Socket / Bolt size for 3720 wheels

[Attila]

I recently bought a 3720. I need to torque the wheel bolts as part of the 10 hour check.

Being a newbie I have to get some tools. What size socket do I need to get? I'll probably get a set but need to know whether Deere uses metric or not. I can't check the tractor as I'm keeping it in the country and I am in the city right now. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[browns40]

Hi Attila,

15/16th's of an inch... it seems JD is having their subcontractors stick to English.

Buy a nice self-contained set you can carry, 1/2 inch or more... don't go cheap though, cheap tools lead to damaged people!

I have 2 Craftsman sets I love, but Wal-Mart carries a small Stanley set I keep looking at just for the JD in a small package... Not "top of the line" but good quality & company backs the tools.

Happy Tractoring!

 

[Woody_NH]

Now that is interesting. My 3320 wheel lugs are 7/8". Just finished reversing the wheels for which I got a new 1/2" drive deep 6 side socket. (my 42 year old craftsman's 7/8" deep socket split and they sent me a new one on the lifetime guarantee). Anyway I am surprised that the 3720 would have different size wheel lugs than my 3320.

Anyway a solid breaker bar and a 6" or more extension will help a lot.

 

[browns40]

Uh-oh,

Hope I didn't give wrong advice! If so, awful sorry! I'll see in the morning--was going by memory! Maybe it's just the 'hog wheel & loader bolts that were 15/16...

Thanks Woody!

PS: which tires do you have, & did you gain much width? I have the big R4s & am doing the front ones tomorrow, as the rears look to be minimal gain...

 

[Woody_NH]

My 300cx loader does have 15/16" bolts.

I have the 15-19.5 R4 tires that are loaded. I got a set of Aqua-Line chains for winter use and decided that just a little more clearance would be good. I gained only 1.6" overall but the extra 0.8" each side is plenty to make the chains work out. I also have uneven terrain and every bit of stability helps.

I did not swap the front. Doing so results in front being much wider than rear (8.8" gained on front swap). Loader manual advises to set front to same width as rear. With wide rear/narrow front the front is still slightly wider than rear at center of tread.

I was dubious about remounting the loaded rear tires but with a little help from my wife it was not a problem. Used a 5' crowbar with one end about halfway under the tire and a block on wood as a fulcrum to lift tire onto the flange with helper guiding the tire. Had break set, rotated wheel on flange to align holes, helper started bolts.

 

[Attila]

Thanks all! I got a nice Craftsmen bar and socket set. Made in the USA! The lugs were indeed 7/8"; haven't done the loader yet. Thanks too for the reminder to get an extension as well.

 

[BloomingtonMike]

Does torquing the wheels with an extension change the torque value? Seems to be a gain in leverage to me. Also which torque wrench should I get for the tractor - how many ft/lbs should I get with the wrench?

 

[Woody_NH]

The "extension" is between the socket and wrench to reach the recessed bolts and there is no change in leverage.

Now if the extension were to the length of the bar or wrench (like sliding a pipe over the end) then you would have more leverage and be "able" to apply more torque. If the bar is in fact a torque wrench with a dial, the readings would still be valid; it would just take less arm force to get the desired torque.

 

[Jeff_Indiana]

I would like to point out a couple of inaccuracies in the above posts:

1. The lug bolts on these tractors are *NOT* 7/8" head; they are 22 mm head. A 7/8" socket appears to fit, but is too loose and could break the socket and/or damage the bolt head.

2. Using an extension *DOES* affect the torque reading, if done improperly. The reason is that using an extension tends to deflect the extension towards one side, which distorts the true reading. You need to support the extension in the middle so that it stays in the center with no side deflection to get an accurate reading.

Of course, lug bolts are not critical for torque; most people do fine by just snugging them up tight. I wanted to point that out, as it does matter when torqueing up critical items, like head bolts.

Jeff