Snow plow and mount for Kubota B7510

[ASGAR]

I thought it would be nice to plow with my B7510 HST Kubota so I built a subframe and plow last month. I started with an old meyer 7 foot blade. I cut it down to 5 foot and re-skinned the bottom 6inches. The subframe was made out of lots of bits and pieces I had around. The tubing is 2x4x1/4 wall. I made it so the subframe can come off by taking the 4 front bolts out and pulling the two rear pins. The pins can be put in first and the frame swings up to align the holes so it is pretty easy to put on and take off. The blade lift cylinder and frame fits into a 2 receiver. This way I can disconnect the hydraulics, pull the two plow frame pins to remove the plow, then pull one pin to remove the lift cylinder stuff. Then the FEL goes right back on without removing the sub frame. Tonight was our first snow and my wife gave it a try, worked great. In the spring I will sandblast and paint the plow. For those of you who have loader valves, the way this one works is that you get the normal back = up, forward = down, way forward past the detent = float. What you may not realize, at least it took me a bit to figure this out, is that with this regenerative type FEL valve, left = angle left, but the right (dump) either does nothing or makes the blade jump left all jerky like (good for knocking off the snow), if you push the joystick past the detent to the right you get power right and the blade works as expected. The idea is like the float position, you can go past the detent to the right to remove the regenerative feature of the valve and get power. Anyway, this is my first post, I hope it is useful to someone working on a home

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Very nice fabrication.

 

[bx24]

Welcome ASCAR ...... The quality of your work really shows - you should be proud.

I am doing almost exactly the same thing but I have not decided yet how much to cut down my 6.5' Meyer blade. At this point, I think I may leave it wide. I know I won't be able to push really deep stuff, but with 90% of the snow storms here in Indy dropping less than 4-5", I think I will enjoy the extra width in time savings.

You had the same idea as me as far as the receiver hitch part. I started to go down that road and I have since started leaning towards leaving the FEL on and simply disconnecting the dump circuit. I did this for two reasons:

1- Extra weight for traction because the FEL is still on
2- I can use the FEL to help manhandle the plow into its slots to install it.

Next time the plow is off, try leaving the FEL on and going this route. I was planning on keeping the FEL arms pretty high to improve visibility.

Nice job on your project

 

[Ductape]

ASGAR, nice work !!! Very well thought out. With workmanship like that, you should plan on posting here more often.

 

[ASGAR]

I have used the plow for two storms, one was a wimpy inch or so and the last one was about 5" of wet heavy stuff. My thought is that you should leave it at 6.5 foot. I cut mine down to 5" because I was worried that the tractor frame is narrow and if I caught the corner of the plow on something it would torque the whole tractor around. The Kubota set up is 5 foot so I considered that would be safe. What I have found is that the 5 foot plow spills more snow than I would like on the clean up passes, the extra foot should keep this from happening. I think once I paint and WD40 the blade the snow will not stick to it like it does with just primer. I also may cover the plow with plastic to make it really slick. One factor is I ask my wife to run it in low so this limits the top speed. I run it is high gear and the extra speed throws the snow a lot better.

I went back and forth on the lift cylinder. My first plan was to use the FEL for lift and take off the bucket. This would have saved $70 for the cylinder, $40 for the hoses and $26 for the couplers + steel. The reason I did not go this route is that I did not want the extra wieght up there, we have a steep driveway and if the edge caught and spun the tractor it would be that much more scary. I use the lift cylinder to lift the blade when I put it on so that is not really a factor. I have kids that in a few years will most likely run this tractor along as my wife, I wanted it as stable as I could make it.

 

[ASGAR]

Also.. forgot to mention... At the 5 foot blade width I have, if the blade is angled the front tires really don't have enough traction to turn an arc when plowing the 4 inchs of wet snow. Chains would fix this but I don't plan on doing that. I found that in low range you can push the full 5 foot of snow until it piles up about 2 foot high in front of the blade. Basically the 5 foot width is well matched to the ability of the tractor to push without using chains...

 

[Berniep]

I ran into the regenerative problem with my grapple. If you flip the hoses you will get smooth operation except it will be backwards. Stick left, blade angles right.

 

[SkunkWerX]

I ran into the regenerative problem with my grapple. If you flip the hoses you will get smooth operation except it will be backwards. Stick left, blade angles right.

Bernie, same thing here, except when I flip my hoses tofix the problem, everything is straight (stick moved right , blade moves right).
It is a wierd problem, had me scratching my head for a bit.
It occurred on the pwoer angle of my plow, as well as my rear grader blade when hoses hooked up backwards.


ASGAR, Welcome and Great job!! That is super strong the way you tied it back to your frame and FEL mount area. I am impressed!

Now go get some cans of Chevy engine block ORANGE paint and spray that blade!

 

[Sleepy owl]

Hi great job, where did the back of the sub frame go to thanks.Sleepy owl

 

[ASGAR]

Hi great job, where did the back of the sub frame go to thanks.Sleepy owl

I used the brackets welded under the FEL arms. It looks like Kubota uses the small tabs with the inch or so hole in them that hang off of the main frame in the middle of the tractor. I decided to use the FEL brackets because they are more reinforced. I let the brackets fit tight side to side to the mounting points under the FEL arms. 3/4" pins hold the bracket. I also drilled holes to line up the the slots in the FEL bracket in case I decided I wanted to bolt it as well. The pins work fine just as they are, it is a snug fit.