Danno1
Veteran Member
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I got an AC hour meter fr McMaster-Carr and just wired it in parallel w the blower motor.
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I got an AC hour meter fr McMaster-Carr and just wired it in parallel w the blower motor.
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Solar radiant Heat
- Thread starter philbuilt
- Start date
- Views: 31060
Danno1,
Thanks, I ordered one on Friday $32.95
The temps are getting better.
top 163 Bottom 151, and the tank at end of the day 145
Currently I'm trying to catch up on all the other stuff that I've been procrastinating on. I finally bolted the new teeth on the 1260, put the trailer together for the kayak's, mowed the lawn and tested the new teeth. All I can say is WOW !!!. Next week end is me time and I'm going white water rafting
. Soon we will started the Radiant retro.
Phil
Thanks, I ordered one on Friday $32.95
The temps are getting better.
top 163 Bottom 151, and the tank at end of the day 145
Currently I'm trying to catch up on all the other stuff that I've been procrastinating on. I finally bolted the new teeth on the 1260, put the trailer together for the kayak's, mowed the lawn and tested the new teeth. All I can say is WOW !!!. Next week end is me time and I'm going white water rafting
. Soon we will started the Radiant retro.Phil
randydupree
New member
anything new?
randydupree,
No I haven't done much with the system. Work has been abundant to say the least but no complaints here.I did do the white water rafting so here is a picture of that. The CFS was 8000 and this spot was called "May-tag" river Kennebec
I am installing the pumps and manifold for the 3 zone radiant floor heat. I'll try and post some pics of that tonight.
Phil
No I haven't done much with the system. Work has been abundant to say the least but no complaints here.I did do the white water rafting so here is a picture of that. The CFS was 8000 and this spot was called "May-tag" river Kennebec
I am installing the pumps and manifold for the 3 zone radiant floor heat. I'll try and post some pics of that tonight.
Phil
Now I have a question that maybe you all can shed some light on why it won't work. My plan was to put the radiant tubing under the floor in the basement between the floor joist. leave an 1-1/2" space and insulate with celotec.
Now I'm thinking that I could remove my pergo floor on top and use 5/8" Sheetrock strips as filler between the rows of pex tube then put the floor back on top. My thoughts are the engineered floor would distribute the weight and the Sheetrock would work.
What do you think?
Also I heard the fed tax credit is back for thermal solar.up to $2500.00
And today I just completed the Maine state certification class on installation of Solar thermal heat. Now I can get the Maine rebate as well. $2000.00
Phil
Now I'm thinking that I could remove my pergo floor on top and use 5/8" Sheetrock strips as filler between the rows of pex tube then put the floor back on top. My thoughts are the engineered floor would distribute the weight and the Sheetrock would work.
What do you think?
Also I heard the fed tax credit is back for thermal solar.
up to $2500.00And today I just completed the Maine state certification class on installation of Solar thermal heat. Now I can get the Maine rebate as well. $2000.00
Phil
RonMar
Elite Member
I think your floating floor would eventually crush the sheetrock to dust... I saw an interesting radiant installation at an acquaintenaces new house. It consisted of two 3.5" wide strips of 9/16 ply with gap between them for a pex line to be ran. These 2 parallel strips of ply were joined across the botom by a thin sheet of aluminum that was basically stapled to the bottom of the strips for a total width of about 14.5". The aluminum was to conduct and help distribute the heat from the tube. So basically you have a layer of aluminum sheet across the entire floor, with plywood strips on top and pex running between the strips. There were also milled corners, and the whole thing went down on the sub floor and was assembled kind of like putting together a model railroad set. Once it is down, the pex was hammered into it with a mallet and block. Then your pad and floor or carpet pad and carpet, or real hardwood were placed right over it, of course being carefull not to hole the pex with any fasteners. It was layed out so that the hot water entered the room, flowed around the outside perimeter, then crisscrossed the floor before exiting. 200' per heat loop, with the pex lines spaced at the apparent magic number of 7" apart from each other...
ampsucker
Platinum Member
sorry, philbuilt, i totally don't get what you are describing in your last post. why not put the pex between the floor joists in the basement, then insulate as usual? you think it would be easier or better to rip out the floor above and lay sheetrock or some other spacing material between the pex lines and then floor over it? maybe just not understanding, but i think running between the joists from below would be much better and easier. i would only build up a floor above if i didn't have access to the underside (slab on grade or nasty crawlspace that's hard to work in, etc.). raising the floor a couple of inches is going to mess up all your door threashholds, baseboard trim, etc and i don't see a performance advantage.
normally, you run the heat tubes between the joists up against the subfloor above (plywood), then insulate below the pex tubes to keep the heat up close to the floor above.
if you want to refloor the living space above, just leave the plywood subfloor in place and finish the actual floor with anything you want. just use fastners short enough they can't puncture you heat tubes.
i would not, under any circumstance, put drywall down as something to be walked on. as posted above, it will crack and turn to dust.
nice job on the copper control valve install. looks good.
to ronmar, i've heard between 6" and 12" is the magic spacing for the tubing. closer spacing near an outside wall or window or run the first loop of hottest water around the outside as your friend did. i've not heard anything magic about 7" spacing. if your joists below are on 16" centers i could see 7" spacing giving you about 4 loops on a 32" width minus the space taken up by the joists themselves. but, if you are pouring a slab, i think you would need to do a heat gain calc to get optimum spacing or just size your pump appropriately to get the heat gain you need. i like the idea of the aluminum foil as an aid to conductance. i think some type of conductor system would help you get faster response from the system and keep the floor temp a little more even throughout the space. just make sure your conductor is well insulated from outside walls so you don't loose what you gain.
amp
normally, you run the heat tubes between the joists up against the subfloor above (plywood), then insulate below the pex tubes to keep the heat up close to the floor above.
if you want to refloor the living space above, just leave the plywood subfloor in place and finish the actual floor with anything you want. just use fastners short enough they can't puncture you heat tubes.
i would not, under any circumstance, put drywall down as something to be walked on. as posted above, it will crack and turn to dust.
nice job on the copper control valve install. looks good.
to ronmar, i've heard between 6" and 12" is the magic spacing for the tubing. closer spacing near an outside wall or window or run the first loop of hottest water around the outside as your friend did. i've not heard anything magic about 7" spacing. if your joists below are on 16" centers i could see 7" spacing giving you about 4 loops on a 32" width minus the space taken up by the joists themselves. but, if you are pouring a slab, i think you would need to do a heat gain calc to get optimum spacing or just size your pump appropriately to get the heat gain you need. i like the idea of the aluminum foil as an aid to conductance. i think some type of conductor system would help you get faster response from the system and keep the floor temp a little more even throughout the space. just make sure your conductor is well insulated from outside walls so you don't loose what you gain.
amp
czechsonofagun
Elite Member
Cool picture, there is nothing like WW rush. I did C1 in my old country up to WW5.
RonMar,
My original plan is to put the tube under the floor. here is the reason to do it on top. We built the place on a "as we could afford basis" This part of the house was a mobile home 14x70. all the walls and roof are gone. The frame and floor remain inplace with an additional 3/4" plywood on top then pergo. The floor is also 5/8" lower than the other 3 additions. Mobile floors crown down to the outer walls. Wife wants them level. I figuered that I could kill 2 birds at one time. I did think that the sheetrock would crush as well but, it was worth asking what others thought.
ampsucker,
I will do it as usual under the floor. The spacing that Radiantec suggested is 10" with aluminum plates. A space of 2" and insulate. I will use 1/2" celotec then spray with expandable foam.
My thought on the sheetrock was it would help hold heat longer and distrobute more even though the Pergo.
My original plan is to put the tube under the floor. here is the reason to do it on top. We built the place on a "as we could afford basis" This part of the house was a mobile home 14x70. all the walls and roof are gone. The frame and floor remain inplace with an additional 3/4" plywood on top then pergo. The floor is also 5/8" lower than the other 3 additions. Mobile floors crown down to the outer walls. Wife wants them level. I figuered that I could kill 2 birds at one time. I did think that the sheetrock would crush as well but, it was worth asking what others thought.
ampsucker,
I will do it as usual under the floor. The spacing that Radiantec suggested is 10" with aluminum plates. A space of 2" and insulate. I will use 1/2" celotec then spray with expandable foam.
My thought on the sheetrock was it would help hold heat longer and distrobute more even though the Pergo.
