solar power

   / solar power #31  
Dan's post got me thinking about the phrase "total system efficiency".

Like any energy system, you have to "follow the juice". On a tractor, you start with the maximum theoretical energy in a gallon of Diesel. Then you have the efficiency of the engine, then the transmission, then tractor, and finally you get energy "on the ground". All such measurements need units, such as HP or Watts.

For solar, you start with the energy of the sun on some amount of area. The panels then convert that to electricity, and that's already a pretty bad number along the lines of 10 to 15 percent. You now have DC. Then there is a box (single inverter) or boxes (micro inverters) that converts the panel's DC output to either AC that can go on the grid or DC that can charge batteries.

If you have batteries, there is the efficiency of charging, the efficiency of getting current out of the batteries, and then the DC to AC efficiency on the "back end" inverter.

Like any good technical thingie, you can go nuts with the details. I like to start out with the DC power output of the panels. Mine are rated 7.7KW, but when they are new you get a bit more (I've seen 8.5KW of _output_ from the panels around this time of year when the sun is 90 degrees on the panels and it's a low humidity day). The published DC power rating for a panel is set up for an "after 10 years of use" number driven by the 10 year warranty on the panels. The panels get a little less efficient each year, but they will have 25+ years of life. Between OC detail Geeks and paranoid Lawyers, is it any wonder this is too complex :laughing:. At any rate, the DC output of the panels is my starting point.

My inverter has a maximum efficiency of 96%, and I've seen it very close to this. Typical is around 94%. The output power is then off to the grid. You get better efficiencies at higher power outputs. Not unlike a tractor which is often most efficient when used to it's maximum ability.

So at a max output of 8 KW at 96% efficient, I loose 320 watts. But at a lower output of 2KW, my efficiency is worse at 93% but I only loose 140 watts. Note that efficiency very much changes with different manufactures and inverter architectures. My Fronius 10KW inverter has 3 parallel stages, so at low power only one is running, which helps with the efficiency. Efficiency also changes with temperature. In the winter time, I see the near 96% efficiency. At the peak of summer, that will go down a few percent because it's hot. Nothing is simple....:D

So for a battery system, I'd want to see the DC power out of the panels, and then add up the efficiency of the "DC to Battery charger" (easy to measure/know), the efficiency of "energy charged and stored in the batteries" (this seems like a hard one to figure out) and then the efficiency of the DC to AC inverter (this is also easy to measure).

The grid tie system will be cheaper and more efficient, but is worthless when it's dark. The battery "off grid" system will be more expensive and less efficient, but you have power whenever you want it (as long as the batteries have a charge in them).

Clear as mud?

Pete
 
   / solar power #32  
next year or 2 away. i will be doing a complete off grid setup for turning a 20x24 cabin into a live able home.

i will be looking at low wind speed, windmill generators.
a bank or 2 of batteries.
generator that will most likely be converted to LP gas. if not a bigger generator bought that runs on diesel. (though LP, will most likely be it)
and most likely some solar panels will be tossed into the mix.

well pump, A/C, lights, fans, tv, computer, microwave.

heating will be either wood, or a vent less wall LP gas heater.
water heater will be gas

at moment the cabin runs fairly good on i want to say a honda generator 3000watt unit. a full tank of gas last a little longer than a day.

but when batteries, wind mill generator, solar panels all get tossed into mix, a more expensive transfer switch will be put into place. to allow auto start of generator.

the problem with transfer switch, and battery charger, gets more complicated, when dealing with 4 different power sources (wind mill, solar panels, batteries, and generator)

it will be a very complex setup, with efficiency losses, but *shrugs* you do what ya gotta do. beyond winning the lottery. i am not to overly worried about efficiency loss. if i only loose 10% i would be happy and not complain as long as it all worked and i had enough power to do what needs to be done.
 
   / solar power #33  
We've lived with a small standalone solar & wind system since 1983. (generator backup)

If connection to the grid is easy, the only reason to go with a standalone system would be a philosophical desire. It is much more economical to finance a grid connect system. Batteries are the weakest link with a relatively short life span and with a grid connect you do not waste your excess power.

After saying that, there is an argument the other way. A standalone system will likely encourage the user to use less electricity and to be more efficient. (I'm not saying that this means a less comfortable life in any way)

------------------
One other point about output units. Panels and wind units are rated in watts (or kilowatts, megawatts) (the commercial unit 1200ft from my house is rated at 1.5MW, 1.5 million watts) People mistakenly state daily usage in watts while the correct unit is watt/hours. Example- a daily usage that averages a 10 amp draw of 120 volts equals an average 1200 watt usage 24 hrs a day. (amps x volts = watts) To find kWh (kilowatt hours) multiply 1200w x 24 hrs = 28,800 watt hours or 28.8kWh.

The same amperage with a 12 volt source would equal 2.8 kWh or one tenth the energy.

Loren
 
   / solar power #34  
but when batteries, wind mill generator, solar panels all get tossed into mix, a more expensive transfer switch will be put into place. to allow auto start of generator.

the problem with transfer switch, and battery charger, gets more complicated, when dealing with 4 different power sources (wind mill, solar panels, batteries, and generator)

Loren

What you are describing is about the same as my cabin. that is off grid.

If you are going most of the transfer will be done with you inverter.
It will be seamless start gen the inverter will switch load from battery's to the gen and switch if power is available to charge batteries.


Home power magazine is a great source of info.
Home Power Magazine: Solar | Wind | Water | Design | Build

Backwoods solar has alot of info in their catqalog
Backwoods Solar Electric Systems


the wind mill is something that i thought about but I didn't feel comfortable having it run for weeks or months at a time and not being able to shut it down. because we don't have winter access (this year the last we got up there was the week after thanksgiving.)

tom
 
   / solar power #35  
What about the newer dual inverters, that let you have a grid tie and or battery bank on the same system. if the batterys are full it feeds into the grid, grid goes down it powers your house.
 

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