Snow Pusher Build

   / Snow Pusher Build #11  
Got it. So I have to come up with a way to mount the flat plate to the circular plow and kick out the bottom for a little more angle?

Yes. From what i've seen, the bottom is kicked out with some 1/2" plating like an 8"x6" piece. I'm trying to remember where I saw this. If I do, I'll post the pic.
 
   / Snow Pusher Build #12  
Got it. So I have to come up with a way to mount the flat plate to the circular plow and kick out the bottom for a little more angle?

Position the blade straight up and down with the side pushers flat on the ground. Move your tilt indicator to the flat position on your loader. This will give you the angle of your adapter to weld on the pusher. Again don't forget to raise your loader at least 4" from the lowest position. More is ok but don't go any lower than 4" or you won't be able to follow contours or drop-offs. As far as mount thickness I would use 1/4" or 5/16" and brace it. If you have 3/8" [maybe left over from your sides] or 1/2" it is fine but way overkill. Remember when you box something in it is way stronger than just a couple of plates top and bottom. CJ
 
   / Snow Pusher Build
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I started welding the SSQA plate to the plow blade today. I used some old 1/4 plate and the plasma to cut out 4 pieces to tie them together.
I took your advice and kept the FEL up about 4 inches and leveled it with the ground.

Snowpusher ssqa (1).JPGSnowpusher ssqa (5).JPGSnowpusher ssqa (4).JPGSnowpusher ssqa (3).JPGSnowpusher ssqa (2).JPGSnowpusher (2).JPGSnowpusher (9).JPGSnowpusher (6).JPGSnowpusher (3).JPGSnowpusher (10).JPGSnowpusher (7).JPGSnowpusher (4).JPGSnowpusher (1).JPGSnowpusher (8).JPGSnowpusher (5).JPGSnowpusher (12).JPGSnowpusher (11).JPG
 
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   / Snow Pusher Build #14  
Position the blade straight up and down with the side pushers flat on the ground. Move your tilt indicator to the flat position on your loader. This will give you the angle of your adapter to weld on the pusher. Again don't forget to raise your loader at least 4" from the lowest position. More is ok but don't go any lower than 4" or you won't be able to follow contours or drop-offs. As far as mount thickness I would use 1/4" or 5/16" and brace it. If you have 3/8" [maybe left over from your sides] or 1/2" it is fine but way overkill. Remember when you box something in it is way stronger than just a couple of plates top and bottom. CJ

I think 3/8" and 1/2" are way overkill for the sides. I have a ready made snow push blade and the sides are only 3/16" that are braced inside and across the top. I also added an adjustable height back drag bar across the top of mine using an old plow cutting edge. 3/8" or 1/2" would be good for the bottom skid shoes.
 

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   / Snow Pusher Build
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I have quite a bit of 1/4 plate laying around. As long as it's braced top and bottom, it should be fine for the sides, right?
 
   / Snow Pusher Build #16  
I have quite a bit of 1/4 plate laying around. As long as it's braced top and bottom, it should be fine for the sides, right?

Should be just fine. I used 1/4" and without inspecting "store bought" units, I thought that it was probably overkill. I did reinforce the top with a flat 2x3/8 bar and the front with some old 5/8" cutting edge. A well built skid shoe on the bottom takes care of that stiffening. (also made out of old c/e)
 

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   / Snow Pusher Build #17  
I think so. As you can see mine is 3/16" but is braced well. Top plate is a brace, Triangle gussets above the cutting edge, and the skid plates on the bottom. I'm sure the back drag bar I added braces the top front too.
 
   / Snow Pusher Build
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Should I consider making the sides removable?
 
   / Snow Pusher Build #19  
I made my sides for my grapples wood box out of 3/16 and without bracing they bend very easily. I would say at least top and bottom for a pusher. As far as being removable? If you cant angle it, I cant see where it would help you. CJ
 

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