Solid Side Utility Trailers

[CompactTractorFan]

OK, so now that we got the truck down. I'm moving in to the trailer phase. No, not right now, but sometime in the future...

I've been looking at trailers to preform tractor hauling duties among many other tasks. This might include hauling bulk materials sometime in the future. I have been looking at "solid side" tandem axle utility trailers. I really like the desgin of the H&H trailers. They have a lot of nice features and options. I have a few questions:

1. Does anyone own one of these H&H trailers?

2. Any other manufacturers that offer solid sides to consider?

3. What size would be best? I was thinking of a 16' with a 7k GVWR. That should be plenty big, right?

4. I was wondering about tie down points for the tractor...There are "mini D rings" standard on the H&H, but they are only rated for 750 lbs. Would installing anchors like this work?

Buyers Rope Ring Heavy-Duty Recessed, 360ｰ Rotating, 2000-Lb. Capacity, Model# B901 | Rope Rings | Northern Tool + Equipment


Thanks for any input you can provide! :thumbsup:

 

[Diamondpilot]

16' 7K will be fine but for about $100 more you can usually go to a 18' and there is a big big difference between a 16' and 18' trailer.

As for them tie downs skip them unless you have proper support under the wood floor or a really strong steel floor.

What we use around here is lifting rings bolted down though the cross members. They are rated to lift X weight and are simple to install with one 5/8" hole per tie down. I also use boat shackles from time to time.

The first is a boat shackle and the second is a lifting ring.

Chris

 

[sparc]

16' 7K will be fine but for about $100 more you can usually go to a 18' and there is a big big difference between a 16' and 18' trailer.

As for them tie downs skip them unless you have proper support under the wood floor or a really strong steel floor.

What we use around here is lifting rings bolted down though the cross members. They are rated to lift X weight and are simple to install with one 5/8" hole per tie down. I also use boat shackles from time to time.

The first is a boat shackle and the second is a lifting ring.

Chris

The screw pin shackle looks good, but don't buy ones made in china. Many places I work have banned them because they are inferior. Stick with the American made name brands like Crosby to name just one. As far as the shoulder eye bolt they are OK for lifting but be aware that they get de-rated when used in other than a straight vertical pick. At 45 deg the rating drops to half and any angle less than that is commonly not recommended for lifting purposes. Now your using it for a tie down but how does the eyebolt know that? Also, an eyebolt should only be loaded in line with the eye, not at an angle if that makes sense. Any angular pull greatly reduces the rated capacity. My opinion is if its not good for rigging its not good for any other use, but that's just me I guess. A Hoist Ring now is a different story, and much more expensive. But a hoist ring will swivel to keep itself aligned with the direction of pull, its rating is not reduced when used at an angle and you can't side load it because it swivels. If you can afford hoist rings for your tie downs they are the best.

Here is a link to one hoist ring manufacturer.
Hoist Rings & Lifting Points | American Drill Bushing

 

[schmism]

What we use around here is lifting rings bolted down though the cross members. They are rated to lift X weight and are simple to install with one 5/8" hole per tie down.
Chris

NOTE: the lifting Eyes are only rated for capacity with 1.5 times the bolt shank threaded into an item or backed with a nut.

You can not simply tap the steal frame/cross member and thread the shank in and expect it to hold its rated value.

Additionally they are not rated to pull in a direction not inline with the O. Which is why many locations that use lifting eyes are moving to the swivel versions. (which solve the "out of plane" pull issue)

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yea, we mount them in the cross members with nuts and lock washers. I use the 5/8" version which are rated at something like 3,000# each at a 45 deg angle and twice that strait pull.

Chris

 

[Whatswrong]

As for them tie downs skip them unless you have proper support under the wood floor or a really strong steel floor.
I totally agree just a couple weeks ago a friend had a light duty trailer at work to haul home some empty crates I started to strap them down with those on a wood floor it started lifting the floor, fortunatly there were other places in the frame to hook the straps so it could be tightened .I prefered the first position of the straps as it gave more of a downward pull .

 

[radioman]

I installed the large d rings in the floor of my 16' trailer for my BX.I chose the large d rings so I can slide my chain hooks thru. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with mini d rings.

16 foot is good size for me. I rarely want a 18ft space so its up to you what's your needs are.

 

[Barnone]

How about a dump trailer that can carry your tractor?

 

[yooper1]

No one seems to have mentioned this:

Have you thought about an ordinary flatbed trailer that you can put (build) temporary sides on to haul bulk loose material and then take them off and allow many many more uses for the trailer than a solid walled one?

There is a thread here in trans about the sides people are using:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/233334-show-your-trailer-sides.html

I would be leary of getting a solid wall (sides) trailer myself as it would limit it to having to load OVER a side wall. You could never set something in from the side with ease.

A trailer without sides will allow you to get lumber, cars / trucks if you tire of your first car, sheets of drywall, pallets of anything. A trailer with sides would make doing the above tasks hard .

my 2 cents

 

[CompactTractorFan]

Thanks for the replies guys!