smiley
Gold Member
This thread is in reference to a question I posted last fall -http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/372850-ford-2n-lift-arms-leaking.html?highlight=#post4629378 ,
I finally found time to get working on my 2n lift arms to repair the leaks. When I found out that the rear end has to be pulled apart to repair it, I thought that was a pretty dumb design and there's got to be a better way.
I pulled one side and here is how I made the repair and provided a way to tighten it should it ever loosen again.
1st - photo shows where I drilled and tapped the support plate for a set screw to prevent the pin from ever turning again.
2nd - photo shows the pin after cutting a groove and installing o-ring, there is also an o-ring on the end of the bolt that contacts the nut inside the housing thereby sealing the leak at 2 points.
3rd - photo shows the pin support plate chamfered to receive the o-ring. I used a large chamfering tool in a 1/2 " drill. A large drill bit would do the same thing.
4th - photo shows the axle housing chamfered to receive the other side of the o-ring.
5th - photo shows the inside of the axle housing where I cold chiseled out part of a flange that was leftover from the factory machining of the bolt hole and nut seat.
6th - photo shows where I welded a 1/2" piece of stock of the side of the nut. (welded stock on and cut length after) I did yank on it very hard in the vise to make sure it wouldn't break off when I got wrenching on it during installation.
7th photo - It doesn't show in the photo but nut is installed in the recess I cut out with the cold chisel in a previous( #5) photo. Also there is a star type lock washer under the nut that compresses and seals the o-ring on the end of the bolt.
I installed the pin and by using a jam nut on the regular nut to lock it and wrenched it into place then tightened the set screw to hopefully prevent it ever leaking again. If it ever should loosen. it can now be tightened from the outside and not have to yank the housings again.
I did check and I can back the pin off 6 1/2 turns in case the o-rings ever did start leaking so I could wrap a packing around the pin between the support plate and differential housing.
I will use washers to install the lift arms tight on the center bushings to make sure the arms rotate on the outside of the balls(lubricated) and not rotate the bushings on the pins.
I finally found time to get working on my 2n lift arms to repair the leaks. When I found out that the rear end has to be pulled apart to repair it, I thought that was a pretty dumb design and there's got to be a better way.
I pulled one side and here is how I made the repair and provided a way to tighten it should it ever loosen again.
1st - photo shows where I drilled and tapped the support plate for a set screw to prevent the pin from ever turning again.
2nd - photo shows the pin after cutting a groove and installing o-ring, there is also an o-ring on the end of the bolt that contacts the nut inside the housing thereby sealing the leak at 2 points.
3rd - photo shows the pin support plate chamfered to receive the o-ring. I used a large chamfering tool in a 1/2 " drill. A large drill bit would do the same thing.
4th - photo shows the axle housing chamfered to receive the other side of the o-ring.
5th - photo shows the inside of the axle housing where I cold chiseled out part of a flange that was leftover from the factory machining of the bolt hole and nut seat.
6th - photo shows where I welded a 1/2" piece of stock of the side of the nut. (welded stock on and cut length after) I did yank on it very hard in the vise to make sure it wouldn't break off when I got wrenching on it during installation.
7th photo - It doesn't show in the photo but nut is installed in the recess I cut out with the cold chisel in a previous( #5) photo. Also there is a star type lock washer under the nut that compresses and seals the o-ring on the end of the bolt.
I installed the pin and by using a jam nut on the regular nut to lock it and wrenched it into place then tightened the set screw to hopefully prevent it ever leaking again. If it ever should loosen. it can now be tightened from the outside and not have to yank the housings again.
I did check and I can back the pin off 6 1/2 turns in case the o-rings ever did start leaking so I could wrap a packing around the pin between the support plate and differential housing.
I will use washers to install the lift arms tight on the center bushings to make sure the arms rotate on the outside of the balls(lubricated) and not rotate the bushings on the pins.
