Soil Compaction

   / Soil Compaction #11  
I have an area of clay at my place and rototilled the area, added sand plus soil amendments just to plant grass. Over the course of about 8 years I noticed the grass got less and less and the weeds slowly taking over because weeds have a shallow root system. I tested the soil and it was naturally compacted from the clay working its way to the surface and then hardening from irrigation. I tried a number of core aerators and none of them would penetrate past about 2-3 inches.

I ended up rototilling the entire area, watering it to get the weeds to grow, and then hitting it with two courses of RoundUp. The next spring I rototilled the area again, raked out the roots, regraded and planted new grass seed.

Now comes the nuts part...I decided I never wanted to spend that much time on getting grass to grow again as it took nearly 6 months of work (in total) on weekends. So...I purchased an 84-inch wide Aerway aerator..and I aerate the grass once in the spring and once in the fall. $5600 to spend about 1 hour a year aerating grass. But, it's worth every penny when compared to the time I had to dedicate to redoing the area.

I also use "Soil Doctor" from Outside Pride that includes a liquid aerator. Between the physical aeration and the liquid treatment I have thick, grass with no weeds and the soil is slowly becoming more porous as the Soil Doctor contains microbes that breakdown the thatch and naturally compost it.

I do this to a 1/2 acre area.....I can't imagine treating the same types of problems caused by compaction on hundreds or thousands of acres.
 
   / Soil Compaction #12  
We planted some tillage radishes this year where we did some dirt work. Mostly where we scraped the dirt from to see it they will help break the ground up. No till is the best option to fight compaction. Less trips over the field.
 

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