. I went rear only and don't expect I'll need anything on the front. Chains aren't cheap, I got mine used and had to cut them down to fit. If you can afford them, get them.

Harvey

 

[JIMMY JAMES]

I am just starting to look into chains either for the frt. or rear. Does anybody actually know where to buy them for my kubota B7800

 

[Don87]

I am just starting to look into chains either for the frt. or rear. Does anybody actually know where to buy them for my kubota B7800

Check at www.tirechains.com

 

[NHmitch]

We have to put chains on several pieces of farm equipment, and I always let air out of the tires, install the chains., and then refill the tires. The chains are always very snug this way.