SoundGuy, TO-20 sticking break peddal

Paddy · Nov 20, 2004

SoundGuy or any one with ideaes. As told before, the clutch and break pedals were stuck in the down position. They could be released by hand by just pulling up. Both work interms of breaks soildly stop and clutch fully engages/disengages. I managed to fix the clutch by drilling a small hole in the casting that the main shaft goes through on both sides. Then applying a generous amount of heat via propain torch. I worked the pedal up and down many times. After a while, the clutch has worked fine for several months. Ever few weeks I give the hole another shot of oil. When complete I thought I might put a Zerk fitting to seal out the grime. I could shoot it with grease but, I doubt much flow would occure.

So...I have started the same process with the sticking break pedal. Appears a little beter. I can say I have not applied as much heat as the clutch. Not shure if what I'm doing could cause the housing to crack. And I should note that while the area was at maximum heat, the pedal even seamed to get worse. There is some formula as to add heat or cold depending on the the wall thickness. A thin walled ring, like a nut, needs heat and a thick walled needs cold.

I thought the arms that are clamped to the shaft might be rubbing against the housing so I loosened them and added oil. No drastic change. Next idea is to tap on the shaft, left them right. Shifting the shaft ever so slightly left and right. Just tring to get that oil I placed in the hole to to get further and further.

More Heat? Dangers in that?

Thanks for any ideas,

Patrick

Soundguy · Nov 21, 2004

While i don't have an fo-manual for the t0-20 I'm guesisng it uses bushings for the break and clutch shafts much int he same way the ford N does. I'd also guess that a bit of corrosion has formed on the shaft ( the bushings are bronze on the N.. ) All it will take is a tad bit of corosion. I guess pulling them and light sanding or buffing would be the definative fix.. however thin penetrating oil applied after a few minutes of heat should help it draw in pretty quick.

Heat is good about breaking free rust.. but as the stuff heats up.. the clearances actually close due to the metal expansion.. that's why it seems to get stiffer.

You might try an old trick that works on rusty stuck bolts. Take beeswax, or parafin wax.. even candle wax .. heat the joint nice and hot, and then liberally apply the wax... it should draw into the mating surfaces via capilary action, and then it will act as a dry lube.

Soundguy

Paddy · Nov 21, 2004

SoundGuy,

First, Thanks for all your help. I will try more heat first. For the clutch. I bet I sat there for 5 min on each side. And did this several times.

When you mention remove the shaft and sand, do you have to split the tractor? Or can you remove the break arms and slide it a few inches each way and clean? I have not noted any play as I have tapped with a hard plastic hammer on the shaft ends.

Have you seen my question posted on the Ford section about the Ford 758 BH? It's listed for $1200 and is mounted on a 600 series Ford. Though to me it looks like a 8N.

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2004

Do you have any pics? ( No I dind't see the message ). The 8n and 600 should have very different front sheet metal, with the 600 being similar to the NAA sheet metal.. etc.

The fergies are a bit different than the N's when it comes to the clutch and break arangements.. so I'm out of element on offering specific advice on your to-20. On an N we could pull a wheel and then break drum, and hub, and leave the axle trumpet and axle shaft attatched.. and no split. The clutch shaft, however.. would be a split item.

Me? I'd get them lubed with either the wax trick or the thin oil, and work them back and forth.. they ~should~ loosen up. Try heat.. then the thin spray oil.. let it cool.. then work it.. then reeat. Shouldn't take too many cycles of that to get it loosened up.

Soundguy

Paddy · Nov 22, 2004

SoundGuy,

It's not the tractor I was looking at, its the $1200 BH. Ford 758. They said they would sell seperately from the tractor. Do you know any thing about the BH? Or if you don't, where I might find out? I have posted here tractorbynet in different sections trying to get any imfo. I bet if this is a good price, it won't last long. I would love to have a BH when I get my tractor but, new is quite pricey. It does appear small/light.

Thanks,

Patrick

Soundguy · Nov 23, 2004

I'll see what I have on the 758 backhoe.

Soundguy

oliver28472 · Nov 23, 2004

You might post at ytmag.com. There are forums listed by brand name. Pretty good stuff there.

Paddy · Nov 23, 2004

SoundGuy,

Well, the break peddle releases enough it rolls easy on flat ground. Not all the way up but, not draging. Heat oil and more heat.

Also, I did buy the Ford BH 578. She has been worked. Theres a few things I will fix. The previous owner replaced the control valves that operate the stabilizing extensions. So it is kinda funky. I played with it at the tractor yard. I'm not good and can tell it will take some practice. Seamed all I could do is drag the tractor around!