Snow Plow Repair

[George2615]

Like Jim said, several taps on the sleeves, plenty of PB Blaster, Maybe heat the sleeves, Tap on the pins with a drift punch. Have an assistant keep applying jack pressure where you have it while tapping with hammer. It will probably break free but as a last resort you can torch or sawzall the pins off then drive them out and replace with new.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well we tried everything and finally got it broke free. Now the problem was the pins. We ended up having to cut them in half. We heated it cherry red and used a punch but no go. Got one to move a 1/4", one came out, a still have 2 halves stuck in. Ended up braking a 3# sledge and went to the 8# and still no go. We even stood it up on end and strapped it to a basket ball goad and beat on it. We may end up having to have them cut out and fab up new ones.

Chris

 

[joe48]

try this,it sounds a little crazy but has worked for me many times.

wrap the problem areas as best as you can with cotton rags, then soak with household ammonia, the cover with cling wrap plastics to keep from evaporating. let soak at least 24 to 48 hours , keeping wet with ammonia.

now try and knock out pins with a hammer and punch, unless they have been welded in, the pins should drive out easily.

let us know if it works ok. Joe48

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for the tip Joe. I will give anything a shot. Like I said, they are stuck. I broke my 3# sledge so I have to get a new one today.

Chris

 

[LD1]

I have rebuilt many meyer plows from st-90 to c-7.5 and c-8 and more. The pins are the biggest pain there is. What I have found that works best is an air hammer. If you have a good air hammer with a punch attachment and not a chisel, they are the way to go. I have spent 5 min before with a punch (held with vicegrips for safety) and a 3# sledge and not even budge a pin. Get the air hammer out and it walks right out.

The plow I am currently doing right now is a st-90. I have stripped down and peeled the moldboard skin off and I am puting in a new one at 11ga instead of 12ga.

Juist from experience let me give you some cheap and simple advice that will mke the plow last longer and be easier to work on next time.

1. Dont use the cutting edge bolts that have the round head and square sholder like a carriage bolt. Just use regular bolts, as the square heads tend to round off and you can't even get vice grips on the mushroom head. I've had to cut several of these off.

2. Either use all stainless hardware or never-seize the crap out of all the bolts.

3. either weld solid or silicone the backs of the support ribs to the moldboard to keep salty water out. All the plows that I have seen rusted through, it starts between then ribs and moldboard where you cant get to, to clean and paint.

4. Make the pins greasable. I have seen this done two ways, either by drilling the pin and putting a fitting on the pin itself, or by drilling and tapping the pin bosses and putting a fitting there. Either way works, whichever is most convient for you ro do.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have rebuilt many meyer plows from st-90 to c-7.5 and c-8 and more. The pins are the biggest pain there is. What I have found that works best is an air hammer. If you have a good air hammer with a punch attachment and not a chisel, they are the way to go. I have spent 5 min before with a punch (held with vicegrips for safety) and a 3# sledge and not even budge a pin. Get the air hammer out and it walks right out.

The plow I am currently doing right now is a st-90. I have stripped down and peeled the moldboard skin off and I am puting in a new one at 11ga instead of 12ga.

Juist from experience let me give you some cheap and simple advice that will mke the plow last longer and be easier to work on next time.

1. Dont use the cutting edge bolts that have the round head and square sholder like a carriage bolt. Just use regular bolts, as the square heads tend to round off and you can't even get vice grips on the mushroom head. I've had to cut several of these off.

2. Either use all stainless hardware or never-seize the crap out of all the bolts.

3. either weld solid or silicone the backs of the support ribs to the moldboard to keep salty water out. All the plows that I have seen rusted through, it starts between then ribs and moldboard where you cant get to, to clean and paint.

4. Make the pins greasable. I have seen this done two ways, either by drilling the pin and putting a fitting on the pin itself, or by drilling and tapping the pin bosses and putting a fitting there. Either way works, whichever is most convient for you ro do.

Thanks for the advise. I got some rust buster, 4OZ size, for $1.91 at my local Rural King and will give it a try with my new sledge that I also got there plus a air hammer. I will make sure to drill and tap each side of the pin boss to accept a zerk so I can grease the heck out of them.

Chris